Strength in a footed riser

[Bryan Adolphe]

Question! On a footed riser i have 4 laminations of wood on the back….. adding glass or phenolic …. what would be the best for strength?

[buckeyebowhunter]

Is it a takedown riser or one piece?

[kennym]

Glass will be stiffer than phen

[Crooked Stic]

Glass better a form of glass G10 better yet.

[Bryan Adolphe]

Is it a takedown riser or one piece?

sorry yes a T/D ,

[Bryan Adolphe]

I remember seeing a site window getting cut out and temporarily replaced before the back overlays get installed, me bandsaw not set up to cut glass much....might need to invest in a new blade sometime. $$$

[buckeyebowhunter]

I recently built a footed riser with just two glass accents at 0.030" and then a strip of action wood also 0.030" and it's holding up well.

Yes if you plan to cut a lot of glass and phenolic you will need to bite the bullet and get a lenox tri master blade.

[Bryan Adolphe]

I have a sheet of 1/16 g10 just have not wanted to wreck any blades yet

[Crooked Stic]

If your sawing strips a concrete blade on tables awhile will work. But then when youdoe the risercutting prolly need bandsaw

[buckeyebowhunter]

If you're just cutting strips just use a hacksaw. Do not try to use a miter saw. Bandsaw you need the tri master to cut the riser. The worst part is cutting the sight window. I've been experimenting with taking little chops with the miter saw then using my edge sander to shape the sight window. That cut can be pretty tough even with the carbide tooth blade on a bandsaw.

[Kirkll]

Question! On a footed riser i have 4 laminations of wood on the back….. adding glass or phenolic …. what would be the best for strength?

It depends on the shape of your riser on what is best for strength. If it’s a full radius back, using glass will be stronger than phenolic. But keep in mind…. The laminations of that footing itself is adding strength to the riser. If you are doing an S shape on the back, you just need to cap any end grain run out, and typically hardwood will do that fine….   How about posting a picture of the finished riser shape? That would be helpful…..   Kirk

[Bryan Adolphe]

Hey Kirk heres a pic . Its pretty much as simple as it gets for a footed riser, but it’s a start… A fair bit of work building jigs just to do this. I may use technology.lol To do anything more complicated 

[Kirkll]

Well its kinda tough to comment on overlays without seeing how you plan to shape the back of the riser.  but.... if you are doing an S shape and do not get into the footing line ends like this photo, i see no need for overlays at all on that riser unless you want them for aesthetics. then i would apply them first, then do your limb pad overlays to cap the end grain.

Now if your S shape goes past that footing line and exposes it to the back of the riser. you Definitely need overlays to cap it. But wood overlays is all you need for strength.... Glass isn't going to add much strength to an S shape.

[Bryan Adolphe]

 Sorry the back is radius not s- shaped.

[Kirkll]

Really?   Typically you build your footings so they center up on the grip. I was looking at your marked area for the deepest part of the grip, and guessing where the standard 1.75” depth would be…

I’m not sure that footing shape is going to work well with a radius back riser without cutting through your footing lines…. That looks seriously thick through the center to me.  What is the measurement from the deepest part of your grip to the back of the riser that is shown in your photo? 

[Bryan Adolphe]

Kinda deceiving right now Kirk cause i haven't finish sanding the radius just cut the limb pads so will see but the plan was not to get into the footing , the drawn grip should be were it ends up at 1 3/4” …..

[Kirkll]

On a radius back shape, I always shape the back and the limb pads at the same time, and wrap my overlay full length. I typically use linen phenolic, but have used hardwood from time to time…. You’ll have to post some photos when you get it dialed in….

Kirk

[Bryan Adolphe]

On a radius back shape, I always shape the back and the limb pads at the same time, and wrap my overlay full length. I typically use linen phenolic, but have used hardwood from time to time…. You’ll have to post some photos when you get it dialed in….

Kirk

I will do that …. You bet ! 

[Bryan Adolphe]

Here it is all finished up pecan and black Limba , maple limb core. It finished a bit heavy for me @ 50# so I’ve only been able to short draw it to shoot , it really does smoke a 560 grain arrow i’m quite happy with the way it shoots.

[Jon Lipovac]

Looks great Bryan!