Do I have to bareshaft??

[SteveB]

 One thing to remember is FORM. If your form and release is crappy. Bare shaft shooting is a BIG waste of time. You must have good form and a good consistent release

Not true if you use the method outlind by OL and A&H. The reason for comparing BS groups to fletched is to factor in the inconsistancies. really well explained on OL's site for those who care to read it carefully. Only a waste of time if you do not invest the time to understand it.

Steve

[Lashbow]

My setup now is perfect
Bare shafts are just a little low at 15 Yards
My Broadheads flew same as my tips to 30 yards or more when practicing.
I am guessing another 50 grains I will be a little weak, Maye trim 1/4 to 1/2 " But I need all the arrow I got.

Maybe I reconsider the change in the first place I am trying to get my FOC up a bit more.
If I add aquarium tube I am up to 725 grains, But according to the doctor, I would be better off at 650 graind with 5% better FOC.
Decisions,decisions

[WidowEater]

my bareshaft method is to use a bareshaft and eyeball the bareshaft in flight.  See if it is nock right or left up or down and make changes from there.  I only need one bareshaft this way.  As soon as the bareshaft is shooting a tad towards weak spine, I fletch and BOOM, shooting like frickin' lazer beams.

[overbo]

You're splitting hairs IMO,
If you got it shooting a 500+gr arro clean,you're good to go.

[swampbuck]

Go shoot have some fun.....overbo nailed it now your splitting hairs

I'm guessing that ya went and stripped one down or at least saraned it like was suggested.If ya did strip one down may I suggest that you leave it that way for a while and slip it in during your practice sessions.Bareshafts will tell you when you form is slipping....commonly we start short drawing or not maintaining back tension thru the shot assuming ofcourse that your/we are to that point that we are doing that LOL ,maintainig tension thru the shot that is and yes it does effect flight and impact.A BS slippied in for practice on a regular basis will let ya know if your slipping

[Lashbow]

I'll post my results and maybe a few of ya'll will look at in the future and help you out.

I decided to take a small length of airline tubing and fill it with lead shot, about a 2" piece. i wrapped it in tape and rammed it from the nock end towards the inset. now I have my 260 grains up front.
i wrapped my feathers to get a bareshaft and started shooting at 12yards. I could tell nothing different and was hitting my arrows almost. I moved back to 20 yards, my group was not as tight but the bareshaft arrow was in with the rest. GREAT!!
I glued up some broadheads, 100 grain steel with a 160 grizzley, spun until true ,cooled it, and shot it(fletched) flew like a homing pigeons, i can hit a three inch circle nicely with the blades.
I am ready to hunt and I have 22.3% FOC and a 597 grain arrow. I like the 650 grain area, but as you wise ones told me, were talking feathers now.
The thing I dont get is that my 200 grain setup bareshafted the same, I am surprised that another 50 graing didnt effect the results, at least with what i could tell.

I hope someone else will learn from my experience and to everyone who added to it a great thatnk you to you and I hope to post a first BIG game trad kill in the fall
Happy hunting
Lash

[Ybuck]

Not sure if you HAVE to.
Im learning from here and written material, and was under the immpression that i HAD to.
I'm glad i did. My arrow flight is great, and my confidence better for it.
Not to mention it is fun.

[Lashbow]

Good point, to answer my question do you have to, well In my case i made no adjustments, so technically no I didn't.
But I am glad I did, now i am more confident in my setup

[Davie C.]

I think arrowsbykelly.com (foxfire) still has a pretty effective way of tuning using only fletched broadheads. Those guys are all strong believers that bareshafting is a waste of time.

I always had bad luck bareshafting but it was because I always shot long arrows with too little weight up front. I would shoot three and they would all go different directions!

I found I prerequisite to flawless arrow flight in any case is having plenty of weight up front. That way all the physics of shooting an arrow works works the way it should.

[Biggie Hoffman]

after all of this...don't forget the turbolater!

Never bareshafted in my life.

Hmmmmmmmm.........

