Internal footing jig?

[Maclean]

Does anyone know where to buy an internal footing jig for wood shafts?

My main reason for wanting to internally foot a shaft is for the added strength behind a heavy broadhead. Increased FOC is a secondary benefit as I get plenty of that with heavy broadheads.

There was a thread here years ago (2009 I think) about this. At the time a company called Braveheart Archery was making them and they were a sponsor. They're no longer a sponsor and I can't find any info on them.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

[Maclean]

I just did another web search and found one available from 3 Rivers.

Anyone use one of these?

[trad_bowhunter1965]

Check out Arrow-fix
https://www.arrow-fix.com/

[Kelly]

Are you talking about inserting a metal rod or a smaller hardwood rod inside the wood shaft on the point end?

[M60gunner]

I believe I got the jig from 3Rivers? Been a number of years. The drill that comes with the jig makes a hole about the diameter of a large finishing nail. The trick of course is knowing how much weight you need and material to use. I was going to use lead solder but that stuff is pricey these days. Hence, the big nails.

[Maclean]

Are you talking about inserting a metal rod or a smaller hardwood rod inside the wood shaft on the point end?

I'm talking about inserting a metal rod.

[Maclean]

Check out Arrow-fix
https://www.arrow-fix.com/

Thanks Blake. Have you had positive results with internal footings?

[dnovo]

I have one that I use sometimes.  It works well to add weight, but you are limited on how much. I found that a cut 16 penny galvanized was heavier than an 8 penny sinker at same length.  Also I don't believe it affects spine much at all in my experience.

[Orion]

I made my own several years ago and have used them. Can't really add that much weight.  I used brass rod. If memory serves, a couple of inches yielded about 50-60 grains.  Need to be careful inserting the rod.  Too much glue and it's easy to push out the sides/split the shaft.  Doesn't help strengthen the front of the shaft, IMO.  The arrow just breaks off at the juncture of the insert rather than directly behind the head. 

Hardwood footings, heavier heads and/or woody weights are a better solution IMO. 

[Maclean]

Ultimately I'm looking to strengthen the shaft behind the broadhead. I shoot heavy broadheads, and if there's breakage it's always right behind the broadhead.

I've heard of several different approaches to footing a wood shaft; hardwood 4 wing, external aluminum sleeve, internal metal rod. In most cases if there's breakage it's always right behind the footing.

Am I just chasing my tail on this problem?

[Orion]

Pretty much.  Right behind the head is where wood shafts almost always break.  Extend the footing (of any kind) and they break right behind it.

Aluminum is prone to bending or mushrooming right behind the head on a hard hit. Carbon is also prone to mushrooming on a very hard hit, but with an aluminum footing behind the head, they're almost indestructible.

[Maclean]

Thanks Jerry. For the sake of the discussion, if you had to shoot wood shafts, what would be your preferred method of footing with respect to strength?

[kevsurf]

What I do is use a 5/16 hardwood shaft spined 65# then have the front end 23/64 by 1.5”. There is nothing spliced on it’s the same hardwood so the larger point has more strength at the weakest point! (No pun intended)

[Maclean]

What I do is use a 5/16 hardwood shaft spined 65# then have the front end 23/64 by 1.5”. There is nothing spliced on it’s the same hardwood so the larger point has more strength at the weakest point! (No pun intended)

So do you start with a 23/64 shaft and turn it down or taper it to 5/16 except for the front 1.5"?

[Orion]

I like 4-point hardwood foots. Two-point probably work as well, but they don't look as good, imo.  I've also accepted the fact that wood is going to break occasionally.  I''ve never had a wood shaft break off behind the point on game, at least not until aftter it's done it's job.  It only happens stump shooting and when I make a bad shot on a 3-D target.  For really big critters, like moose, I do switch to a hardwood shaft like birch, ash or maple.  Never tried hickory, but I'm sure it would work just as well. 

[Wudstix]

How would doing an internal footing work on footed shaft?
 

[Orion]

Wud.  Very little to be gained by that.  Since the hardwood wood foot is relatively heavy, one would only gain 20-30 grains by inserting a couple of inches of brass or steel 1/8-inch rod. (Remember, one is removing an eighth inch core of hardwood to insert the rod.) Shaft would still be most likely to break behind the inserted footing, which is about where the points would start/end, depending on perspective. 

[Wudstix]

Thanks!!!
 

[Maclean]

A hardwood footed shaft seems the most logical. If there's breakage it's going to be at the weak spot on the shaft,  (point taper, or point where any footing ends) and since the hardwood footing seems to be longer than most other types, more shaft material "should" stay with the broadhead in the event of breakage.

The sole intended purpose of this arrow shaft is for big game, specifically elk.

[trad_bowhunter1965]

Check out Arrow-fix
https://www.arrow-fix.com/

Thanks Blake. Have you had positive results with internal footings?

Thom I haven’t used the Footing jig but I have used the Arrow-fix jig a bunch it’s worth it weight in gold for fixing broken wood arrows.