2024 What did you do today

[dbeaver]

Glued up a new project Tuesday night and was able to knock the boogers off and get her tapered up.  Kennys modified r/d and I'm making it super long at 68" ntn just to play around, have a longer comfortable shooter for when friends come over who don't shoot often.   Usually there's a .003 taper but in this glue up I used and extra taper to get some thickness I needed rather than a parallel so I'm running a .004 taper rate on these lams interested to see the results.

[Kirkll]

“ Usually there's a .003 taper but in this glue up I used and extra taper to get some thickness I needed rather than a parallel so I'm running a .004 taper rate on these lams interested to see the results.”

I’ll be curious to see what your experience is with that… unless you ran that last taper in reverse bringing it down to .002 forward taper, it’s going to reduce your limb thickness farther out on the limb rather than increase it.

Between the extra limb length, and a faster taper rate, I’m afraid you may experIence some vertical stability issues with that particular limb design. Especially in lower draw weights… I could be wrong though…. 

Btw….. playing with reverse tapers is an interesting rabbit hole. I’ve played with this on light weight target limbs and eliminated tip wedges normally used on a static tip RC with good results… it adds needed thickness for stability at the base of the curl.

Kirk

[dbeaver]

Yes I'm curious as well.   Will be cautious that it doesn't end up whip ended, but as for stability I can see the possibility of the wonkiness when tugging the string up and down  I gained some confidence in elongation by reading a neat experimental thread by ForwardHandle.  He was messing with tip wedges and power lams on the kennym designs.   

I made the decision on the fly, that extra taper with extra epoxy made the raw blank stiffer than expected, so now here we are in the name of SCIENCE! I guess I should be getting better notes.   Someone should write a how to on how to keep a good bowyers notebook.

[Crooked Stic]

Modified R/D is that something new or maybe I missed it.

[dbeaver]

At least a few years old, it's on kennys website under his build along.  He threw an extra inch of reflex in at the tip of his regular r/d form.  A bit more aggressive, but keeps a really nice tight string angle at brace.   Almost a 'recurve' just by definition of the string touching the limbs. By you can slide a note card in there.

[Kirkll]

I use the butcher paper method myself. Every bow I get ready to lay up, I write the design, limb length, bow length, draw weight target @ 28”, and stack height calculation.

Then I mill the lams, tip wedges, and wedge noting material type. I always use 30” long  stock except on one piece bows where 36” are needed.

So by the time I get ready to mix my glue I have something like this on the top of my clean butcher paper.

  John Doe, Sas Hybrid, 60” Med limbs, R17- 50@28 target.  .290 , 40/40 BG, maple .0015, Aboo .0015, SC,  walnut W,  8” walnut TW. ( for clear glass with veneers I use 40/40 CG and veneer type) this will be my log entry after adding the actual draw weight.

After my lay up I take another fresh piece of butcher paper with wax on one side and put it over the one I just slopped epoxy all over and go again. This wax covered paper doesn’t stick to the epoxy well, and can be separated later. 

After I’ve got my limbs mounted and profiled using a limb template, and temp string notches, I put it on the scale and measure my rough draw weight, and write it on the butcher paper with “std profile” noted.   If I’m heavy I may narrow up the profile a bit and weight it again noting “narrow profile” .


This system works good because if you get busy, or side tracked, everything is still written down, and can be transferred to your bowyers log later.

Warning!  Once you have an inch of butcher paper built up, it’s time to peeel em off and log your entries….    

I built a spread sheet on excel for my log, and color code carbon applications or different limb designs. My logs go back to 2007 or 2008 now.  Of course I do not log all of my bows. Many of them are repeated draw weights and lengths. But it’s important to log the odd balls that you miss weight on, or make notes of “heavy” or “light” so you can adjust you stack a bit next time.  Noting different materials used is important too.      There’s about 5 cents worth….  Kirk

[Robyn Hode]

I’m tillering my next bow. A few years ago I printed off a red oak build along of 4est Trekker. I’m trying to build that bow but mine is 58 inches ntn. It’s 1 1/2 inches wide out to 6 inches then angled to the tips. Right now the tips are 1/2 inch wide. I’m shooting for 50 pounds, 45 pounds after it is shot in. I’m also making arrows for it. I buy Douglas Fir floor boards and cut the to 3/8 inch square dowels then plan them round.

[Robyn Hode]

Here’s the arrows. I’m still working on both.

