What is "The Ultimate Stumping Arrow"

[Alexander Traditional]

I'm with 60Gunner. I've done this to some of my arrows,and they are still going strong. I just don't take those shots much anymore,and the better I get don't seem to lose and destroy as many arrows anyway.

[Terry Green]

Gotta get real guys.  You're not going to find out or get a REAL answer by guys posting their favorite arrows.  They are NOT all the same in durability.

Someone would have to do a test as nobody here has tested all shafts available.  I've tested my fair share for sure.  And as stated earlier, the double layer of radial wrap on the front end of the Hammerheads are far superior to anything else I have found. I have never hunted with them, they are not my favorite arrow, yet I'd like to see them tested against all the other's mentioned here.  They are simply the tuffest arrow I've ever roved and stumped with.  I have yet to break one in over 10 years. I only have 2 designated for stump arrows.

As for the other 10, I might hunt with them someday.  Kinda saving them for when I REALLY need them.  For now, the other brands/models I'm hunting with are very sufficient.

[Trond]

Thanks, Terry.
Must check out the Hammerheads, and if they are available in Norway. In my experiance, it is the nock end that cracks. Inserts get loose, and creeps out, but the nocks shoots out, and leaves the shaft cracked. Collars helps, but not all the way. I know that the perfect, unbreakable arrow does not exist, and that is not what I expected to find in this thread. Just wanted to find the closest recipe for an arrow that can take the beating of stumping in hostile environments. Seems that the conclusion will be a Hammerhead shaft, footed with aluminium and with a steel collar in the nock end would be the closest to the perfect stumping arrow you can get. That said, this will be continued as the quest for the "perfect" and almost indestructable arrow goes on...

[Terry Green]

Trond, yes, the nock ends.  ALL of the nock end splits I've experienced were with 'plug in' nocks, NOT glued in adapters and nocks over that.  Once glued it seems to make the entire arrow an entire 'Unit' and stronger.

If you want an indestructible arrow.....

Epoxy all inserts, nocks and points with a hi grade epoxy. Now you don't have 'pieces parts' but an entire 'whole arrow'.  CLEAN all components before epoxy via recommended method.

Nice thread, glad you started it. 

[frank bullitt]

These folks are leading you a stray!
The Only material that will withstand alot of stumping and squirrel shooting,
  Is Rivercane and or Bamboo!

[Bobby Sikes]

These folks are leading you a stray!
The Only material that will withstand alot of stumping and squirrel shooting,
  Is Rivercane and or Bamboo!

And, they are the least accurate. KAPOOOW!!! 

[Vroomvroom]

I have the gt trads and trad classics xt’s.  The xt’s do seem tough. But how tough compared to other arrows I cannot say. You need a reference.   I think I got them after seeing big Jim’s cinder block test. And they came with a collar.    They are very heavy gpi for a small diameter arrow.  But I’m not sure their manufacturing process.   As some have said, much of it may depend on how their manufactured.

[Longtoke]

Without getting into brand of shafts, some things I like to do to make a good stumping arrow is to beef up the inserts.

I like to use brass inserts and round or bevel the back edge  to give the shaft a chance to sort of flex around the insert in the event of heavy torque instead of crack along the back edge of it.

I also like to turn the front of the insert down to the same outside diameter of the arrow so the footing can slide over the insert and the arrow shaft seamlessly.

I also like to make the footing just a bit shorter than the insert.

When I build my thumper arrows this way the point of failure is usually the thread post of whatever point I am using. Not the arrow itself.

[Hud]

2x McDave: judo and rubber blunts.   If stumps are too hard, save plastic dog food bags, shred and store in a Burlap or fiber bags that vary in size from 10 x 14 in. to 24 x 40 in. Tie a few to a bush or limb in a safe area. Setup your own course.

[Stumpkiller]

I'm shooting 50 to 60# bows and I still use Douglas fir.  Like Jess said: know your stump.  Though I still find the occasional petrified wood or . . . gasp . . . misjudge a window and pinball an arrow through saplings.  Oh well.  I taper and fletch my own so that gives me an excuse to make more.

My wife has asked "How many arrows do you need?"  To which I reply: "How many are there?"  I make up two dozen at a time.  Probably snap six a year out stumping.

[Trond]

Three old Gold Tip Trads modified and tested to satisfaction. Shot at the toughest stumps, and dried up trees... no problem. Did not even kick out the nocks... looking good.

[Vroomvroom]

What’s collar is on the nock end, is the footing an arrow shaft?

[Ken E.]

Trond. Good luck with those. As stated earlier that is what I use and works for me. Have fun.

[Ken E.]

This may be helpful.  I usually shoot Gold Tips so may need to measure other brands

[Trond]

What’s collar is on the nock end, is the footing an arrow shaft?

Both ends are pieces of aluminium arrow shaft.

[Vroomvroom]

Ahh. Ok

[trad_bowhunter1965]

I wonder if guy used J-B weld to put his nocks in carbon arrow if that would make it stronger, you could never replace the nock.

[Trond]

Glueing in the nocks will be fine, until they break… then you have a problem getting them out again. I have considered pin-nock adapters, though. Then it will be pretty solid in the nock-end, and easy to replace the nock.

[Terry Green]

Simple, use a metal knock and weld it.

[Vroomvroom]

What did you think of that big Jim testing the GT trad classic xt ?    They had to be durable to take that.