With the Binghams recurve design you can easily get away with an .002 forward taper rate because the hook isn't very aggressive...
Now you mentioned the you made some changes to the form... If that change included making a tighter radius hook end, you may want to rethink your forward taper rate and use just one .001 taper....
What happens is that as the limb starts getting thinner at the tips, you start loosing torsional stability. The more radical you make the hook, and further you put your tip notches out on said hook, the more it wants to go sideways with less than a perfect alignment...
Building recurves, there is a learning curve.... THE most important part of building these things is starting out with the limbs mounted perfectly square to the riser block the full length of the limbs. You can adjust the straightness with the width profile, and adjust it with tip notch depth. ALWAYS shape your limb profile a bit wide at the tips so you have room for adjustment.
Once you get to the point where you can keep a string on these things and have them draw straight without limb twist, THEN you start learning how taper rates, wedge location and length, working limb length, limb balancing, Tip wedges or no, and preload comes into play for getting higher performance.....
Welcome to a HUGE rabbit hole. It can be a lot of fun.
![biglaugh :biglaugh:](https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/Smileys/tg/xxc_laugh.gif)
Kirk
Look at these photos getting my limbs perfectly square before mounting them on my riser block.
This is a HUGE thing.....
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UzS2LqJwCvXYW5cn8