Arrow selection for Dwyer Dauntless

[bluewinged46er]

Looking for some thoughts on this arrow setup for a Dwyer Dauntless. The numbers speak for themselves but the arrow shows very stiff both bare shaft and fletched. Anyone have experience with the Dauntless?  I would be open to thoughts on aluminum or wood if you have a setup that works well. Not sure I am sold on carbon for this bow.

[The Whittler]

I would leave the 600 long then tune from there. Aluminum try some 1816 long or 1916 long then tune. You might try different point weights also. Good luck and let us know how you do.

If your set on a certain point weight then the length of the arrow should determine what you end up with.

[bluewinged46er]

I would leave the 600 long then tune from there. Aluminum try some 1816 long or 1916 long then tune. You might try different point weights also. Good luck and let us know how you do.

If your set on a certain point weight then the length of the arrow should determine what you end up with.

Thanks, Alan. This is my first longbow, and I have never tuned a bow that was cut short of center. I thought the spine calculator got me close but frankly it was way off, or so it seems. I am inclined to take a look at a wood shaft or the aluminum shafts you suggested. I am a little tired of fiddling with the carbons. Seems like the smallest change in the shaft length or point weight has a dramatic impact.

[Steelhead]

Is it 44 pounds at your 27 inch draw or more like 41#s at your draw?

[rustyspike]

My setups are very close to yours. I pull about 26".

So with 45# @ 26" bow. I use 1916's (Easton Legacy) cut to 27.25" with a 125 grain field point. I have a couple bows in that weight range. Both re-curve and long bows. You may have to go with the Game Getters if you cant not find the Legacy's.

Rich K

[bluewinged46er]

Is it 44 pounds at your 27 inch draw or more like 41#s at your draw?

It is 44@28.

[rustyspike]

As Steel stated you are going to lose about 3# a inch of draw length.

Rich K.

[bluewinged46er]

As Steel stated you are going to lose about 3# a inch of draw length.

Rich K.

My expectation was that the calculator would take that into account given that you enter both the factory draw and your draw length.

[rustyspike]

Yea it does.

If you are still unsure. Call a dealer up (3 Rivers is a good place to start). Talk to a sales rep. Get a half doz. shafts. They will set you up. Easy. I you don't want to buy the tools & supplies let them build them for you. And if you are going to build them. Go with aluminum. The only special tool you will need is a fetching jig.

Look. When I first start doing this I was no different then you.

Rich K.

[Steelhead]

I  like 1816 or 1916 in aluminums at 41#s drawn 27 inches.I shoot around 40  pounds draw about 27.5 to 28 inches.Been shooting 1816s alot lately cut to 29 with 125 grain points typically.I could get a 1916 to work as well.Cut longer and play with field points from 125 up to 175 gr.

I did not know the Dauntless was cut out from center.Most hybrids are cut to center.

Is it 1/8th of an inch out from center?

[rustyspike]

Steel,

I do not think Dywer bows are cut to center. They do not say on there website. You would have to call them to find out for sure.

Rich K.

[Steelhead]

Very well could be true Rich.I have no idea.He made like 4 models.I had a his Defiant Flatbow  Mild R&D and his Original Longbow that was also mild R&D.I know that Original Longbow was cut out from center.

Was not sure about the Dautless or that little forward handle longbow.

Anyway its important know.Especially if its out from center IMO.A little more picky on spine.Certainly dont want the shaft to be too stiff.Thats an issue to avoid.Better off a little weak vs a little stiff.

[bluewinged46er]

Very well could be true Rich.I have no idea.He made like 4 models.I had a his Defiant Flatbow  Mild R&D and his Original Longbow that was also mild R&D.I know that Original Longbow was cut out from center.

Was not sure about the Dautless or that little forward handle longbow.

Anyway its important know.Especially if its out from center IMO.A little more picky on spine.Certainly dont want the shaft to be too stiff.Thats an issue to avoid.Better off a little weak vs a little stiff.

I was told it is cut 1/8 short of center, i.e. not cut to center and not past. Looking at the string centered on the limb's I believe that's the case.
 

[bluewinged46er]

I  like 1816 or 1916 in aluminums at 41#s drawn 27 inches.I shoot around 40  pounds draw about 27.5 to 28 inches.Been shooting 1816s alot lately cut to 29 with 125 grain points typically.I could get a 1916 to work as well.Cut longer and play with field points from 125 up to 175 gr.

That's a setup I may play around with. I tend to shoot heavier heads so I will start with the longer shafts.

[BUCKY]

I shoot a Kanati which is similar. I shoot #40@26 with a 27” gold tip trad 500 spine. I need 300 up front. I could shoot 600s but i like heavy arrows. Mine are 560 which is 14gpp