TOPLESS

[Kirkll]

For some, this wouldn't matter, but topless allows both major and minor changes in length shapes of risers.  On one ASL form I've varied riser length from 13 to 17 inches.   Only that changes is pressure strip(s).

I have a one piece long bow form with a hinged top that i just over sized the center section on top for using different riser configurations on. I just strap everything down with heavy zip ties, put the hose over it, close the form and put two hinge pins in it. takes about 10 minutes tops. For different sized risers i just use wedges over the hose in the belly ramp areas. No muss, no fuss. 

BTW....I do throw a pipe clamp in the center instead of adding more straps..... You guys can have your topless forms...

[yimbow]

I haven’t made as many bows as a lot of guys that are commenting here, and I guarantee some of them have forgotten more than I know about bow building. Having said that, I changed my forms to topless about 5 years ago and have never looked back. I use metal pins and mule tape. I’m pretty careful during a build, and there’s definitely a bit of a learning curve, but I’ve not had those gaps at the fade-outs that have ruined a few bows when using the 2 piece form. Yes, it takes a little longer but smooth-on gives me plenty of time. It works for me but your results may be different

[onetone]

 

[Miguel Gasso]

I use topless Forms for Prototypes and Bows, that i don't build that often.
Saves space, but it's inconvenient. Takes a lot more Time, than using a Form with top.
For Heat, i use Silicone Heat Strips.

Hi B-JS,
you can publisch a link to thoses silicon heat stripes?

Thanks in advance

[B-JS]

Got them from China.
https://keenovo.store/collections/standard-keenovo-silicone-heaters

[Miguel Gasso]

Got them from China.
https://keenovo.store/collections/standard-keenovo-silicone-heaters

Thanks a lot, I have found before something similar but not the sizes i need. This supplier hits my needs!!!

[Kirkll]

Got them from China.
https://keenovo.store/collections/standard-keenovo-silicone-heaters

I'm curious how many bows you get out of these heat strips, and if you use them top and bottom of the limb in the form?

I used these many years ago made in USA and the longevity and warranty on them sucked. I actually sold them on my website for awhile until the company quit honoring the warranty. I had a lot of failures with these type heaters. Some would last longer than others with no pattern for longevity.     Kirk

[B-JS]

I have 2 Sets for Recurves and Longbow (45mm and 40mm)
The 45mm was allready used, when i got them.
The 40mm was bought there.

The 45mm Shows some wear, and a may replace IT in a couple of months.

I have them 3-4 years now.
But i don't build several bows a day/week.
So If used heavy duty, they may Not hold forever.

But they consume WAY less Energy than a heatbox.

I use one one both sides of the Form.

[onetone]

When you say “both sides of the form” does that mean they are applied to the form after the top and bottom of the form have been bolted together? If that’s how you do it, how are they held in place?

[Mad Max]

When you say “both sides of the form” does that mean they are applied to the form after the top and bottom of the form have been bolted together? If that’s how you do it, how are they held in place?

Next to the glass on both side.
German translation I guess did not come threw

[onetone]

So top and bottom, in the form, silicone under bottom glass and silicone over the top glass? Just trying to make sure I have the right picture of the process.

[B-JS]

Well, on both Sides of the bow IN the Form.
No native english speaker, sorry. 

From bottom to top.

Bottom of Form/1mm Rubber/Heatstripe/bow(wrapped in stretch-foil)/Heatstripe/1mm Rubber/Hose/Top of Form.

Held in place with washers at both Sides If the Form an some Straps for Initial Fixation before Hose and Pressure are applied.

[Mad Max]

So top and bottom, in the form, silicone under bottom glass and silicone over the top glass? Just trying to make sure I have the right picture of the process.

 

[Kirkll]

When we were using those silicone heaters years ago, everyone was using aluminum  pressure strips between the glass and the heaters above and below them. I also used a second Formica pressure strip between my air hose and heater to protect the silicone heater.

It’s actually not a bad way to go for a hobby builder. Sure beats cooking your forms to death in a hot box, and wrestling bow forms in and out of them.    Kirk

[B-JS]

Bodnik uses the same for their Bows.
I think they are a bit above Hobby-Level in Numbers.
But i don't know, how much bows they get out of one Set of Heat Stripes.

[onetone]

Thanks for the further explanation B-JS!

[B-JS]

How did you regulate them, Kirk?
On/Off or with a voltage/Power-Regulator?

[Kirkll]

How did you regulate them, Kirk?
On/Off or with a voltage/Power-Regulator?

The simplest way to regulate them was a Rheostat.  I used a simple dimmer switch wired in tandem with an AC outlet. But......Having an accurate probe thermometer was a must. Different length heat strips required different settings.....

The issue i had with them was durability. Using these under pressure requires a perfectly smooth surface and smooth pressure strips. I believe they use a small gage nichrome wire system embedded it the silicone.
Your mileage will vary a lot

[Mad Max]

I was hearing the heat strips were not lasting long enough.
Never used them myself

[onetone]

I don’t use them either.

The idea of having something spongy under and over the bow for the glue up makes me nervous.