What Makes a Bow Great?

[Wudstix]

Many of my hunting shots happen before I realize that a shot is starting.  Reflex takes over and the first impression I have of a shot is the arrow hitting the target animal.  Generally, after realizing that I will shoot an animal, if there is time for that, I focus on impact point and then the arrow shows up there.  As several have stated, thought tends to mess up the process, that's why I am just an average 3-D shooter.  Prime example is my first, and only so far, turkey stepped out of the brush at 18 feet and then he was flopping on the ground.  No recollection of a shot.
 

[Roger Norris]

When a bow fits so well that i can just pick it up and shoot.....no thinking.....just shoot.

[BAK]

If you read over these responses one thing stands out.  Folks want a bow that hits were their looking, and that only happens if the grip is right for them.  How is it that most "custom" bowers don't take that into account when building a bow?

Pick up a straight stick and hold it in the middle as if it were a bow.  Point your index finger at a "target".  What angle is the stick at, both left to right and front to back?  The closer your bows grip is to that natural point on the more likely it will hit where you look.   

[Kirkll]

If you read over these responses one thing stands out.  Folks want a bow that hits were their looking, and that only happens if the grip is right for them.  How is it that most "custom" bowers don't take that into account when building a bow?

Pick up a straight stick and hold it in the middle as if it were a bow.  Point your index finger at a "target".  What angle is the stick at, both left to right and front to back?  The closer your bows grip is to that natural point on the more likely it will hit where you look.   

This is spot on..... Having a custom built bow that fits you to a tee at a comfortable draw weight is a huge factor.  AND.... There are still custom bowyers that still DO place a great value in the grip shape to match his customers shooting style......  I'm one of them...   

There are other factors that make a bow shoot right where you are looking too. The arrows spine vs how far to-center , or past center cut the shelf is. Tuning your arrows properly makes it possible to shoot this bow at different angles without effecting your point of impact.  So in other words its not just the bow..... The set up has a lot to do with it too.    Kirk

 Kirk

[BAK]

Absolutely Kirk.

[ESP]

Generally, the following, not sure what order: a deflexed handle/riser, won’t break (I have a 31.5” draw and even shooting 12-13 grains per pound I’ve had many a limb give out), grip something repeatable with out thinking about it.

Then just keep it till you and the bow are best friends.  I should take my own advice on this.

[Even]

Bow setup and arrows are huge, and it has often amazed me how much a little tuning can change a bow's entire feel.  Great point, Kirk.

I've often wondered how many "Magical" bows found by people (myself included!) just happened to be "lucking out" on setup, and first arrow selection.

The more I learn (and its a forever process!) the more I realize that working with a custom bowyer who really understands what he is doing, and could spend the time with you getting it ALL right, would be amazing. 

No wonder most of us own lots of bows. 

[kopfjaeger]

I own twenty-one bows and I like quite a few of them. But the only bows I consider great are the two my Dad bought me when I was a kid. A 45# 1969 Bear Green Fox, and a 60# 1974 Bear Grizzly. They are sentimental to me. Both hang on my wall in my game room.

[Wudstix]

I usually send a sketch of my hand along with the deposit and talk to the bowyer about how I like the bow to fit.  So far all three customs that I had made fit great, one other bow I bought used that was from one of the bowyers fits as well.  Almost all the bows I've picked up used feel good.  Guess I'm lucky. 
 

[Even]

The hand sketch idea is a great one, I'll remember that trick. 

I own twenty-one bows and I like quite a few of them. But the only bows I consider great are the two my Dad bought me when I was a kid. A 45# 1969 Bear Green Fox, and a 60# 1974 Bear Grizzly. They are sentimental to me. Both hang on my wall in my game room.

I think sentimental value is as good a reason as any for a great bow!   I have a .410 single shot grouse gun my Dad gave me for my birthday that will be the last firearm I part with, ever.  Hunting trips with him when I was young were pretty damn special.

