Yet another template sander conversion-questions?

[derekdiruz]

Ohhhh yeah I absolutely understand. My oscillating conversion is purely a stop gap until I have the guide machined. My edge sander is a tank in comparison to this 4 amp sander. That oscillated I just used the other day for the first time and it took 10-15 min to template a riser. All I was thinking is how much faster it would be on the edge sander LOL

[Kirkll]

Here is my set up/

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DrCQuTMjoeeTRoYQ7

[Mad Max]

Here is my set up/

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DrCQuTMjoeeTRoYQ7

What is that, a Visqueen plastic curtain behind the aluminum plate??
Nice setup

[Mad Max]

A lot of hours working out all the bugs on these templates.
Need to have them CNC if I want to go forward.

[derekdiruz]

Very nice- I have a Cnc set up from my furniture building. What did you design that with? That’s the primary reason I wanted to set up a solid template sander, because I Cnc cut my form, Cnc cut my 3 piece risers, and use my Cnc thus far for every jig I’ve made in my shop. Figured an edge sander was the easiest way to “Cnc” a one piece riser- as I Cnc cut direct fitment jigs for my form.

[Mad Max]

I started CAD drawing on a DOS program back in the early 90's and kept using it until 2 years ago.
Now I'm using a free program CadStd Pro 3.7.7

Make your Templates with something that is stable, I got some Plexiglass but it has waves in it so I sanded it flat by holding it to the edge sander, you can run it threw the thickness sander for the other side but you get snipe on each end with a thickness sander so you need 6" on each side to cut the snipe off.  Holding the other side to the edge sander would make it flat too but not parallel, now we are splitting hairs but still should work just fine.
Screw several layers of plywood to the template and pattern sand them to the plexiglass and your set.

I used sheet rock screws

[derekdiruz]

So, I had a donut machined that'll serve as a rub collar. it's 0.25" thick plate that a 4.608" circle was cut out of, as that's the diameter of my drive drum with a 50 grit belt on it. This will be on my grizzly edge sander.

My question is, for those that have done this sort of conversion, I'll be affixing the donut to a plate that'll serve as a table - and the table is going to be mounted to the motor mounts (essentially). What size plate do you think is adequate? Looking at .25" 12x16 6061 aluminum. Thoughts? Thicker? Wider? I'm not particularly planning to be templating 30" one piece risers, but heck if I know what's in the future. What did you use?

[Mad Max]

I would go thicker than 1/4"
You need 8" or so in front of the rub collar for your work table and I would go 24" left to right for the work table.

[derekdiruz]

This is why I ask! Lol thank you!

[Mad Max]

This is why I ask! Lol thank you!

 

[Kirkll]

Here is my set up/

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DrCQuTMjoeeTRoYQ7

What is that, a Visqueen plastic curtain behind the aluminum plate??
Nice setup

That is my arctic curtain that I put up from November to about April-May when things warm up again. My shop is 36x36’ two stories high with a loft, and has  a 12’x24’ machine shop attached.  I have a 12x12’ insulated room, a 12x12’ tool room, and a small spray booth on the first floor. My ceiling height is 10’ and I only heat a 24x24 area in the winter by hanging the arctic curtains.

Unfortunately…. The edge sander sets right where the curtain line is, and I like where it sets. So I cut the curtain around it , and there is a flap I can open up to use the full length of the sander.   This plastic is seriously heavy 10 mill plastic. It’s a commercial ground cover they use under concrete slabs. A 6’ long roll of this stuff weighs over 200 pounds, and it’s REAL expensive.

Here are some better pictures of my messy shop.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pVDDXPeY3nPaECCT8

[Mad Max]

 

[Kirkll]

I started CAD drawing on a DOS program back in the early 90's and kept using it until 2 years ago.
Now I'm using a free program CadStd Pro 3.7.7

Make your Templates with something that is stable, I got some Plexiglass but it has waves in it so I sanded it flat by holding it to the edge sander, you can run it threw the thickness sander for the other side but you get snipe on each end with a thickness sander so you need 6" on each side to cut the snipe off.  Holding the other side to the edge sander would make it flat too but not parallel, now we are splitting hairs but still should work just fine.
Screw several layers of plywood to the template and pattern sand them to the plexiglass and your set.

