How do you Mark Limbs prior to shaping?

[derekdiruz]

Building bows lately, and struggling with inconsistency when it comes to laying out the bow limb efficiently, prior to shaping them. How do you do it that works for you?

Mainly, I'm currently working on hybrid longbows, that have a continual taper from fade to tip. Are you using a template? Freehand with a flexible yardstick? Just looking for options at what folks like and why.

[Crooked Stic]

I use a template of bamboo with a marked center and small holes drilled them center Mark the limb for line up thru the holes then mark on the taped limb the rough cut on bandsaw then smooth on edge sander to the line.

[derekdiruz]

Makes sense. What blade on the bandsaw? Carbide tipped? Bimetal?

I currently have been just using a poorly done Formica template and tracing- then using a 50 grit belt to take to the line.

[OldRawhide42]

I put tape on the limb and use a flexible straight edge. Then use a blade to cut the tape.  Then  take the unwanted tape off.

[Crooked Stic]

I buy all 6/10 VP Bimetal blades use them on just wood until they dull then use them to cut limbs.

[Jeff Freeman]

Glued to shape template on my Hybrid and two straight thin wood templates for my longbows. Tape on the glass surface of course. Plus I always mark the center line on both. JF

[JGR1269]

I layout a centerline and the limb profile on masking tape on the back glass prior to glue up. My form is built so the glass, lams, and riser cannot move during glue up. After I take it off the form I cut to 1/8” from the lines. I built hooks to slip over the ends of the limbs and string the bow to insure my centerline is true. Then I run it through my drum thickness sander on a sled I made to take it down to the lines. I get perfect straight tapers from the fadeouts to the tips every time. This also eliminates the need to clean the slag off the edges to square it up. 

[Crooked Stic]

Jon how about some pics of that process

[JGR1269]

I’ll take some pics next build. I’m building risers this week.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

I make 3 pieces takedown longbows. My riser pads are done on a mill and are square to the edges. Once both limbs are built and pads glued on the limbs, I clamp each limb to a table.top , side by side.  They should match and the tip ends have exact same curve. Any adjustments can be done by milling or sanding limb pads.

Then I bolt them to the riser. They then have to pass the table top test. Bow must set flat on the bell with no rock. If they rock, something is not square.

Then I tape the limbs,  lay the bow on its side and I have a laser that projects a line down the entire length of the bow, right through the riser bolt center lines. Mark the line on the taped up limb with a fine tip sharpie and layout the profile using a flexible straight  edge.

Cut with a carbide tipped table saw and then use a belt sander to get to the design line.

[Mad Max]

I make sure my form is straight and the glue surface is perfectly square to the sides.
My washers hold the bow stack on center for glue up.
I use tape on my fiberglass and make a centerline on it before glue up.
I print my width taper on 11" x 17" paper (all printer settings are important )
SEE PHOTO--I snip the corners off and line up all the lines and tape it together and punch holes every 4" down the centerline of the template.
After glue up I sand the extra smooth-on off with the edge sander and wood glue the template on the taped bow, lining up the centerlines threw the holes in the template. I also file the nocks to the string groves on the template.
I never have limb twist problems.

[Longcruise]

I do the same as Max.  I think we use the same program.  Print it, punch the centerline and glue to the tape.

[Stagmitis]

What program you all use?

[JGR1269]

I have a vinyl cutter/plotter with SignBlazer Pro software. It cuts my limb profile and centering holes out of sign vinyl and I apply it to the limbs over the centerline on my masking tape. I use this method for recurve limbs to get an accurate constant arc to the limb tips.

[Longcruise]

What program you all use?

https://cadstd.com/

There's a free version and a pro version.   The pro version has a few added features.  I used the free version for a couple years but upgraded it so I could do offsets.

[Kirkll]

The simplest and most accurate method ive used for years is to make pattern templates of your finished width profile out of formica. Or you could easily use linen phenolic if you don't have formica scraps.  When laying out the templates from center line. I drill 1/4" holes dead center for the location of the tip notches....

After checking your limbs for straightness, or marking a center line that is straight, and your tip notch locations on each end, i simply clamp the limb templates on the limbs, and use spray paint to spray the out line.

After that paint dries, i just use my edge sander to grind them to the painted out line a little bit wide. It's safer than using a band saw or table saw, and worth saving a few extra minutes to me....Just for the ooops! factor that can and will happen.

There are a few photos in this album showing the procedure that i use.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KxYM6HaNonvtWqW86

[Mad Max]

What program you all use?

https://cadstd.com/

There's a free version and a pro version.   The pro version has a few added features.  I used the free version for a couple years but upgraded it so I could do offsets.

Yep same one

[derekdiruz]

Thank you everyone. I was on the fence about asking this, as I'm doing OK as is, but glad I did. Plenty of different methods to end up at the same result. Definitely stuff to try and think on. Thank you!!

[Kirkll]

The one really nice thing about using a painted outline instead of masking tape is you don't have to mess with that masking tape mess and having it curl up on the edges as you sand it...I don't use much making tape at all any more.... If you clean up your glass with lacquer thinner before wrapping it in plastic going into the form, you don't have to mess with trying to remove that cooked on tape.... Once you try it like this, you'll never go back to using tape.... .02 cents

[Stagmitis]

Thanks for the replies!