Alaska residents PLEASE READ BUT DO NOT RESPOND IN THREAD

[celticknot]

I have 2 questions. I was wondering what type of boots you use for mountain and high country hunting. I prefer a high heel logger or cowboy boot style heel. Question #2 I plan to move to Alaska with in the next 4-5 years aslong as everything goes ok. I plan on living in the wilderness on a piece of land i purchase after living and working for around 2 years in Alaska. I was wonder if i could ask for your knowledge. On subjects such as agriculture, hunting, fishing, climate, just any general or wild knoledge your willing to share. I dont want to die my first winter in the wild. Thank you for your time.

[str8jct]

Are things that bad in Ohio?  Actually, I tried to talk the Mrs into moving last year-she said no, so forgive my jealousy and good luck.

[Paul Mattson]

I lived in AK for 15 yrs.  North Pole near Fairbanks.  Winters are very hard, cold and dark.  -40 for weeks on end with -60 at times.
Some summers are hot, and the air is filled with smoke just like living next to a giant camp fire.

If you plan on buying land, it will be expensive, you do not buy hunting land in AK.  You will also need a river boat or wheeler.  

It takes a year before you can buy a resident hunting lic.  Be prepared to spend some cash and do some traveling to get to that hunting spot.  

It can and will be a very rewarding way of life.  I would be still up there, but the wife got tired of the cold and dark.  But, My son still lives in North Pole so I still get up there every other year to do some hunting and fishing.

[Izzy]

Read Into The Wild if you can stand it.It will save you some heartache.As long as youll be living there for a while youll be able to speak to long time residents before you go into the bush.Theyve been there and done that and will probably be glad to help.Good luck on your adventure.

[Muskoxman]

I was born and raised up here around the Palmer area (about 50 miles northeast of Anchorage) been farming here all my life. When I was younger I wanted to move out real remote and live the simple life. I trapped for  7 years out of a cabin about 70 miles off the road. Well after about 5 days at a time in the cabin alone I was about to go nuts. If you could get an old lady that wanted to do it also I think that would be the best. The only guys I know that live that way alone smoke a lot of dope. As far as agriculture its tough these cold years you might not get enough spuds grown to last the winter. Of coarse hunting and fishing can be good depends on location. You'd have to rely on an air charter to bring you supplies. Its not like that  movie into the wild, that guy just wanted to kill himself.  Oh the boots I like a sturdy lace up leather boot like mendels perfect hiker. Had a lot of cheapo boots go to pieces in the mountains. Its like they say you pay for what you get. I'd look at western Alaska heres a guys website  http://www.alaska-land.com/rural.htm

hope this helps,  John

[Steve H.]

I use Koflach plastic boots for the most serious mountain hunting, Mendels for the hills and have used Hoffman caulks (steel spikes) a bit too in the heavy timbered zones.

I don't know you but it sounds like you likley have a unrealistic, romanticized idea that's not likley to go well.

What about coming up for a season job (there are plenty) and then getting a feel for what is here?  

Most importantly, what is your skill set?

[j.j.johnston]

I've been here for 33 yrs.  Came up with the army, got on with the state troopers, worked in the bush as well as in Anchorage.  Popping up to live in the wildreness is not a good plan.  Depending on your skills, I would suggest finding work in a town, then looking for work in more remote areas, and easing your way out.  There are few jobs in the real remote areas, and most of the land is tied up in federal, state, and native corp. lands.  I would suggest a lot of research before the move.  There are some websites for jobs in Alaska that you might check out.  As far as boots, just find a pair that would work well walking from Maine to California and that should cover the terrain you can expect to encounter.  As far as the suggested reading above, it is fiction, except for the part about the fool dying.  I do not want to sound negative, but I have had to do body recoveries and search and rescues on many who deciede to "go bush".

[John/Alaska]

This isended up being a longer rant then I expected so here goes:

I generally agree with what has been said above and especially with Steve's recommendation of coming up for seasonal work first. The biggest task you will have is picking the area in Alaska that you would want to try this romantic adventure. Climate varies greatly throughout our tiny state and will play a big part in your comfort and ability to try to live off of the land. You'll be faced with questions like: Do you want to live on or just off of the road system? or fly in?, or on one of the river systems for boat access? And then factor in winter access which may have to be by snogo if practical if you don't fly. Then figure in the cost of flying if that is the thing that you are interested in and I mean for transportation and freighting. Next task would be building the cabin. Are you going to do it out of local logs or stick build. Again the transportation question comes in for hauling materials. How are you going to get a wood stove in? Barrel or fabricated? Lots of ??? here.

In many parts of Alaska you can't easily just live off the land such as where I live unless you are near a salmon river because hunting isn't that easy or game that plentiful so you'll have to figure in groceries & such. Heat? Wood you say okay be sure that you have enough accessible wood around and don't forget that you'll need chain saw gas along with atleast two saws and triple replacement parts plus two of everything such a saxes or splitting mauls. At my house (not cabin) I typically burn between 5-7 cords/year but have about double that for when it stays chilly for a long spell. It's not unusual to consume 10-12 if the weather stays ugly. You better have a nice source of income and not be too dependent on medical care eiher as that is few and far between. Do you plan to trap? If so be sure and use the carcasses for food to save $$.

