learning lessons

[beaver#1]

well, i sarted on my first ever wood arrows this week.  i sealed them tapered put nocks and a field points form a test kit from 3 rivers.   they acually looked ok, i mean they were not like some i have seen on here but i was proud that i acually got that far with no problems.  well i took them out the next day.   the very first arrow hit the target, broke in half, and sent the broke half 25ft. in the air.   im not happy with my work at this point.  next shot did fine. then the next shot did the same thing the first one did.  now im really upset,  chewing myslef out for even trying something different than the same thing i have always shot(which is carbon arrows).  well i got to looking at my set-up.  i noticed my nock point on the string was way high even for my regulars which is higher than most ive seen. (no idea how it got that high).   so i moved it down and things went fine from then on.  \\  the shafts are 55/60 spined cedar from 3rivers.  and the 125gr. tip worked great.  that only thing is that total weight was 525grains.  i like to shoot 600+ arrows.   so here is the questioin.  how much spine would i have to go up to get a 190gr. point to work.  i know that there are alot of things that adds up but just in your opinion.  

thanks,
Beaver

[702plmo]

What is your draw weight and draw length.

[beaver#1]

56@28in is what the bow is.  i pull about 29

[beaver#1]

also these are uncut shafts

[beaver#1]

ttt

[Don Stokes]

Beaver, what type of bow is it, i.e. recurve, longbow, fiberglass backed or self, R/D or narrow straight-limbed?  What type and relative diameter of string? All of those things can affect the spine you need. Unless you're shooting a self bow, you're probably under. Not everyone fits the average, but this has been my experience.

When you go up in spine, you will also probably go up in shaft weight at the same time. When you get the right spine going for field points, you might have to go up another 5# for heavy broadheads.

[beaver#1]

thanks for the input