Shimming the limb pad on a black hunter to move tips forward?

[Longtoke]

Has anyone tried this type of thing before? Is it safe to do? I wouldn’t try it on a nice rig, but I figure my trusty black hunter can handle the abuse.

The idea is to increase the performance by altering the angle of the limb pad to bring the tips more forward.   I am not sure how much I can go while still having enough limb bolt threads to shoot safely or how much performance will be gained. Might be all for not?

Thoughts and ideas appreciated.

[Kirkll]

it wont take too many turns loosening your bolts to shim it an 1/8'' but i dont think i'd try much more than that. it depends on the length of your location pins. you can also get 1.75" limb bolts . stock limb bolts are typically 1.25"    Kirk

[Longtoke]

Thanks Kirk,    think changing the limb pad angle by that much would make it much faster?

[Kirkll]

Thanks Kirk,    think changing the limb pad angle by that much would make it much faster?

it may or may not do anything at all besides kick the draw weight up a couple pounds.. it depends on where your preload was on the limbs to begin with... You would probably gain more performance just lengthening your string and lowering the brace height...but a combo of both might give you a bit more zip...  worth a shot i guess.... Kirk

[Crooked Stic]

  I have heard that in speed testing THE BH will rival most customs.

[Kirkll]

The thing to remember is that every different limb design has an optimum brace height, and the bowyer or manufacturing company typically determines that brace heigh and string length.

If you are testing prototypes and trying to determine the optimal brace height, that’s where an adjustable riser comes into play. Taking the time to try different limb pad angles and using different string lengths is critical. You can check the string tension with an in line scale if you are so inclined, or simply shoot the bow and test the vibration level, sound, and speed.

When I’m doing a prototype set of limbs, I always start with a TD riser and do not shape the grip until I’ve determined the right preload and string length to maximize the limbs potential. Then I measure back from the string and mark the deepest part of the grip on the riser block at 7-7.25” , and shape my riser from there.  If I want a one piece bow, I use the TD bow I’ve just fine tuned as a pattern for the limb pad angles and depth of the grip.

Kirk

[Kelly]

The original Jennings Model T came with a wedge to fit between handle and limbs. Place it one way and the weight increased slightly over no wedge. Place it the other direction and it decreased the weight. The effect was a 3 different weight bow. It was the first adjustable, non adjustable bow before they realized the limb surface does not have to stay in total contact with the handle surface.

I know of at least one person who has done this but can’t remember his name. I was going to do this to one of my Black Hunters trying to increase performance but never did. I found out that I could increase the performance considerably by lowering brace height to under 7”, 6.5-6.75” specifically. I’m talking longbow limbs now.

I was going to use the plastic door shims for the wedge. Never did because the original bowyer of the Black Hunter redesigned the limbs with more reflex and then with the lower brace height there was and is plenty of performance imo.

[Kirkll]

Changing limb pad angles isn’t a good option for lowering or increasing draw weight.
Typically a bows limb shape is optimized with the correct limb pad angle, and a recommended brace height is provided by the bowyer…. You start messing around with anything but twisting your string a bit, and you are just shooting yourself in the foot.

You see the same thing going on with ILF limbs… the adjustment on an ILF limb isn’t for draw weight….