I have spent lots of time in the wilds here over the years and still like doing that romantic adventure thingy that you want. But I have learned much about myself over the years doing it and know what it takes. Yes I can do it but I don't want to full time. I have a cabin that is just off of the road system that I built & still am working on with caribou & moose around. I had to build a trail in but its only good for hiking on or taking a wheeler in and then even then it can be challenging. I chose the location as it is somewhat remote but yet accessible to the road system which becomes important at my advance age. Even though I have great timber there I choose to stick build it(Its called the cabin that dewalt built). That required a bunch of time freighting & packing by myself and includes dumping several loads of materials when I screwed up going in. But its faster then drying & peeling logs and trying to muscle those logs by yourself. I'll be happy to never have to chink a log again! You will have to plan the time of year for construction as its short and keep in ming that logs require drying time. Don't forget your source of water. Year round? or will you have to cut river ice or melt snow? Yes I could live at that cabin as it was build for year round use or more remotely at in one of my extended family's many cabins. But I prefer to live here in the big city of Tok and just venture out when my mood feels like it or stay in when the 70 belows hit. As it is I can just jump on my wheeler or sngo and head out. I also am some what social and get tired of just talking to myself and like the friendship of my pals every once in a while.

Anyway ask any ?? that you would like and I'll answer them if I can. Oh I'm going up there tomorrow with my bow as caribou is open there and there are some grouse just begging to be shot. So on of my 55# bows with a mix of broadheads and blunts is going up with me and hopefully things will work out that will let me shot some arrows. I also want to finish some wiring on my electrical system (solar) so that I can have 110 lighting this fall. It now run my dvd player and that keeps me company when I'm up there by myself. Yep getting lazy I guess and tired of lantern light or the sound of the creek or silence (all of which I do love).

[BobW]

"Descent To Madness" (Michael Oros story) comes to mind here....

[Bill Sant]

Yeah it can be cold.......and the days of winter short (5 hours), but after reading posts of you guys outside complaining of too many hunters or having to buy/lease a place to go, or pay to shoot a ranch or farm I'm going to stay here forever.
    Many people that romanticise about living here just don't realize what alone can be , if you live bush.  Believe me it takes a RARE and special type of individual.  You can only win so many arguments with yourself before talking to oneself becomes the norm....then watch out.
    You do not need to go bush to get to the wilderness.  Drive 40 miles or less and walk away from the road and you are there.  Alaska doesn't have section lines and access roads every square mile to get you home if you get turned around.  At my cabin off the Richardson hghy. if you walk the wrong way you'll go 180 miles before you cut a road.
   Sounds like John and myself have run a parallel coarse and have the best of both worlds.  Stay at the cabin as long as you wish, I am retired,  and then go back to Anchorage and be able to get the wingnut that I need at the local home depot, or run out to dinner if that turns your crank.  You don't need to commit to one lifestyle.
    Game animals don't live behind every tree, but a guy that can make friends won't have any trouble getting info on where to go.  It is a land of extremes to be sure, but you won't hear a highway in the background from where you hunt like so many of the so called hunting shows that are aired on TV.  I know that it's not all bad outside so don't bombard this thread with It's not that way.  Live up here a while and see what you think of paying to hunt.  It's hard for us to understand.
    We welcome new friends, as our state is big enough to share with one or two more of you.  Need info;...let me know I'll help if I can.  Bill

[Coldfingers]

Ditto on most of the above.

My first winter with my wife of 33 years comes to mind.

After a small fire (trailers go quick!) we took a job taking care of a lodge for the winter. Nestled deep in the Wrangles, fly in only, "the young adventurers dream". Supposed to have weekly "air support" (mail, groceries, contact in case of medical emergencies.

After the first week, we did not see da plane for two and a half months! Temps got down around minus 65 to 72 and stayed there. LOTS of wood got burned. We pretty much lived on Krustez pankakes and meat left by the fall hunting clients. Did I say we burned lots of wood? We also burned lots of wood. I spent most of my hunting time looking for wood to burn...

The country is VAST and the game can be soooo sparse, especially when the big chill clamps down.

I will say that life at that time was very, very simple. There were only two questions in mind....

"Will it burn or should I eat it?"

Well maybe three questions..."Where IS that darn plane!!"

All kidding aside, we had a good winter, trapped some fur, burnt some wood and managed to eat a half ton of pankakes. My wife to be was quite pregnant come springtime. Shoulda chopped more firewood I guess...

I do get out to the bush and hit my favorite spots to live the good life. Then I go back to my little home close to civilization where I do not have to chop quite as much wood (big lie there!)

Gardening is a hit or miss deal.

Boots? Five different pair. Bunny boots, rubber boots, leather boots, mukluks, Merrils, and my summertime wading shoes (I see some more lurking by the woodpile too.

In a week or so, I will load my 19 foot Grumman with gear and fuel, drive an hour or so, launch, and be "in the bush" just in time to chop some wood to make the teepee warm and perhaps cook up a pancake or two...

