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Author Topic: Tiller top limb  (Read 493 times)

Offline longbawl

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Tiller top limb
« on: August 06, 2008, 07:49:00 AM »
Hi I just built my first bow. i made the limbs even length with 3/16 pos. tiller top. After doing a search on this. I wonder if i should make my top limb 1" longer.  And if i do and want a 62" bow do you measure from the center of the riser. And make the top limb 32" an the bottom 30. Or split the difference top 1/2 longer bottom 1/2 shorter. On the bow i built the shelf is 1 1/4 above center. Here is a link if it works To what the bow looks like.  http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=062381;p=1#000004
Thanks for any help Joe

Offline Glenn Newell

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2008, 03:48:00 PM »
Joe when you make a bow of equal length limbs you generally need to have 3/16 negative tiller or a stiffer upper limb. The reason for this is that you normally grip the bow with your middle finger of your bow hand on the centre of the bow which means your arrow will be 1&1/4" above centre which inturn means your string length from the arrow is 2&1/2" shorter to the top string nock than the bottom nock placing more pressure on the top limb, so you need to stiffen the top limb. When you positive tiller an equal length bow the top limb will take more set, it's telling you it needs it needs to be strengthened.
Next time you can measure the distance from the middle finger of your bow hand to the index finger and shorten the bottom limb by that measurement and that will bring the static balance point and the dynamic balance point of your bow closer together and positive tiller that bow...Glenn...

Offline Jacko

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2008, 04:32:00 PM »
Fancy who you meet on Trad Gang - How are you Glenn .

I agree with Glenn . Negative tiller for equal length limbs .

regards Perry
"To my deep mortification my father once said to me, 'You care for nothing but shooting, dogs and rat- catching, and you will be a disgrace to yourself and all your family.'"

-Charles Darwin

Offline DCM

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #3 on: August 06, 2008, 04:41:00 PM »
This message purposely left blank.  Sorry guys, thought I had something to contribute.

Offline longbawl

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2008, 05:59:00 PM »
Thanks Glenn So I need to make the bottom limb 1 1/2 shorter i measured center to center of my fingers. But to keep a 62" bow would i need to split the difference Or start with a 64" bow out of the press and just cut off the bottom limb. Also would tapers make any difference.

Offline Glenn Newell

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #5 on: August 07, 2008, 04:36:00 AM »
No mate, what I would do is start out with your 62" bow stave, mark the centre and then mark half of the 1 1/2" which is 3/4" above centre and make that the centre of your handle, that will give you an 1 1/2 shorter bottom limb...Glenn...

Offline Glenn Newell

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #6 on: August 07, 2008, 04:39:00 AM »
How are you going Perry, I'm going well at this stage, I will have to get out for a hunt...Glenn...

Offline Auzoutdoor

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #7 on: August 07, 2008, 07:53:00 AM »
No Glenn you need to be in the shed making a takedown Defiant.LOL
Cheers KIM
Australian Outdoor and Archery

Offline longbawl

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #8 on: August 07, 2008, 10:06:00 AM »
Got ya, When i read about making one limb longer. I thought what. But i understand what your talking about now. Thats what i did when i made my bow i just didnt know i did.LOL Thank you very much and have a great day

Offline Glenn Newell

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #9 on: August 07, 2008, 03:00:00 PM »
Longbawl a bow with a shorter bottom limb will feel better to shoot as the dynamic and static points are closer togehter whereas when a bow with equal length limbs are made with a stiffer bottom limb they are pushed further apart which puts the limbs out of time with each other.
Kim I am still thinking about the take downs, have a few bows on the go right now...Glenn...

