Anyone know of a pattern/ flush trim sander i can just buy

[chefrvitale]

Hi guys, I am hoping one of you can point me in the right direction. I have fabricated 2 different pattern sanders, and purchased a robo sander with guide bearing...... im not happy with any of it.
I have a good budget for the right machine, but I have not come across anything. Does anyone know of a good sander for riser templates?
I have not found a solution that is faster or easier than doing it free hand on my edge sander.

[Crooked Stic]

I don't think anyone offers what you need l hade mine done buy a machinist years ago. Onthe drive drum of my Grizzly edge sander.

[Kirkll]

I believe Stic is right... if you have a large edge sander like a 6X80 , building a guide and a table on the motor end is the way to go. I too had a machinist fit a large bearing on my motor shaft that was set up for 36-40 grit sand paper thickness.....  But... i've seen some guys build a fixed guide on a piece of aluminum or steel they used for a table. I believe these would work well too.

Before i got this pattern sander set up, i tried using a large router that i set up on a work bench that i used very large 1.5" straight cutters with a bearing. Then i tried a very expensive spiral catters too....

Did it work? Yes.... But First ..... It's very dangerous running materials through large cutters free hand. Secondly you have to deal with tear out, and climb feeding is not an option freehand.   So hopefully you will save yourself going though that experiment.... The pattern sander is the way to go.   Kirk

[chefrvitale]

Thanks guys, kinda had a feeling that was the case.
I almost tried a shaper with a flush trim router bit...... but after a few warnings from you guys and physically turning it on and assessing the risk/reward of that shaper, I walked away from that idea. I appreciate the feedback.

[Crooked Stic]

If you use a 6x80 the drive drum needs to be turned flat except for an inch on each end. And build your jigs so your work is on the flat part.

[Crooked Stic]

[willi]

If you use a 6x80 the drive drum needs to be turned flat except for an inch on each end. And build your jigs so your work is on the flat part.

does the bearing need to be the same OD as the drum?

I was considering this mod, but my 6x80 is an old one and will require an end table and possibly some other work on the tensioner and and belt adjuster.
 
When you flattened your drum, did the adjuster work better or worse?  my adjuster is already is flakey and finicky.

[Crooked Stic]

Mine is a 6x80 grizzly. For my table I used 3/8s flat steel . Could have use alum. I had a lock collar bearing on the motor shaft with a drive wheel machined to fit the bearing. The wheel was .090 smaller than the drum with 60 grit paper on it. If I had it to do over would use a rub collar not a guide wheel. For the tracking I used black electrical tape and wrapped it with a noticeable bulge in the center. So no tracking problems.

[willi]

Mine is a 6x80 grizzly. For my table I used 3/8s flat steel . Could have use alum. I had a lock collar bearing on the motor shaft with a drive wheel machined to fit the bearing. The wheel was .090 smaller than the drum with 60 grit paper on it. If I had it to do over would use a rub collar not a guide wheel. For the tracking I used black electrical tape and wrapped it with a noticeable bulge in the center. So no tracking problems.

You adjust the belt tracking by building up electrical tape on one of the drums? which one?
(my idler drum has an off center hole drilled in its axis with an adjuster for tracking. maybe thats not how they do it any more)

[Crooked Stic]

The sander has tracking adjustment. The tape was used to build up the center part of the idler wheel for better tracking.

[willi]

The sander has tracking adjustment. The tape was used to build up the center part of the idler wheel for better tracking.

so the tracking got worse after you flattened the drive drum and needed the tape fix?

[willi]

some guys build a fixed guide on a piece of aluminum or steel they used for a table. I believe these would work well too.

If I had it to do over would use a rub collar not a guide wheel.

I can visualize the "guide wheel" with a bearing on the motor shaft arrangement.
I cannot visualize "a fixed guide on a piece of aluminum" or "a rub collar" arrangement.  Can any post a better descriptions or pics?

[Mad Max]

Here is one I did with a Ridgid oscillating sander, I only used the belt assembly and made the rest.

[willi]

thanx max

[Crooked Stic]

If you can PM me your cell # I can text you a drawing of my setup.

[Bryan Adolphe]

Here is a pic of my setup works well .

[sman]

I have a Jet spindle sander and just had a local shop 3D print a rub collar.  So far it's working, not sure how fast it will wear out, but I designed it so there is a collar on both sides. I took the illustrator drawing to them and they created the cad dog and 3d printed for $80

[Bryan Adolphe]

That should work well for you 👍

[Mad Max]

It's best to use a belt sander, the longer the belt, the better it cuts.
That small Spindle sander will clog up fast.
The robo sander works but same problem with cloging

[sman]

I understand the clogging.  But the cost of a used edge sander and then the cost to add a bearing or rub collar vs $80 for what I got works fine for the 3 to 4 bow I build a year.  Take your time and enjoy the build.