Thanks everyone. Kirk I'm guessing on a one piece bow is when you hacksaw the shelf then finish the rest of the sight window on the bandsaw.
Roger that.... but i remove most of the strike portion with my edge sander first. making the vertical cut with a table saw would be dangerous. Some guys have , as i, used a router to remove that material, and it can be done successfully. But using cutters takes a bit of thought when doing any kind of mill work. There are sometimes issues with tear out on certain wood grains, and the direction the cutters are rotating is a factor with wood as well as fiberglass backing. when the cutters come out of a piece of wood, it will often splinter the wood grain or glass. sometimes just using a piece of tape can prevent this using very sharp cutters, but not always. sometimes its necessary to use a backer board. this is true for saw blades on a chop saw or table saw as well.
There are advanced methods of milling wood and other products using spiral cutters, and learning how to safely "climb cut". But....Climb cutting with a router can be very dangerous even when the router is fixed on a router table. In case you are unfamiliar with the term "Climb cutting" its a description of running your wood into the cutters in the same direction as the blades. This will definitely eliminate tear out, But it can easily grab the wood right out of your hands, and suck your fingers right into the cutters. I've seen this happen before with uneducated woodworkers. Also trying to climb cut free hand with a router is bad too. it can run away from you easily.... Climb cutting is typically only done with mill work with a power feed that holds the wood in place, or when clamped in a vise on a machinist table.
there are many ways to skin a cat.... choose wisely my friend... Kirk
Topic: Table saw blade recommendations (Read 1355 times)