Offline BenBow

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #10 on: August 07, 2008, 03:14:00 PM »
Glad someone had the guts to suggest that a bow should be negative tillered. There are some great high speed videos showing how the bottom limb moves so much further before the top limb ever gets started on a positive tillered bow. The videos really show how the out of time limbs make the bow buck in the hand (hand shock) and the bow string whips up and down. Also you can see how the nocking point pushes the nock end of arrow down on release.
I've done some testing with my test bow and with a 1/8" negative tiller the bow is much quieter when shooting 3 under. A 1/4" negative is even better but I've been so steeped in the old way I have a hard time going that much.
But his bow will remain steady, and his hands will be skillful; because of the hands of the Mighty One of Jacob, because of the Shepherd, the Rock of Israel,  (Genesis 49:24 [NETfree])

Offline Glenn Newell

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #11 on: August 07, 2008, 03:38:00 PM »
Thanks Ben, I have written articles for magazines in Australia about bow design for negative and positive tillered bows and have been dragged over the coals for it. I even had a 27 page article written about me and why I am wrong and then they diagnosed as being bi-polar for going against the trend.
This bussiness of placing a tiller board in the centre of the bow and then drawing the bow down from the centre is a complete waste of time, the bow must be placed on a tiller board where the hand will hold the bow and then drawn from where you will draw the bow on the string, be it three under or split fingers, then and only then will the correct tiller be seen, let the bow tell you what it needs and you will have a sweet shooting bow. If you change your hand placement on the bow or the string then tiller needs to be adjusted...Glenn...

Offline BenBow

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #12 on: August 07, 2008, 08:22:00 PM »
Glenn I'm in total agreement. Hang in there it's hard for many to accept change. It messes with their security blanket. I am amazed there hasn't been any derogatory remarks on this thread. One can only hope it stays reasonable.
But his bow will remain steady, and his hands will be skillful; because of the hands of the Mighty One of Jacob, because of the Shepherd, the Rock of Israel,  (Genesis 49:24 [NETfree])

Offline DCM

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #13 on: August 08, 2008, 10:07:00 AM »
Negative tiller is not desirable on any design because it forces the arrow into the rest on the power stroke.

When this idea was first published, to my knowledge, it was in the context of a selfbow and I got the impression the ideas were solely those of the author.  I commented publicly that I didn’t understand how negative tiller could ever work.  Some time after that he and I had a long discussion privately by email, at his invitation, over the course of days or weeks and I thought came to a resolution on the issue of negative tiller, essentially that his ideas were misinterpreted.  

My position is this.  Tiller is required to offset the asymmetry inherent in having to draw a bow string above the fulcrum of the bow hand.  It has the effect of shortening the upper limb, ones string hand simply must grasp higher on the string because you can't shoot an arra through your bow hand.  The common workaround is to stiffen the lower limb, which has the effect of shortening it in terms of its spring action.  Not surprisingly, simply shortening the length lower limb has exactly the same effect even if the spring strength is made constant with the upper, i.e. no more or less positive tiller.  So, the logical conclusion is that shorter lower and stiffer lower (positive tiller) are interchangeable.  They have the same effect and can be used in any combination.  

We find this in practice, with all current production bows and countless examples from antiquity.  Not surprisingly, shorter upper and negative tiller are not well represented in either category.  The published scientific study of the bow and arrow supports the positive tiller paradigm, predominantly Kooi as related by Tapley.       http://www.goarchers.org.uk/mechanics/       My experience with seflbowyering over the last 10 years or so supports this position as well.  In general, when I shorten a lower limb I can use less positive tiller and still get good arrow flight with modest nock point setting and a balanced (in terms of stresses upon the limbs) bow.

I don’t think the author of this idea ever intended to propose bows be made with shorter upper limbs and negative tiller.  Rather the opposite, that bows be made with longer upper as an alternative to weaker upper.  Makes a heck of a lot of sense actually, why make the upper weaker and thus more strained when you could just as easily use shorter lower?  Why use imbalanced spring action when you can use geometry instead, or in combination with less imbalanced spring action?  He simply wanted to counter the modern renaissance idea of a “symmetrical” bow, where arrow pass is placed 2” above dimensional center, is desirable or well balanced.  When in fact this design exaggerates unnecessarily the inherent asymmetry cited above.
 
