Author Topic: Tillering Tree Question  (Read 7209 times)

Online Stagmitis

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #60 on: January 31, 2025, 01:28:05 PM »
First time using pillow blocks and pulley- no issues using a 1/2 “ rod in a 1” hole?
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Offline Bowjunkie

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #61 on: January 31, 2025, 02:59:54 PM »
 :biglaugh: :laughing: :bigsmyl:

Online Stagmitis

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #62 on: February 01, 2025, 12:51:30 PM »
Set screws too short to secure pulley to bar  7/8 will work :goldtooth:
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Online Stagmitis

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #64 on: February 01, 2025, 02:03:37 PM »
Because I want to easily and accurately move the pulley left and right to adjust string line travel for different tillers.  Did you read any of Bowjunkies and Roy’s posts on their tiller tree setup?
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Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #65 on: February 01, 2025, 04:47:51 PM »
Kirk, we wood bow guys are higher tech than those damn glass bow guys:) :biglaugh:

Online Kirkll

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #66 on: February 01, 2025, 10:20:41 PM »
I get your drift guys..(Pun intended). I simply shift the bow one way or the other where it sets on the top for that, and center up the deepest part of the grip for tiller adjustments... 

But.... i suppose that doesn't apply to guys that are heeling down on their flat shaped bow grips and gripping the the bow hard enough to choke a chicken with a bent arm so it doesn't rattle their teeth loose shooting it.

But you are right... You self bowyers are the masters... 
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Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #67 on: February 02, 2025, 07:10:26 AM »
 :biglaugh: :laughing: :thumbsup:

Online Stagmitis

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #68 on: April 04, 2025, 01:09:16 PM »
Bowjunkie I’m playing around with your tiller method and it looks like I would have to negatively tiller my bows to get straight line travel which I’ve never seen done before.
 Question ? Regardless of the fulcrum point established by the fingers at full draw at the moment of release and when the string stops released isn’t a “vee” formed in the string and all pressure shifts straight through the nock?
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Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #69 on: April 05, 2025, 12:00:09 PM »
Negative tiller never hurt anything.
When tillering for equal limb timing, the tiller is just whatever it is when limbs are balanced.

Online dbeaver

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #70 on: April 05, 2025, 04:23:49 PM »
My very first glueup i mixed up a lam stack from one set of plans with the curves of another set and was never able to get a string on it.   I just started messing around with it this year after years of it sitting and staring at me had to narrow the limbs quite a bit to get it down to 60 pounds and in doing so i developed a half inch of negative tiller.  These limbs are scary narrow from 1 inch at the fades to 3/8ths nocks and tracking perfectly down the center of the limbs.  That all said i decided to shoot it quite a bit before moving forward and its really extreme but this 1/2" negative tiller has reliably cast the flattest arrow trajectory on a range of different weight and spined arrows.  This is just anecdotal and wasnt on purpose but it has gotten me thinking.

Online Kirkll

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #71 on: April 05, 2025, 04:36:14 PM »
My very first glueup i mixed up a lam stack from one set of plans with the curves of another set and was never able to get a string on it.   I just started messing around with it this year after years of it sitting and staring at me had to narrow the limbs quite a bit to get it down to 60 pounds and in doing so i developed a half inch of negative tiller.  These limbs are scary narrow from 1 inch at the fades to 3/8ths nocks and tracking perfectly down the center of the limbs.  That all said i decided to shoot it quite a bit before moving forward and its really extreme but this 1/2" negative tiller has reliably cast the flattest arrow trajectory on a range of different weight and spined arrows.  This is just anecdotal and wasnt on purpose but it has gotten me thinking.

Those ones that come in real heavy and are trimmed down skinny as a whip will always be fast. As far as tiller goes….

 1/2” difference in tiller measurement says nothing of the limbs actually being tillered.  Have you mapped the limbs to see if they are bending in the same spots?
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Online dbeaver

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #72 on: April 05, 2025, 05:19:11 PM »
Havent mapped them i did tiller for even tip bend at full draw. didnt have my tiller tree up so i used a tillering stick that i occasioanlly use for selfbows with a rounded top where the grip sits. mounted on a vice and sighted against my shop walls using the building legs to eyeball the tillering stick plumb and with the string set in the 28" groove the tips lined up on the same lip of siding.  Again i havent finished the bow and i know its properly aside from common standards. It just amazed me that its throwing these lasers, and it is quite fast, im going to tinker with trying to purposely build this same skinny bow a few times and see what sort of stack height differences turn up from its 'original" cousin bows that come off this form.

Online Kirkll

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #73 on: April 05, 2025, 07:29:09 PM »
Excellent!  I’d much rather  have a deeper core narrow limbs than a wider ones. But I still have a tendency to leave the tips an 1/8” wide for tip notch adjustment for tracking. Then narrow them up as I do the tip overlays.

Most guys building recurves build them much wider than they need to be, thinking it’s needed for stability.    Kirk
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Online Stagmitis

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #74 on: April 07, 2025, 12:05:51 PM »
I hear ya Roy! Guess I’m going to tiller a bow like that and see what happens. I still don’t understand why nock travel wouldn’t be calculated at the nock since all pressure in the string ends up there after the release and the end of the power stroke- anyone want to chime in is welcome:)
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Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #75 on: April 07, 2025, 02:01:51 PM »
We aren't talking about nock travel, we are balancing the bow limbs per where we grip the string.

Online Jon Lipovac

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #76 on: April 08, 2025, 11:22:37 AM »
Wouldn't it a proper assumption that if you get a bow properly tillered that the result would be better nock travel?

Online Stagmitis

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #77 on: April 08, 2025, 01:23:48 PM »
I get it Roy it was a misnomer- fulcrum travel(finger pressure)  not nock travel.

What I’m struggling to understand is this. At the moment of release all pressure shifts from wherever the pressure is initially exerted in the string to the “nock”.

So what is the significance of straight line travel at the fulcrum point?



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Online dbeaver

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #78 on: April 08, 2025, 01:42:59 PM »
https://youtu.be/0JCV33eocyY?si=yVs3V20wqUcX2hvD

I tried to convince myself the string does more than go flat to new string angle at the nock as your fingers release but this slow mo vid points to what stag is saying

Online Kirkll

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Re: Tillering Tree Question
« Reply #79 on: April 08, 2025, 02:46:04 PM »
Quote
So what is the significance of straight line travel at the fulcrum point?

I honestly don't believe there is any significance.  The limbs timing, tiller, and balance as that string comes comes forward back to brace height, and what happens to those limbs after Elvis has left the building is more significant.

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