I used sheet rock screws

I think there are much better products to use for pattern sanding templates. There are composite products that are more durable like a G-10 FRP that isn't quite as dense or expensive. There are canvas lay ups with glass that are not real pretty that are really durable. The best is linen Micarta.    The Plexy glass is too soft and scores easily if used a bunch and doesn't hold up well to any heat.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125625376240?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&toolid=10050&campid=5338675951&customid=16997310610810191510218531193008005&amdata=enc%3A1S55uV70RTRiNeaEUaEr0gw21

If you want to go cheaper... I would use a Polycarbonate rather than plexi glass. Much tougher stuff....

 My footing jigs use a 1/4" thick piece of linen micarta like was posted above where the bearing guides run, and then i added a couple layers of 3/8" melamine. i have i've used these jigs for years with no wear.    food for thought...

These were custom built for me from a pattern, and cut out on a CNC by Brandon Stahl from Rose Oak Creations. Unfortunately he doesn't build them any more, and got out of building bows too.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HMY7bQrfz75Zuq57

If someone could come up with a good product. Selling these footing jigs would be pretty easy. All footing jigs dont work on different shape risers.    I would buy some more myself if they were well made from micarta.     Kirk

[Mad Max]

I agree but the $ for me was to much.
It's just a hobby for me and I'm not sure I will build any more, maybe a few.
Prices on everything Archery are up to high for me. 

Last build I did was 8 months ago.

[derekdiruz]

So, I made some progress on this.

I had a donut of steel machined, it's essentially the width of the drum with 60 grit sandpaper on it. I had my machinist bore a center hole about .010 larger than the shaft diameter of my motor. Also 2 holes 1/4-20 that are tapped so I can thread from below.

Then I had a steel plate cut. The plate is 1/4" steel, 18x24 and was plasma cut with a channel in it, about .25" larger than the diameter of the output shaft, and with about an inch of room front to back more than I needed.

I drilled holes to mount it to the motor mount after the fact. As a whole, I've tested it a bit and I think I may adjust the way it's mounted. It's on the motor mounts rather than mounted to the motor, which I think would help. I've made some quick legs to stabilize it, but I think they'd be significantly less important with it mounted to the motor. I'll change some things around here soon, but for now she lives and works! Here are some pictures.

[Crooked Stic]

That ought to work really well. The only thing I done differnt maybe was had my table machined flat.  But if it's pretty flat then no problems. Some guys even use alum. for a table. Mine is mounted on the motor with three bolts and has no issues so far.

[Mad Max]

Table is a little thin (1/4") for my liking.
Nice build

What did it cost you?

Add this to the build alongs at the top of the page for the future.

[Kirkll]

That should work just fine. just watch your up and down on the sand paper adjustment closely. if it drops down over the lip of your guide you can easily screw up your pattern and your work.  I added extra thickness to my pattern bases so it lifts the piece i'm sanding higher off the table, and i don't need to run my paper down so close to the bearing, or guide in your case....  .02 cents worth.   Kirk

Another thought.... after you are all set up get another 3/4" top you can put over the steel table that has a formica surface that is just held in place with a clamp. This allows you to use that as an edge sanding table above the pattern guide for free hand work for shaping riser fades or whatever.....Food for thought.....

https://photos.app.goo.gl/scKVXq36q4yoH22w6

[derekdiruz]

Thanks all, As a whole, it cost me $125 - for the plate to be plasma cut & purchased. Relatively lucky, my friend is a machinist in a local shop & has been trading me quite a bit of work, in exchange for a bow at a later date lol.

I will agree, the paper is a mild concern being that low to the bushing, but as a whole, I went with a perfect donut so I can rotate as needed, if needed.

1/4", while I thought would be too small, with supporting legs and some additional bracing if needed, I can't fathom it won't be strong enough or hold shape. I've played around a bit with it & no issues I can foresee. I'm going to be really putting her to use this week, as I've been designing my templates on my CNC software & plan to cut them tomorrow morning. Future plans though, are to rebuild my couple of 1 piece forms on my CNC, so I can directly map & cut a riser template from the form. I do love my CNC lol

[Mad Max]

Nice