2024 What did you do today

[Kirkll]

Cool looking risers Bryan.  Just be careful to cap all grain run out on the back of your riser with overlays. that Wenge, paduke, and even the walnut can easily split and fail . It’s actually seriously stiff material, with plenty of strength. But its brittle and the density and grain structure being relatively straight can come apart on you.

Be real careful using any solvents on paduke. Even spray lacquer can make the stuff bleed if you hose it down too heavily. When you finish it, hit it with a light coat first and let it tack off before doing any wet coats. A hot clear coat can also make it bleed.

Kirk

[Bryan Adolphe]

Good to know about the finishing ….. this is the first time ive used padauk ,i think i will be adding a glass lam with my wood overlays on the backs of these ones even thou they will be low poundage bows … 

[Kirkll]

Good to know about the finishing ….. this is the first time ive used padauk ,i think i will be adding a glass lam with my wood overlays on the backs of these ones even thou they will be low poundage bows … 

The paduke, and wenge both make a great core wood mixed with bamboo too if you keep your lams around .050-.065. If you use two of them in a hybrid, or long bow you will notice a significant bit of horse power increase. its relatively light in mass weight and has excellent deflection properties. I've used it combined with straight grained Zebra wood and got a few bell ringers in the past. Hickory is another one of those brittle hardwoods better used in thinner lams rather than thicker.

I would avoid putting it on the belly side of an RC limb next to the glass though... its compression qualities are not all that good. i use a thin rock hard maple lam against the belly glass on all my RC limbs. Even an .030- .035 maple lam will insure a good shear/compression factor.

[4 point]

Putting a recurve together that I forgot I was supposed to build for a guy. I’m liking the wood combo he picked. The veneers are bocote.

[Crooked Stic]

Looks like kingwood and what?

[4 point]

It’s Honduran rosewood and bocote

[Crooked Stic]

Nice but for me them are itchey woods

[kennym]

Looks great Travis!!

[Kirkll]

Where did you get the bocote... I haven't had very good luck finding any 8/4 stock.

I just had a reaction from the last rosewood i worked with BIG TIME... i broke out in a rash that started spreading from my hands, up my arms and even my chest... had to go get some steroids from the doctor to tame things down...Took a week or more to clear up.   It's a shame too. That rosewood is nice riser material.

[4 point]

I got it from Kenny, I think he usually stocks it.

I was worried about a reaction but I didn’t have any problems. Cocobolo will tear me up!

[Crooked Stic]

Bacote cocobolo Bolivian Rosewood for me is like rolling in poison Ivy 

[OldRawhide42]

You guys are making me rethink my dust collection. I have 2 rosewood risers going right now.

[Kirkll]

Zebra wood saw dust makes me go into sneezing fits bad....i'm talkin 30 sneezes in a row non stop.
Last time i used it i almost blew my mustache off...

[Crooked Stic]

Also a dust mask for any wood.

[Kirkll]

Yesterday it was loosing the conveyor belt on my drum sander, and having to change it out with a spare, or 1/2 spare belt I had stashed.

 I’ve always had tracking issues with this Jet 16/32 conveyor belt. The stock conveyor belt cannot be purchased anymore, and the only one I could find was a very thin belt that didn’t hold up well at all. I really need to find a source to have another higher quality belt made for it…

Today my little 14” bandsaw that I run my carbide tip blade on broke down on me. There is a bracket that the wheel shaft is mounted on that not only adjusts tension, but the blade tracking. With this being an off brand machine that has gotta be 30 years old, I cannot find a source for parts at all.  Anyone ever heard of “HDC Quality Tools” ?   

Well I was looking at random bandsaw parts on line and found a part for a Jet 14” that has unbelievably close specifications as the part I’m looking for. So close that I ordered the part to see if it will work. I may have to modify it a bit. But I took the old part up to a welder buddy of mine and he shook his head saying he didn’t know whether the cast aluminum could be welded or not. I was told the shops call it “pot metal” and it was always a mystery how they made it, and what was used in the molten mix. Sometimes it could be spot welded, and other time it couldn’t be welded at all….

Of course I had a riser with a G-10 I beam needing to be roughed out with my carbide tipped blade , and had to revert to my old technique with a lot more edge sander work to get this one piece riser ready to lay up.

Kinda strang to have two machines go down in two days….  Kirk

[wood carver 2]

Kirk, I used to have a bandsaw that had a pot metal casting under the table that supported the guide bearings. When it snapped in two, I JB welded it and it held up for years before breaking again. This time I took it to a welding shop and I explained how I had repaired it. He agreed to try welding it, and believe it or not, he succeeded. He said that he had no idea what metals were in that piece of crap. I guess he saw it as a challenge.
Dave.

[OldRawhide42]

Kirk what is your old technique . I do not have a carbide blade. Right now I sand a lot.
Jim

[Kirkll]

Update!   That part I ordered on Amazon for the bandsaw not only fit perfectly, but was tapped with the same size holes for the adjustment knobs and the tension spring housing was identical too… It must have been one of those universal parts used by many different bandsaw manufacturers for years. I was shocked it needed no alterations at all and that upper wheel slipped right on the shaft and the old nut holding it on fit perfectly too.  Amazing…

My old technique for cutting G-10 is a carbide tip saw blade on my table saw and removing as much as I can, then use the edge sander and die grinder.

Prepping for lay up isn’t bad without the band saw, but more time consuming. But cutting out the strike plate with an exposed, thick G-10 I beam is really a chore without that carbide tipped blade on the bandsaw. 60 seconds on the band saw, vs 20 minutes using a hack saw and a die grinder.

Glad to have that baby back up and running.   Kirk

[Crooked Stic]

I think if you take a look at most bandsaw of the same size you will find the main parts are the same with different names.

[Kirkll]

I think if you take a look at most bandsaw of the same size you will find the main parts are the same with different names.

Well that’s a good thing… makes me want to update and replace some roller guides that are getting pretty rustic looking on this unit. This is the part that broke that I replaced fo $44.00 on Amazon.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/kjBvF7RiVKvqhVLs8