[dbeaver]

Nice method for the arrows there.  You may have inspired me to do the same.

Last night I got to work on tips and grip. The limited height of my spindle sander has me wanting to get one of those drill attachments with a handle on one end for making the transitions between the forefinger and the web of the thumb all the way around to the thumb rest a lottle smoother and less cumbersome without the table in the way.   Anyone use these contraptions?

[derekdiruz]

Went to Kzoo yesterday… spoke with as many as I could. Saw Rosewood with a booth, and spoke with them a while. Picked the brain of bowyers like widow and stalker about their Cnc set ups for limbs and such… and now it has my wheels turning for jigs down the line.    Also saw one of kirks bows at the swap area… first time seeing one in person, and your craftsman ship is fantastic!

It was a fun expo- just doubt I return. Too long of a drive for me to just walk around vendors. Lol

[Kirkll]

Nice method for the arrows there.  You may have inspired me to do the same.

Last night I got to work on tips and grip. The limited height of my spindle sander has me wanting to get one of those drill attachments with a handle on one end for making the transitions between the forefinger and the web of the thumb all the way around to the thumb rest a lottle smoother and less cumbersome without the table in the way.   Anyone use these contraptions?

Ive contemplated taking the pivot table completely off my spindle sander for shaping riser grips, but never have....   The one i want to seriously try doing is mounting a spindle i can run 1.5" sleeves on in the top portion of my 80" edge sander drum.... I believe Big Jim has one set up like that that i saw photos of years ago....I'd like to know how he mounted it so it doesn't wobble. i rig like that on the edge sander would be excellent.

Kirk

[Crooked Stic]

I think Great Plains has a belt sander that has a smaller roller on one end. I have seen it in his videos o U tube. And has a FB page. He may just give you some ideas. It looks homemade or by a machinist.

[Kirkll]

I was thinking more of having a block of 1/2" thick aluminum machined to slide into the top of the drum on the motor end of my edge sander, and fixed with set screws tapped into the drum. and bore a hole dead center to mount the spindle shaft.... Of course you would have to mount the shaft before inserting it into the drum.

Possibly use a 3/8" steel spindle like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/scottchen-PRO-Spindle-Adaptor-Sandpaper/dp/B098WP4DDM/ref=asc_df_B098WP4DDM&mcid=2d182f10b3e83b8796e7d2d9dd8c810c?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80127041604596&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583726559102759&psc=1

But..... Everything would have to be done very precise or that thing would wobble BIG time.

[Crooked Stic]

A good machinist could do it prolly have to remove your drum to get it done.
I go thru at least 1 sleeve on each riser. Thinking a belt would outlast the sleeves.

[OldRawhide42]

Kirk I have that spindle . I use it on my drill press.

[Kirkll]

A good machinist could do it prolly have to remove your drum to get it done.
I go thru at least 1 sleeve on each riser. Thinking a belt would outlast the sleeves.

Another idea would be laminating a couple pieces of 3/8” G-10 together, bore a center hole &  rough out the circle shape on the band saw with a pivot jig. then take the same jig to the edge sander to sand it to size to fit the drum. Using G-10 would be stronger than aluminum and I could mill it myself. This would save pulling the drum and going to the machinists shop…. 

I bought a case of 1.5” 36 grit sleeves from Super Grit, and use those to rough shape the throat and thumb ledge.  That heavy grit lasts longer and cuts the dense hardwood and g-10 easier.  Then I use a 50 grit sleeve to remove the 36 grit sanding marks. I had to buy a full case of those 36 grit sleeves to get them made for me.

[dbeaver]

I have the supergrit 36 grit zirconium on the spindle and it is wild how much it cuts and how sharp it is in general.  Pair it with an abrasive cleaning stick and it will get a lot done for ya.

[kennym]

Also amazing , the amount of hide 36 grit will take off in a single pass 

[Kirkll]

Also amazing , the amount of hide 36 grit will take off in a single pass 

Amen brutha…. Amen… I got a few divots out of my knuckles to prove it too.

  I used 36 grit on my drum sander for years, then this last big roll I bought I went to 40 grit for milling lams…. Lots of tooth on those lams. The stuff cleans up well with big eraser too, and rarely burns the wood.   But…. There are those oily woods that clog up the best paper to the point you can’t even clean it with a wire brush.

[Crooked Stic]

You all better watch out no

w. I learned how to post pics off my phone. You prolly know this guy.