My best,

Scotty

[Talondale]

 This thread brings back memories of my two summers in North Pole.  I can't add much because I skiddadled out of there before the real cold came.  Some great fishing and moose seemed to be plentiful, almost hit a few with my truck.  I left a 65 mustang up there (long story).  Good luck.

[celticknot]

herkimerhunter
I  have read alone in the wilderness about richard prinneke I have also read into the wild. Thank you though. I know itll be tough but i have to atleast try this has been the way i have wanted to live my life since i was around 8 years old

[celticknot]

Steve h
Im sure i have romantisized somehtings in my head. But i also know the harsh cruel reality of Alaska i know the winters are dark and mind numbing cold ive been in minnesotta  in -30 and it was +11 in fairbanks I do not intend to come to the "real" wilderness without making sure i have as many bases covered as possible. I have been researching alsaka as well asi can from this distence for many years. I have books on the wild edible and poisinous plants i have books on wilderness medicines and i also understand i trake a huge risk on dying if i dont learn as much as possible and watch every step. By the way im an electrician and i plan on coming up to work as one for at least 2 years before i go in to the wilderness alone. My plan is to come up and get my electrical license and work for 2 years while learning about everything that i can that will help me survive in the wild. I really do appreciate your concern. And hopefully it will set back the romantisized feelingds i have put in my head. I know its going to be back breaking work everyday. but i would rather get something out of my work than just a pay check. Thanks again

[Steve H.]

I suspect you could score a job readily as an electrician.  A very good idea to come get your feet wet...wait that is a bad thing as a "Sparky", LOL....before you dive into the bush.

Don't forget the contractors that work on the pipeline and the mines all have many electricians if you search for a job.

[celticknot]

bill sant and coldfingers,
Thank you,I really appreciate the lack of bashing my dream. To all the other doubting thomas's, no offense intended. This is not about just hunting for me.  As much as i dont like to use guns to hunt they will be my main source of food and if i have time, ill  bring out the longbow for leasure hunting.  Like i said its not about the longbow hunting. Im not legolis.  I have wanted to live this life since i was 8. I dont fit in this world of lost morals and lack of honor. I have always done everything the hard way. Working my "donkey" off does not bother me a bit. Id rather break my back and die at 40 than live till 80 and know i could have worked harder for a better life. I know im only 26 "almost" but if i dont live for me instead of for the JOB,CAR,HOUSE,CELL PHONE,CABLE TV,COMPUTER,and everthing else i dont want or need, then what life will i have lived if i dont even try. God gave me this life and he made that land and damn it im going to go see and live with what he gave me.  Please dont put down my dream if its horrible i can always move away if i survive, and the thought of death does not bother me. I know its possible and thats a risk im willing to take. All im asking is will you help me out so i take less of a chance at dying. Your knowledge and help is power that will maybe help save a life. Thank you again and i will deffenatly be asking alot more questions.

[Steve H.]

Just suggesting you maybe get a job up here and "stage" prior to full emersion.  That way you can sort out where you want to go in this monster-sized piece of real estate and make proper logistics, it will provide you your best chance of success versus going in ill prepared.  If nothing else you may get to where you get a PFD check and have financing for a trip in and out of the bush each year to get a few supplies.

[Steve H.]

Alaska DNR offers homestead-type tracks by lottery/bid every year that have development requirements.  Other occupancy of public lands is not legal, usually 14 days is the limit.  That said, if I was looking to get as far away, I would look along the extreme eastern edge/Yukon border and S. of The Porcupine River.

[Archie]

I lived in Alaska until I was 29 years old. I love it, and dream of going back someday.  I lived in Fairbanks, and spent lots of time all over the state, hunting, fishing, canoeing, hiking, camping.

Alaska is very unforgiving country.  In a lot of places, a bad decision can make you pretty uncomfortable.  But in Alaska it can kill you.  I've read a lot of stories about people in the paper who fought nature and lost.

I recommend that you go there, get a job, enjoy it as most of its outdoorsmen do.  You may find that's enough to satisfy that bug you've got, and in a less extreme way.

[Rick P]

Dear Celticknot

 I was going to keep my mouth shut on this but.....Seriously take the advice of folks who have posted, they live in Alaska's garden spots!

Spend 6 weeks grounded due to weather in Togiak with no way out in October some time and then talk about living "off the grid." And for those of you who just said "ohhh yha" well Most of Alaska has 1/4 the game population density of the lower 48, and In Togiak there is nothing bigger than a lemming to hunt for 6 months of the year!

Keep in mind that for over 10,000 years no native lived in the interior of Alaska for more than 2 months out of the year. (excluding south eastern sorry guys your part of BC) And the parts of Alaska along the coast have been locked up since 1950.

Can one still live off the land?... well no, Alaska won't provide salt or bullets, and she loves to drop below -60 in the winter. Pam Anderson and crew destroyed the fur market so you wont even be able to get the cash for ammo to keep your family fed. I have some really good freinds who have lived in the bush for 35 years.....the only way they can manage it is that they are both artists and they have to travel out to sell there work periodically.