Sealer/finish for bow? Bowyers…

[RedShaft]

I reworked a 3pc takedown. Customized the grip and it’s all done and ready to be sealed.
You bowyers or do it yourselfers..
please give me a suggestion on finishes to use. We have a sprayer at work. We have some vinyl sealer and lacquer. I’m not sure if they would work well on my riser or not?
If not give me some suggestions on what to use and exactly how to do it so I don’t screw it up.

[Orion]

I'[m not familiar with exotic finishes that require mixing, but have always had good results with Helmsman spar urethane or Verithane in a rattle can or Birchwood Casey gunstock finish.  I usually spray about three, maybe 4 light coats with the rattle cans.  I wet sand very lightly with 400 grit after the second and third coat.  Usually put on about 6-8 coats of Birchwood Casey by rubbing it on with my fingers, a drop or two at a time.  I start wet sanding after the third coat or so. 

[Hud]

For the bows that I make, and ones that need refinishing, I use a small bottle of Birchwood Casey, it is my go to product. It is very durable, and easy to apply, or touch-up later. Their true-oil is used to finish, or refinish gun stocks. It is very durable and drys fast, depending on the humidity and temperature.  I poke a hole in the seal under the cap to dispense a few drops on a 2" square patches used to clean gun barrels. I can clean the patches with paint thinner, then rinsed and dry. Always cover the small hole in the seal on the bottle with kitchen type food wrap. It has a limited shelf life otherwise. You can use propane to spray into the partially used bottle to force out the air, if your going to save the bottle for later use.  I wear black Nytril Gloves from Home Depot when apply, or sanding. I also use scouring pads, before finishing instead of extra fine sand paper. The pads do not leave scratches. You can wash the pads as they are recycled plastic and can be shaken, or washed to remove dust. They are plastic without any sponge on one side. The pads do not scratch the wood or between coats or when removing a glossy finish before re-coating. I usually put on 5-6 coats by hand. They usually dry within an hour.  The Scotch Brite pads are green and thin, up to 1/2 inch thick. It is important to remove any dust, or imperfections prior to re-coating. If you want a high gloss finish, add more coats. If you prefer a mat finish, use the fine fiber pads to lightly remove the gloss then apply a past wax. It is a good idea to test before doing.

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/

https://www.truevalue.com/scouring-pads-8-pk?CID=local_ecommerce&srsltid=AfmBOopKP5iwMbA6icR7APxOgNulCHZxpWDsIydFBJdour_WYvSnQjMEO1Y

[Longcruise]

Try this in a clear matte finish.

https://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-wheel-paint

The same thing can be had by Duplicolor.

Available at most any auto parts stores.  I get it at Autozone and O'Reilly.

[Richard Korte]

I always use Mas marine epoxy to fill the pores and seal the riser wood. Any two part epoxy will do, but I used Mas epoxy on 6 of the boats I’ve built so I’m used to it and its’ never failed me. I usually sand the riser to 400 grit and blow off the dust with an air compressor. I mix a small amount.....using the pumps that are sold when you buy the epoxy.....stir well and apply the epoxy with a one inch disposable foam brush. Apply it nice and smooth, and don’t worry if you get some on the glass.....you can always sand it off when the epoxy cures. Now wait for the epoxy to harden to the point of masking tape sticky.....about 50 minutes for Mas..depending on the temperature. Then give it another coat, and another, and a final coat, 4 coats should be enough. Don’t let it harden completely between coats.....it should be masking tape sticky when you apply each coat. I usually wait two days for the epoxy to cure before sanding. Then sand with 220-320-400, but DO NOT sand thru the epoxy coats! Be careful....go slow..take your time. Then spray on any finish you like.....I just use Minwax oil based poly in a rattle can, but sometimes K2 Spray Max for a hard, high gloss finish. (On line or auto paint store) Have fun!    Richard

[RedShaft]

Thank you men.

[RedShaft]

I went with tru oil.
im on the 4th coat. The thing looks amazing so far. But… it’s extremely glossy. like high gloss.
I will need to get it to a satin or matte finish on the last coat. I will have to try fine scrubbing and wax tip. Or any other ideas?