My purpose here is not to debate this question.  I’ve resolved the issue for myself, completely.  My purpose is only to present another perspective, the accepted dogma for millennia actually, for those who may follow.  I think its incumbent upon me.  I have a large personal investment in the craft.  It’s been very good to me personally.  Others have invested a great deal of time and energy and materials even, very generously, helping me to understand and use the underlying physics and principles and to be a better bowyer, to promote the craft.  So I’m happy to help those who follow in my footsteps, obliged to even.  Misinformation or misinterpreted information does nothing but harm.  But it’s a task I honestly do not relish because more than likely some or most who disagree will see me as the antagonist, malicious even.  They already have said so.

Offline Glenn Newell

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #14 on: August 08, 2008, 04:57:00 PM »
"Negative tiller is not desirable on any design because it forces the arrow into the rest on the power stroke."

DCM, I believed this to and never doubted it, I made all of my selfbows and laminated bow this way without question but since 2000 I made one of my equal length limb selfbows with negative tiller and couldn't believe the differance it made. The bow took even set, shot much smoother and I have never had any problems with accuracy with a negative tillered equal length limb bow. Even in a laminated fibreglass bow the differance is very noticble and again I have never had any issues at all with arrow flight off the shelf or hand.
It easy to put this to the test, just make two equal length limb bows exactly the same and negative tiller one and positive tiller the other and see what you think. For me there is no way would I ever tiller an equal length limb bow with poitive tiller again...Glenn...

Offline BenBow

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #15 on: August 08, 2008, 09:29:00 PM »
I found that because I didn't use a high wrist grip the fulcrum moved down an 1" or more which put more stress on the lower limb causing it to be much stiffer so the dynamic tiller was different from the static tiller causing the arrow to actually be driven down into the rest. BTW I thank all involved in this thread for their respectful handling of a controversial subject.
But his bow will remain steady, and his hands will be skillful; because of the hands of the Mighty One of Jacob, because of the Shepherd, the Rock of Israel,  (Genesis 49:24 [NETfree])

Offline TNstickn

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #16 on: August 08, 2008, 10:20:00 PM »
Benbow, could you post were I could see the vids you speak of. Very interested, wish I had something to offer other than curiosity. Having a hard time grasping, especially comparing selfbow and glass bow. A glass bow test might work given more control over limb materials being the same. However, I dont think you could compare a all wood self bow, even two bows from the same stave would be different,grain patterns, copression diffs., pores in the growth rings. To much changes every inch of a stave to compare one end to the other. I would absolutely love to hear from someone with an adjustable tiller bow like a DAS owner. Very, very interesting    :saywhat:   What say ye owners of the adjustable tiller, surely we've got someone on here thats "tried it all".
Pick a spot.>>>>-------> Shoot straight.

Offline Auzoutdoor

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #17 on: August 09, 2008, 03:07:00 AM »
I have not made many bows compared to others on this site prob about ten but since I changed my tiller tree to support the bow as the bow hand does and then draw the tiller string off centre like when the bow is shot I have halved the time I spend tillering.My argument is that if at full draw set up like this the limbs bend the same that is the best it can be for shooting it also.I have never got into the pos. neg thing as it made for way to much thinking but when I tiller my bows this way on my new tree when I take them off the tree they are stiffer in the top limb every time often a fair bit too.So I guess in my eyes it goes to prove the neg tiller concept.
Cheers KIM
Australian Outdoor and Archery

Offline Glenn Newell

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #18 on: August 09, 2008, 04:20:00 AM »
The negative-positive tiller theory depends on the hand placement on the bow and where the arrow is knocked, chance those positions and tiller will change when the bow is being drawn regardless of the type of bow, laminated or selfbow. A laminated glass will not bite you as quickly as a selfbow will...Glenn...

Offline BenBow

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #19 on: August 09, 2008, 07:55:00 AM »
search high speed archery videos
But his bow will remain steady, and his hands will be skillful; because of the hands of the Mighty One of Jacob, because of the Shepherd, the Rock of Israel,  (Genesis 49:24 [NETfree])

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