Yup… that clicking noise is the outer pin hole in the limb binding up. I use a slot instead of a hole in my limb using a 1/4” mill end our router bit in my mill. I use one pin above the bolt .50” and the other is 2” below and slotted .040 . .020 each way from center….. But Mike is right… you can simply take your drill and rock it back and forth a fuzz from riser to tip direction by hand. But go easy, and go steady with it.
I’ve had some bows that I did everything to, and they still made noise until I covered the limb pads with a soft material. I’ve used mole skin, cork, and thin rubber pads. The rubber pads work the best and don’t wear out, and are unaffected by weather. I bought a 2” wide roll of it about .0625 thick. The .125 thickness was too much.
Yup…. That’s the thing about long lean wedges. If you mount them flat on the limb pad you can get flex in the wedge. What I did was put a very slight reflex in the wedge section of my forms so the air hose actually pushes a bit of reflex in the straight wedge during lay up…. You don’t need much, but it works well. On my hybrid long bow limbs those limbs don’t even lay flat and touch at the end of the riser until you string them up. This actually does wonderful things for adding preload to your limbs loading up that wedge at brace.
Type of wedge material used can make a big difference too. Heavy limbs need good dense hardwood wedges, or something really stiff. Lighter weight limbs you can use walnut or different woods with less tensile strength. Curly maple is not a good wedge wood. That stuff flexes a lot.
My wedge thickness at the end of my risers run about 3/16” thick and go out there another 6.5”. About 5/16 to nothing in a 12” wedge when milling. Finished wedges are 11.5 and 10.5” for medium and long limbs, with a 4.75” limb pad length. You can do the math if ya want. It works well. Kirk
Topic: #s of air pressure for riser overlays? (Read 2446 times)
