Predator Recurve Tiller question

[Shan]

Gents,

Hoping to find a Predator Recurve fanatic that knows what Ron Pittsley tillered these bows for (three under/split)? I have an old Hunter 60@28 (it's actually in my profile pic) that I'm going to pick back up and tune after this hunting season. Was curious if anyone knew.

Shan

[stagetek]

I have a bunch of Predators, shoot them all split finger. I can't answer your question, but if you could try and contact Mike Hoadley, he could. He was Ron's business partner and ran the company for a few years after Ron passed.

[Kirkll]

Most bows it really doesn't matter shooting split or 3 under. it's just a matter of adjusting the string knock and rest a bit to accommodate arrow clearance and porpoising.

If you have the bow handy, just measure the string to the fades top and bottom. That will tell you what you want to know.  Not that it will make any difference..

[Shan]

Thanks for the replies. I realized after posting that I can just measure the tiller.

I've found that it's easier to get perfect bareshaft flight with a negative tiller when shooting 3 under. When bows are positive or even they seem to be more finicky, I often have shelf bounce issues. This is all probably due to imperfect form on my part.

[Kirkll]

Thanks for the replies. I realized after posting that I can just measure the tiller.

I've found that it's easier to get perfect bareshaft flight with a negative tiller when shooting 3 under. When bows are positive or even they seem to be more finicky, I often have shelf bounce issues. This is all probably due to imperfect form on my part.

What are you considering being a "Negative Tiller" ? Is the shorter measurement on the top limb or bottom?

If you often have shelf bounce, just raise the string nock up a fuzz.  If the shelf is flat, create a bump in it with some padding under the rest material. you also want that bump in the shelf  to line up with the deepest part of the grip too. This helps with any torque you apply to the grip not effecting the arrow flight.   

BTW.... shooting 3 under it always helps to elevate the rest a bit. Cuts the noise down a bit too.


Kirk

[ed lash]

In recollection, Ron Pittsley shot split fingers and was a fairly deliberate shooter. He was on a program with Dan Bertalan and went through his shooting routine. It was actually a great program and very informative.

[Tajue17]

I think it does matter thats why many bowyers ask,,,,, it comes down to where the string nock will be.   I like to shoot really close my doe was 5yds and my buck was 13 so I shoot split and what I noticed is with a bow tillered for both It takes longer for my arrows to straighten after let off I went nuts trying to get my string nock right it wanted to be so high and thats how I know now if a bow is not tillered for split I think the bottom limb is weaker maybe making up for that extra finger.    honestly I don't really know but I do know if I got a bow thats tillered for split the bare shaft tuning is easy. 

I have 1 of Rons bows an original Darton Preditor and I shoot it split and my nock is at 3/8" not 5/8" high if it were tillered the other way. 

[Shan]

Cool info, thanks guys.

By negative tiller i was referring to a larger string/limb gap on the bottom limb. THanks for the suggestions on rest/nock point.

[Shan]

Circling back here - the tiller on my Hunter is dead even.

[Tajue17]

Im not the OP but this thread go me curious,,,  for even tiller your measuring at the end of each fade out to the string at brace height?   If so can you also measure from
The tip of the fade out to the string loop
Groove to see if both limbs are equal there also? I sid that on recurves using blue painters tape then peel off and stick to flat surface then measure.

[Kirkll]

Im not the OP but this thread go me curious,,,  for even tiller your measuring at the end of each fade out to the string at brace height?   If so can you also measure from
The tip of the fade out to the string loop
Groove to see if both limbs are equal there also? I sid that on recurves using blue painters tape then peel off and stick to flat surface then measure.

You start doing that on different bow designs and you will open up a can of worms…  

There are some bowyers out there that still play with the long limb / short limb thing, and do not center the riser….  Had some pretty good debates with these guys too with tiller tree experiments….     Have fun with that.   Kirk

[Shan]

Im not the OP but this thread go me curious,,,  for even tiller your measuring at the end of each fade out to the string at brace height?   If so can you also measure from
The tip of the fade out to the string loop
Groove to see if both limbs are equal there also? I sid that on recurves using blue painters tape then peel off and stick to flat surface then measure.

Not sure on that one brother.

[hvyhitter]

I have two predators and an extra set of heavy limbs and all work well with the same nock point of 9/16 above center. Have shot three under for decades and many, many bows have come and gone and almost all end up at that nock point no matter how they may have been "tillered" by the bower. I feel that nock point is more about how you shoot and what arrows you use than the bows tiller. Just tune it and shoot it...........YMMV