I have that too. I made inserts that fit down in the cradle of the tillering tree that are shaped flat and others of various curves. I also have a short piece of a half-round file that I can place anywhere on the cradle to reveal the balance point, or allow the bow limbs to be balanced relative to that fulcrum point... to an extent, i.e. there's only so much we can do when it comes to moving the fulcrum under the bow hand because of bow design and geometry.
BUT, I've found those inserts almost entirely unnecessary. When I balance bows as described earlier, they balance perfectly during and up to full draw, and shoot an arrow dead straight away from the nock point location on the string that I originally intended, from the very first arrow.
When the bow is done on the tree, it's dynamically balanced, it feels finely balanced in the hand each and every time, no additional adjustment/tuning/corrections needed. The pictures I've taken at full draw revealed that balance. All I have to concern myself with after the bow is done is arrow spine. Work moves straightforward toward that first arrow launched, no backtracking, no guesswork, bows are inherently tuned. Nothing to fix, no discrepancies to try to overcome by moving nock point location, etc. This is the main benefit to tillering with focus on dynamic balance... it's the quickest & easiest, consistently reliable way to a balanced bow that I've found.
Topic: Tillering Tree Question (Read 1342 times)
