can you cut it with a 12" saw??

[Dale Hajas]

Ok I was going to get my new Sears 14" band saw last week and something came up. So my plans are to get it next weekend. Anyhow I get a call from some guy that has a nearly new 12" for sale. I dont thnk a 12" can take the abuse of a 14".

Your thoughts please?? And what type of blade as far as TPH works best. Most of what I use is hickory, with some osage.

Thanks folks!

[Jeff Strubberg]

I wouldn't buy anything less than a 14".  Matter of fact, I'de be real careful about some of the 14" saws on the market these days.  Saw manufacturers seem to forget there are other woods out there besides pine.

For blades I've had very good luck with 6 TPI hook/skip blades.  Matter of fact after the first year that's the only ones I've ever ordered.  DO NOT use the junk they sell at Sears, etc.  After using a decent blade (and paying less for them), I won't even look at a hardware store blade.

[ChuckC]

I have a Sears 12" with a 1 HP motor and find it fine...except for the blade guides, which I am in process of replacing.   I am not a profesional builder or tradesman so I use it only in my home shop.

Dale...be careful of that Sears 14" that is  / was on sale just recently.  the one with a 99 3/4 inch blade.  That blade size is not really well carried by Sears and is more expensive than any of their other blades.  Fact is, we looked on the internet at REAL blade suppliers and found, out of two or three we reviewed, NOBODY carried a 99 3/4 inch blade.   I would run away from anything that I had to order custom made blades for.

Like Jeff said...Sears blades are....well OK for soft wood , a few times.  They will be junk the first time you cut fiberglass.  I know this from experience.
ChuckC

[Dale Hajas]

Thank You guys!

[mmgrode]

Definitely go with the 14" especially for selfbows. Take care, Matt

[Dale Hajas]

A Delta at Lowes is cheaper by about $50 but had a longer blade around 103 to 105 +. These blades would be easier to come by then I supose??

I'm going to look at this 12" tomorrow. It's 2 years old and the guy is recovering from heart surgery performed last year. How used can it be then?

Again Thank You for the input!

[Gene Langston]

I'd go with the Delta 14" for sure.  

The longer the blade the more teeth cutting, and the easier the cut.  Also, the more powerful the motor the better.  

I had a 12" table bandsaw, but found it pretty useless on hard wood.  I gave it away.

A 12" saw with a really powerful motor might work, but you'd have to rig it up yourself, since they don't make them.  (That I know of.)  And it would still eat blades...as I recall, they're a lot shorter than a 14" saw.

Best place to get blades is from someone who makes them...they use better steel and will custom make them to the length needed.  If you live in or near a pretty big town, I'm sure there is someone around there who will make you the blade you want.

I used wide blades for splicing. I think a 14" saw will take a 1/2 wide blade, but can't remember.  My saw is at my sister's house; don't have a place for one where I live now.

[John Scifres]

I have used an old 12" Craftsman for a whole bunch of bows.  I wouldn't hesitate to buy an older American made 12" again if it were cheap enough.  Mine uses an 80" blade and is 1/2HP.  A good blade is much more important than you think.  I can get through 4" of seasoned osage with a good blade.  It might take a bit longer than a bigger saw but I'm not a pro so I'm in no big hurry.

The new smaller, consumer Craftsmans are crap.  Don't do it. They have a couple "Industrial" models that go for about $400-$500 that will be OK.  But for that you can get a Grizzly which I think is a better saw.  

Stay away for the crap Delta's sold at Lowe's.  They are no better than the Craftsmans.  Now the higher end Delta's...mmmmmmm...they are nice.

[Dale Hajas]

Again Thanks guys! John That's what I was thinking about this 12". If it has the 1 hp motor I'll be interested.

[John Scifres]

If it's just 2 years old, it falls in the crap category.  I have one here at work purchased about 2 years ago.  Stay away...stay far away!  

I bought mine off a eBa[y].  It was made in 1975.  The older Craftsmans are good.  If you are willing to drive a little to pick things up, you can get great deals on mongo bandsaws on there.

[Rusty in Fla.]

I had a fellow tell me once that when he had a cabinet shop most of his tools were made by "Grizzly." He said they would take the abuse of some of the beginners he was forced to hire and keep on going.
   I  have a 35 year old Rockwell that would cut an Abrams tank in two.

    Rusty <><

[Jeremy]

I was just going to suggest Grizzly!

[Dale Hajas]

I just went to the Grizzly site and found these:

 http://www.grizzly.com/products/mach-specs.aspx?key=420

Heck I live in Pa and I'm gonna be travelin across state this weekend already!

I never would've believed that they'd be cheaper than a craftsman... Thanks again folks ya'll save me some change!!

[jimneye]

Dale, I have the 14"ultimate grizzly and it will do everything you need it to.  The Grizzly blades have also served me well.

[Gene Langston]

Mine is a 14" Grizzly, and it cost a lot less than a Delta.

It's a pretty good basic saw...mine was the last of the line, so they've improved them a lot, I'm sure.  Mine looks about like a Delta did at the time, and I'm sure they've changed things around a lot.  The reason I got it so cheap is because it was the end of the model line.

It just takes a little bit longer to set up the saw than for a Delta.  Mine doesn't have the bells and whistles that make set up easy.  Maybe the new ones do.

But I made a lot of bows with that saw.  I had to replace the capacitor after a couple of years or so. The motor is rated higher than the actual output (3/4 hp, if I remember, but that's pretty optimistic) and if I ever have to replace it, I'm going to get a rebuilt American made motor.  With a little more zip.

The best thing you can do for your bandsaw is get a pair of cool blocks for the blade guide, if they're not already equipped.  Probably they come with them, but they used to come with metal blocks, even Deltas.  Steel blocks heat up the blade a lot and if you push the blade back or twist it just a little it will get into the blocks and dull them.

Cool blocks are synthetic and resist heat better.

I probably sound like an old geezer on saws, but I bought mine in 1993 or so, and that's the way they were back then.

[skeaterbait]

I recently purchased a 12" Craftsman and am quite happy with it. I have cut through hickory and osage staves without any issues and quite a few hickory and purple heart boards, all with the supplied Sears blade. No complaints from me.

[JBiorn]

Don't be afraid of Ryobi tools. I don't have a Ryobi band saw, but I have a whole truckload of other Ryobi's. I have been EXTREMELY satisfied with them. In fact my Ryobi 18volt drill/driver has outlasted two Ridgids on our project.


 Jeff

[Dale Hajas]

Again Thanks to all!

For years I worked in an aluminum fab shop, then on to a high tech plastics and lignostone shop. The band saws I used in both places were old Delta's, much much stronger than the ones sold at Lowes. The most prominent tools that took abuse were Mukita and Ryobi.

Now I work in a steel mill. We were using DeWalt hand grinders daily. They would last not more than 3 months, and replacement was extremely costly. My boss now orders hand grinders from Harbor Freight for about $10 ea. Replacement is very in- expensive. 8 new grinders for the price of one DeWalt. We use them to cut high grade stainless steel coil- .25 dia to .790 dia.

I also looked at a Rigid saw at Home Depot and was the least impressed with it. I believe tho there is a lifetime warranty from HD/Rigid.

I'm going to get one of those Grizzly's.

Again I appreciate you thoughts!

[John Scifres]

Get the Grizzly GO555.  They sell on eBa[y for a few bucks cheaper directly from Grizzly BTW.

Just an FYI, there is a Craftsman just like mine on eBa[y right now that'll go for less than $100.  It's in New Jersey.  Item #140086730660.

[Dale Hajas]

Thanks John!