Question for the gap shooters

[EHK]

Question for the experienced gap shooters out there.  I just started gapping this year and find that it definitely helps me to shoot more accurately.  With hunting season just about over, I'm starting to think about gap shooting for 3D and am curious about how people gap shoot on small targets.  For example, I know that on my Rinehart Big Jim target at 15 yards, I need to be aiming down around the hoof to hit the sweet spot.  I haven't actually measured that gap, but I know what it looks like.  If that deer target was one of those small 3D targets we all love, like a raccoon or something, there wouldn't be enough vertical space to gap, and I would need to be aiming somewhere on the ground in front of the target.  Is that where that "gap-stinctive" style comes in?  Do you just eventually learn what that site picture looks like, or is there a more concrete way to go about aiming for those scenarios?

[lopey15]

Not to say that it is exactly the correct way but I suggest you setup up a target and get your gap measurements at different distances to begin with.  After a while it just becomes natural the more you shoot and you will start using the gap picture instead of the actual distance between the arrow and your aiming spot.

[Kirkll]

If you are going to pursue gap shooting, you can shorten up that gap distance with longer arrows and using an elevated rest.  Shooting 3 under with an elevated rest can tighten that gap up considerably and shorten your point on distance...

Another option is using a fixed crawl to get your point on established within your typical hunting shot distance.

.02 cents.

[Maclean]

Kirk X2

[Jim Wright]

You already know with your current set-up what your arrow hold is at distances on your Rinehart target. It will be the same on a full size Bison target or a grape suspended by a piece of thread. Trust your eyes/brain, over-thinking with this shooting an arrow with a bow thing can become problematic, don't ask me how I know.

[McDave]

Approximately 1/2 of your point on distance is the most difficult distance to use when gap aiming, because that is where the arc of the arrow is at its highest point, and thus where the gaps are greatest.  There are different ways to tackle this problem, some of which have already been mentioned. 

Adjusting your arrow weight and length to reduce your point on is appealing for short distances, but if you want to use the same bow for longer distances, you'll probably need a different set of arrows.

Finding a higher anchor point on your face and using the 3 under grip also works, but too high an anchor point conflicts with good form, and you may end up not shooting as well overall.

The best thing I have found that avoids these compromises is to gap off something other than the arrow point.  The top of the standard strike plate that comes with most new bows is about 1” higher than the top of the arrow.  This is perfect for me to use for aiming point on at 20 yards.  I also use this when hunting, where most of my shots are in the 15-20 yard range.  At 15 yards, I just hold the top of the strike plate a couple of inches below the spot I want to hit.  You have to get used to holding the top of the strike plate a little to the right of the spot you want to hit, but this becomes second nature after a little practice.  Your right/left accuracy is still determined by the shaft of the arrow in your peripheral vision, which is always pointed at the spot you want to hit.  You just ignore the point of the arrow for purposes of determining elevation.

In addition to the strike plate, there may be other features of the riser you can use to determine elevation.  For longer shots where the arrow point is higher than the point you want to hit, you may be able to gap off the shelf, for example.

All of these techniques may or may not be legal depending on the rules of the particular tournament.  There are no trad tournaments I’m aware of where it would be legal to mark your bow artificially or string walk.  Some tournaments get picky if you change anchors.  Most tournaments require that at least one finger be in contact with the arrow, so you couldn't use a fixed crawl in those tournaments. Some tournaments at the higher levels require you to eliminate everything on your bow that could be used for sighting, including the strike plate that came with the bow if it extends higher than needed to cushion the arrow.  If there is some feature of your riser that can't be easily changed or covered over, then you just have to use some other bow.

[PrimitivePete]

Or switch to a fixed crawl which is basically gapping in reverse. I shoot this way and using this method removes some time spent judging your gap in your visual view.

[EHK]

Some interesting points and I appreciate all the responses.  I like the idea of trying to use the strike plate or something else on the riser.  I shoot with a pretty decent cant, so using anything on the sight window is tough, but something closer to the shelf/arrow may work.

I know a lot of guys swear by the fixed crawl and I understand how and why that's effective.  That said, it's not for me.  I feel like having the arrow further away from the grip/hook sort of reduces effective draw length/power stroke, and as someone who shoot lighter weight bows, that's not desirable. 

[PrimitivePete]

Obviously you can choose whatever method works for you but I'd like to point out there isn't a loss of power stroke because you use a fixed crawl. I have measured my arrow and draw and it remains the same if I am right under the arrow or an inch below it.