[Doc Nock]

Yeah, biggie, but from lookin at yer avatar, you dang near are bare-somethin'n  :eek:    :rolleyes:    

[John3]

I don't bare shaft.. Fletch them up and start shooting a broadhead!!! Tune your brain and your arrows with broadheads attached. When a broadhead flies true so will a field point.
I shoot only broadheads all year for practice. I don't hunt with a field point. This makes it hard to go shoot indoor league or any 3d courses. But then again I am a bowhunter; not a target shooter.


John III

[LKH]

You cut a carbon off too short and it's about impossible to get good flight out of them.  Without bareshafting I wasted a lot of money.  I'm a believer.

[BLACK WOLF]

Anything an archer can do to give them more confidence in themselves and their equipment is basically going to be beneficial.

Any kind of tuning in some form or another is something most of us all do. Some of us just want to be more precise about it.

Some archers just pick arrows based on spine charts, set their nock point, set brace height, fletch the arrows and if if everything appears to be flying well and hitting where they are aiming...it's all good. Nothing wrong with that one bit...if they are satisfied with the results.

While others...like myself...also bareshaft tune at long distance, paper tune with fletching and/or broadhead tune for nothing less than perfect arrow flight.

I also often use a bareshaft in my practice sessions to work on form. It can also be a great practice aide.

During typical hunting situations there isn't as great of a need for precision arrow flight when compared to tournament competitions...but something a hunter should keep in mind...is that a more perfectly tuned arrow will out penetrate an arrow that isn't as well tuned.

Ray  

[Biggie Hoffman]

During typical hunting situations there isn't as great of a need for precision arrow flight when compared to tournament competitions

You kinda came back and justified this statement but I want to reiterate that it is MORE important to have precision arrow flight in hunting situations. Targets don't bleed, critters do and the straighter that arrow is at impact, the better penetration you will achieve.

[JC]

Originally posted by Biggie Hoffman:
...I want to reiterate that it is MORE important to have precision arrow flight in hunting situations. Targets don't bleed, critters do and the straighter that arrow is at impact, the better penetration you will achieve.

Preach on Brudda Biggie!  

[broll89]

I tried bareshafting for the first time the other day with my beman ics bowhunters from about 15 yards.  I shot 3 arrows and two of them broke on impact with my carboard box filled with vizqueen. sp?  I will never do it again.  Don't know if I did something wrong or what but I don't really care.  Who cares what they fly like without feathers when normally the arrows have feathers on them.  The arrows I shot said nock point was high, but they couldn't fly any straighter with 5" shield cut feathers

[BLACK WOLF]

Biggie,

I totally understand your concern and believe in your values regarding taking a life...which is one of the reasons why I precision tune my equipment the way I do.

An arrow that needs minor tuning for perfect arrow flight in a hunting situation will still perform to the degree it needs to to make a kill if the archer places it within the large kill zone. The deer won't be any more dead with a more perfectly tuned arrow than with one that was killed by a slightly less than perfectly tuned arrow.

I believe the real issue of most concern is when arrows are so mismatched to the bow and the archer that it greatly effects accuracy and penetration at hunting distances.

The accuracy required to hit a paper plate or the kill zone of a deer is not the same as trying to hit the 5 ring on a NFAA 300 round or the gold at 90 meters.

That same arrow that isn't perfectly tuned but more than capable of killing a deer can score a 4 on the NFAA 300 target or in the red at 90 meters when a more precisionally tuned arrow would have gotten a 5 or the gold.

That is why I believe the degree of tuning I'm discussing has more of an effect on the desired result and becomes more important...but I totally understand where you are coming from.

Ray    

[Biggie Hoffman]

Cool :-)

as far as the 300 rounds and the gold dots and 5 rings, I have no idea what you're talking about so I would be remiss to try and compare those things to bowhunting.

You're too smart for me.....

[Terry Green]

No...you don't have to. I've only done it once with woodies, and I've never had flight problems or penetraition problems.

That is not a slam on someone who does though, so don't read that into what I said.

Thanks for making it clear Biggie that's its more important to the hunters, that actually kill stuff, than to the target archers that just type.