Author Topic: Cracked limb  (Read 374 times)

Offline Bradely

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Cracked limb
« on: August 06, 2024, 06:12:04 PM »
I recently ordered a used Jeffrey royal td and the limb guide bolt hole is cracked on the lower limb. Just wondering how big of an issue this is and if I should return the bow

Online jrstegner

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Re: Cracked limb
« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2024, 06:46:33 PM »
That isn't an issue at all.

Online Kirkll

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Re: Cracked limb
« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2024, 11:46:38 PM »
This isn’t uncommon to see in the outer location pin hole on a TD riser if the outer limb location pin hole isn’t slotted. The location pin is binding up as the limb flexes and splits the glass. It can also be caused taking the limbs off the wrong way.

I use a vertical mill and put a .040 slot instead of the 1/4” holes alone to insure this doesn’t happen.

 If you have tight location pins, you should wax them first of all, and always wiggle the limb from side to side to get them loose. This is still true for even a slotted location pin to insure you don’t do this to the other pin hole.

Popping them loose by applying pressure to the bottom of the limb and lifting it up from end to end can bind up the pin and crack the glass.

As far as saving it goes… it may never go any further, or ….those splits in the glass could run up the limb or to the butt if it’s on that side.

Can it be repaired? Yes… but I would send the bow back and have the bowyer do it. Or consult with a bowyer to establish a technique to do it yourself.    Kirk
« Last Edit: August 06, 2024, 11:52:55 PM by Kirkll »
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Offline Crooked Stic

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Re: Cracked limb
« Reply #3 on: August 07, 2024, 06:51:21 AM »
My 2 cents--if you have to wiggle the limbs to get them off the pin holes are too tight. I try to get mine so it takes very little effort.
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Online Kirkll

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Re: Cracked limb
« Reply #4 on: August 07, 2024, 09:59:28 AM »
I have noticed a difference between using an end mill vs a drill bit boring my pin holes in the limbs. Also drill bits are not quite as accurate in actual size than end mills. I typically use an end mill in both the riser and the limbs for boring, and the pins go into the riser very tight with a touch of super glue after roughing them up a bit with 80 grit.

The limbs get milled using the same end mill, but on the top location pin, I use a 1/4” drill bit to bore them out a touch bigger. The slotted pin hole is typically perfect just using the end mill.  I have a special drill bit I use just for that I found is the perfect size…. I often use this bit again after spraying the finish to remove any material inside the pin holes…. These little things make a difference to me.   Kirk
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