wenge

[Smguinnip]

I will be using Wenge for the first time on my next bow. it will be used as an I-beam as well as some accents and overlays. my question is- do the pores need to be filled before gluing up or do I just try and force the EA40 into the pores as best as I can and glue up as I normally would? I was thinking about using CA to seal/fill the pores then run through the drum sander to prep the surface for gluing, or would you all think this would be overkill? What has worked for you guys when dealing with porous woods like this?

[wood carver 2]

I’ve used wenge before and I just glued it up like normal. I normally use Titebond 3, but it shouldn’t make any difference. I think the problem with porosity occurs when you want a smooth finish where it’s exposed. If anything, the pores should help give a strong glue joint.
Dave.

[Bryan Adolphe]

 David is right.....  I’ve used it lots for I-beams and a few footed risers sanded with 40 grit and cleaned up with air hose just glued up as normal with  EA-40 so far no troubles,  it’s when you want to fill all those pores for a smooth finish the work begins.

[BigJim]

You don't want to fill the pores on wenge with CA. It can leave white dots.. not always, but if you don't get the majority sanded off it will look like heck. It also won't help for adhesion.

I would use a ton of it if it weren't so difficult to fill the pores when finishing.
BigJim

[Kirkll]

Brandon Staul of Rose Oak bows used a polyester resin for filling those Grand Canyon type pores on Wenge, and other porous woods. He did a lot of high gloss finishes on his bows too. I’ve never used it myself, so I can’t give a good reference to the exact material. So I’m no help there.

I just quit using the stuff myself. Like Jim, it ain’t worth the extra work having to fill that gain.    Kirk

[Jeff Freeman]

Wenge, I love it.  But it does take more fill work, if you want it smoooooth. With no grain or pinhole.
Richard Korte turned me on to this method.

[Jeff Freeman]

After mixing it with some cheap ML syringes I apply it with a gray one inch wide, that's what I normally use but I ran out foam brush. When that is dry to the touch without leaving barely a fingerprint I mix up and do another coat and so on up to three coats maybe four on Wenge. After that is dry for a day in proper Heat 70°. I sand it with 150 to remove the high bumps then switch to 220 and sand until I might start breaking through. When I break through I mix up another batch and brush it on and let it dry this should be coming out smoother with no pin holes or grain depth showing, shiny spots. After that is all said and done I sand it down with 320 then I spray with another gloss epoxy which goes on a lot smoother. I don't know the name of that one right now but any glossy proxy spray on for work. The nice sandwich 320 to 400 Grit to make it all nice and slick don't see any shiny spots like grain marks or pin holes. Then I spray my final finish, most of the time I use Helmsman indoor outdoor Spar Varnish your thing in satin. Because anybody that has one of my bows if they scratch it they can touch it up with that spray finish. JF

[Jeff Freeman]

I do not put it on the glass. No need for that. That will get clear coated in the end.

[Jeff Freeman]

I do work my syringes so I can reuse those for the next 3 to 4 coats all the same day

[Jeff Freeman]

Mark not work stupid voice

[Jeff Freeman]

This bow was finished with the same process.

[Jeff Freeman]

And this bow,but in gloss epoxy.

[Jeff Freeman]

Another pic

[Jeff Freeman]

All my pictures are coming out  upside down sideways.  Wow.  I haven't had this issue before. Possible new stupid smart phone. Samsung 24?

[Jeff Freeman]

Samsung  Galaxy 24

[Richard Korte]

Richard here. The epoxy step is just my normal routine in making bows. It takes a little extra time but the results more than worth it.
I always sand the risers to 600 grit, then Scotchbrite pads, and finally OOOO steel wool. I wear a headband magnifier and a bright light to carefully search for any scratches and repair them. Then I use compressed air to blow off any particles. I've always used MAS epoxy in building wooden boats, so that's what I use for my bows. FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS! I usually use the calibrated pumps, but when coating risers, I always measure out the proper amount in a small, plastic one ounce medicine cup with calibrations(Amazon)... 2 parts resin plus 1 part hardener. I mark the proper amounts with a fine point Sharpie on the cup, add the epoxy and mix thoroughly. I hold the cup in front of a heat source while mixing, but not too long! Apply with a disposable 1" foam brush (Jenn brand on Ebay) Work quickly, covering all wood areas, but don't worry if you get some on the glass...you can always sand it off. DO NOT PUT THE RISER IN FRONT OF A HEAT SOURCE!! The wood will out-gas and bubbles will occur. Throw out the brush and cup...they are cheap. I found that in my shop, the epoxy will start to cure in ABOUT 45-50+ minutes, but check it frequently by gently touching it (in the fade out area)...you want it to feel like sticky masking tape. Then repeat the application of epoxy. I always apply 4 coats...sometimes 5 just to be sure. If you put on wood grip overlays, coat those also. I always set the bow aside for several days before sanding, to let the epoxy cure. Then sand but DO NOT SAND THROUGH THE EPOXY!!  You probably will anyway...if you do, slop a few more coats of epoxy on and be more careful next time. (Photo tutorial to follow shortly)

[Longcruise]

All my pictures are coming out  upside down sideways.  Wow.  I haven't had this issue before. Possible new stupid smart phone. Samsung 24?

I just got a 24 and it does it.  Previously an S10 and same thing.  I use this resizer to make pictures acceptable to forums.  But, pictures that look upright in the Gallery will show that they are sideways or upside down in the resizer.  You can quickly and easily rotate,  crop and resize in this app.

[Stagmitis]

Jeff I remember you talking about the mas epoxy a while ago but never tried it-I have been using this and it fills exceptionally well! Luthiers use it as well. Hec I could probably finish the entire bow with it:)  I apply it using a French polish and for most wood only takes a couple coats

[Stagmitis]

Not sure what happened- I’ll try posting pic again but if it doesn’t work it’s the Zap finishing resin

[Kirkll]

You guys are sure going to a lot of work just to get a smooth finish. Most woods can be filled easily with a spray lacquer or brushing lacquer and can be sanded fairly quickly. 

You can also mix a little acetone with smooth on epoxy to fill deep pores. but that needs an over night dry time.    Kirk