[Hud]

A bow should be stable, durable, quiet, smooth and fun to shoot. The string alignment needs to be spot on and the limbs quiet on release and not vibrating like a tuning fork. I built two for myself in the late 1980's and compared the heavier one weighing 69# @ 28", and measuring 69" to an 80# ASL measuring 70" in my possession. It was fun to compare the two, shooting POC arrows that I had with me at the North American Longbow Safari in Alberta, Canada. The arrows weighed 650 gr. and the 69# was smoother and didn't feel harsh like the 80#, besides shooting consistently further. When I got back, I shot both together to confirm what I liked and didn't like and decided to sell the 80# and 90# made by a reputable manufacturer.

[Even]

Hud, if you don't mind my asking, what were the design differences between the 69# and the 80# bow?   

Or to put it slightly differently, what design aspects, in your opinion, made the feel so different between the two bows? 

[Kirkll]

A bow should be stable, durable, quiet, smooth and fun to shoot. The string alignment needs to be spot on and the limbs quiet on release and not vibrating like a tuning fork. I built two for myself in the late 1980's and compared the heavier one weighing 69# @ 28", and measuring 69" to an 80# ASL measuring 70" in my possession. It was fun to compare the two, shooting POC arrows that I had with me at the North American Longbow Safari in Alberta, Canada. The arrows weighed 650 gr. and the 69# was smoother and didn't feel harsh like the 80#, besides shooting consistently further. When I got back, I shot both together to confirm what I liked and didn't like and decided to sell the 80# and 90# made by a reputable manufacturer.

If you were making this comparison using the same 650 grain arrows on 80-90# draw weights, I’m not surprised with your results. The ASL design is very tough to build in lighter draw weights without hand shock, but with 80-90# bows the string tension is much higher at brace, and if matched up with 10-12 gpp arrows can be very proficient shooters.

I think if you used heavier arrows with those 80-90# bows from 800-900 grains, you would have possibly come to a different conclusion….   .02 cents worth….  Kirk

[blacktailbob]

Beauty, grip, toughness and performance. These things will be different for everybody.
My Blactail is indeed beautiful and I found out how tough it is after a couple drops on concrete (with heart failure) within the first month I had it. A little clear nail polish and no issues. YES, I am more careful with it now.
The grip feels really good, as have the previous three BTs I had. I keep dropping draw weight. Draws really smooth to my 30"+ draw and hits average 183fps with 10gpp arrows.
Sure do love all the gorgeous bows out there but my Sitka is my only hunting bow.

[Flbowhunter]

If the the string tracks and it has decent cast I can shoot it pretty good. If the string tracks, the grip is good for me, and it has decent cast I can shoot it well with little thought. I also like a bow cut to vent +/- and 1/8”, seems like they’re less finicky to tune.

[Even]

Blacktailbob, that is one absolutely stunning bow.   I love the red wood on it... just gorgeous.   Sounds like a great shooter too.

[Hud]

Even, I no longer own the 80# 70" American Semi longbow, it could have been sold from inventory. Nothing special, 4 lams of bamboo and brown glass.  It had and 18+ strand, Flemish string of B50 dacron, 1/2"+ back-set, and an average size dish grip.

My 69# 69" ASL was one I built, it had an 18 strand, B50 flemish string, 1/2" back-set and a custom straight grip, two thin parallel lams, and three tapered to get the taper I wanted. Maple laminations and black glass, nothing to fancy.  I'll post some pictures within a day or two under the subject: "Equipment I've made and use, lets see yours".

Kirkll, I was going to try some ash shafts, but didn't care for the grain run-out and lack of straightness. only took two dozen or so with me to the NALS in Alberta.

[Even]

Thanks, Hud

I can see if the lower poundage bow was built by you, for your preferences at the time, how it could easily trump the other bow, regardless of arrows.   So much of what I read and see here leads me down the path of learning to build my own.  I imagine its both very rewarding and frustrating at the same time. 

I look forward to seeing the pictures of your bow.

[Terry Green]

One that checks every box for YOU. 

[Wdfox]

There is only one thing that makes a bow great.  One thing only — it’s the shooter!