Rubber Band Method

[bwatters]

Hi All,

First time using clear glass and it looks like I have problems!

I think this may be a combination of being too frugal on the epoxy and not having a Formica type strip on the form. It seems to be where there are small variations in the form plywood

Any thoughts on this one?

[kennym]

I don't think she is gonna survive, sorry.  I had one with a dime size spot at the fade, when using epon versamid glue(thinner) and it probably made a couple hundred shots before it exploded. Quite spectacular...

Someone will say drill it and try to shoot some glue of some sort in there but if I tried to fix it , I would be more inclined to carefully warm the glass til you can get a knife blade started, then gently warm it slowly and peel the glass off and sand the lam with 50 or 60 grit  and glue again(probably with a new glass).  IF YOU WANT TO TRY AND FIX IT . Chad Holm said he had fixed a few that way and was hunting with one when he came down once.

The thing about bands is you can pull tight on edges of form but not in center of limb so some folks put something down limb center to add pressure. The best thought I've seen on that is a piece of electric wire , the 3 wire with the tough plastic coating 12-2 with ground.

Good luck with her!

[Mad Max]

Trying to cut corners can cost you, most of us have done it.

Mule tape and a fire hose will work much better.
Mule tape   
https://www.amazon.com/2500-tensile-Polyester-Pull-Webbing/dp/B07X8DKY96


Fire hose ( 6 foot will work for all bows)
https://bigjimsbowcompany.com/product-category/bow-building/bow-building-tools/

You would need 1/2" steel pins

[bwatters]

Thanks guys!

I have noticed the last two I have tried off this new form with coloured glass had a small separation on one curve. I used a similar method to how is described above and managed to save those. Ill peel some more tape back tomorrow and see if the issue is just limited to the curves or near the riser fades as well.

[Crooked Stic]

I been thinking of going topless on my forms do they require a thicker pressure strip. I would think the edge pressure would be critical also or am I missing something??

[EvilDogBeast]

I made my first couple with rubber bands before switching to the topless method, and really wish I would have just started out that way.  Absolutely worth it.

Stic, my topside pressure strips are 0.063" 5052-H34 with a layer of 3M flash tape on the bow side (just in case).  The softer aluminum allows me to shape the strips to the fades by hand while the thickness prevents edge pressure.  I also put just enough air in the hose to make it round before strapping it down to keep it from rolling over the edges as it's being tightened down.

[Mad Max]

I made my first couple with rubber bands before switching to the topless method, and really wish I would have just started out that way.  Absolutely worth it.

Stic, my topside pressure strips are 0.063" 5052-H34 with a layer of 3M flash tape on the bow side (just in case).  The softer aluminum allows me to shape the strips to the fades by hand while the thickness prevents edge pressure.  I also put just enough air in the hose to make it round before strapping it down to keep it from rolling over the edges as it's being tightened down.

x2

[Kirkll]

Trying to cut corners can cost you, most of us have done it.

Mule tape and a fire hose will work much better.
Mule tape   
https://www.amazon.com/2500-tensile-Polyester-Pull-Webbing/dp/B07X8DKY96


Fire hose ( 6 foot will work for all bows)
https://bigjimsbowcompany.com/product-category/bow-building/bow-building-tools/

You would need 1/2" steel pins

That mule tape / fire hose system looks like a winner to me for a topless form. You would get nice even pressure.     

[Mad Max]

 

[onetone]

You can pressurize w/out a compressor. Good quality hand operated tire pump works just fine.