What makes a good string?

[Steve Kendrot]

In the past year, I've begun twisting my own strings with B-50. I guess I've made 5 or 6 now and the mystery fades quickly after the first one or two. The question I have is, how do you evaluate the quality of a finished string? I've recently seen a few posts referencing, "good strings" or "Great string makers".  What should I be looking for in my own work to tell if I am making decent strings. What are the characteristics. My guesses would be, consistent twists, tight loop merges, and limited stretch after initial stretching period. How do you avoid the fraying tag ends sticking out of the string at the merge areas after the loop join? If you can't avoid those, can you burn them off without damaging the string? How long do you let it stretch before serving? Is stretching it on the braced bow good enough or is it better to tension off the bow with weights or come-along straps? What tricks might a newby like me be missing? I haven't noticed any shooting issues with the strings I have made. How do you pad the loops when using high performance strings on non FF bows?

Appreciate any feedback.

[LBR]

It's hard for me to put into words--I can look at a string and give my opinion better, but I'll give it a shot.

A nice, round string is one thing I always notice.  You don't want a string that looks like two snakes mating.  Tight twists in the loops, and no slack where the loop comes together.  Not too many twists in the string, and not too few.

I trim the tags off, but usually a few pop out sooner or later--just trim them off again if it bugs you.

I have a jig I pre-stretch my strings on, and it works great to hold them taut for serving.  For me, it works better and faster leaving it strung on a bow or hanging weights from it.

The biggest "trick" I know of that most folks leave off it back twist, which is the difference between a string that's nice and round, and one that's not.

I don't reccomend using a FF type material on a bow that's not made for it, regardless of how much padding is used.  I do pad the loops on FF type materials for FF bows though.  That's pretty simple.  I add strands that are about 14" long to the ends of the bundles--wax helps hold them in place while you work.  It's that easy--just add the same amount to each bundle.

Hope that helps.

Chad

[Steve Kendrot]

That does help Chad. I noticed on a string I just made that my twists on one side of the loop are tighter than on the other side. Not alot, but noticable. Longer fingers would be helpful! What is back twist? When I'm twisting the loops, I roll each bunch several times towards me before braiding bottom over top. Is the rolling the back twist you refer to?

What does your string jig look like? Sounds like a good idea. I hate tying up my bow while I'm waiting for a string to stretch.

[aromakr]

Steve:
When the string is finished, put it on the bow and wax it, using a piece of leather burnish the string causing the wax to melt and the string to heat up. Now sit down and place the riser on your lap, grap both limb tips and push down. This will stretch the string all that is needed. Now serve it and shoot. A string is going to continue to stretch some for a few days, just check the brace heigth and adjust.

[billy on the road]

while we're at it...how many strands is too few in a 'good' flemish string? can a good string be 12 strands?
i'm following along here cause i'd like to make my own but; with carbons off a 40 year old recurve, "normal" store bought strings are a bit thick...

[LBR]

After you finish your first loop, there will be several twists in the bundles.  Count how many twists it takes to get the bundles hanging straight, then put that same number back in, but in the opposite direction--that is back twist.  After you finish your second loop, your bundles should be straight again (or very close).  That will allow the bundles to go together as one nice, round, smooth string when you twist it up.

My stretching jig is made from square tubing.  Basically two "L" pieces, one fitting inside the other for length adjustment.  Drill a hole or two, weld a nut over the hole, then add a bolt to lock it in place at the desired length.  A screw hook on each end is used to hang the loops over, then tighten down on those to put tension on.  Works great, and you won't need a different bow for every length string.

I've burnished strings with leather myself, but the manufacturer's strongly recommend against that--too much heat can damage the material.  The jig shortens the break-in time greatly.

The plans for it are on the DVD "Doin' the Twist", but if you need more info. just shoot me an e-mail and I'll send some pics of mine.

Billy, 12 strands of most any string material is fine--actualy a bit much with some materials.  I'm assuming you are talking about dacron--as long as you aren't pulling over 50#, 12 strands of dacron is fine (it's going to stretch more with a heavier draw weight).

Chad

[Steve Kendrot]

Ahhh... Backtwist is not what I've been doing. I always worked the twists out of the tag ends as I went. I will try your suggestion. Check your PMs Chad. Tx.

Steve

[Carbon Caster]

Prestreching them DOES make a differnce.  It makes for a faster string and for one that won't need the brace adjusted on constantly ot the beginning.  

Chad,

I am hanging weights on mine and want to build a jig to prestrech and serve at 200#.  Could you send me some pics of yours.  I need to get some materials from you as well.  My email address is edmonton4christ (at) shaw.ca.

[LBR]

Brian, pics on the way.

Steve, I didn't get a pm. Try [email protected]

Chad

[NativeArcher]

I recently made one of Chads jigs works great. Great video also. Was just wondering unser what poundage are / do most strings get stretched to.
Ive seen on some comercially available strings saying stretched to 100#. Carbon Caster just listed 200# I was doing about 120#. but what is normal or recommended. thanks all.... matt

[LBR]

AMO specs measure the string with 100# of tension.  I have never measured myself--I just crank down on them with more tension than any bow will ever put on the string, then let most of it off before I measure.  My jig will stretch any material out some.  Dacron will really stretch--have to let the tension off and even let it draw up some before measuring.

Generally it takes some shooting to get every last big of slack out, but the stretcher will speed this up a lot, plus give you a much more accurate string measurement.

Chad

[Art B]

I do mine like Aromakr. That gets most of the stretch out right away. But I also do this each and every time I string my bow.

What about direction of twist and fold, make any difference? My string body ends up twisted in the same direction and the strands. I twist towards me and fold away, make any difference you think?-ART B

[Steelhead]

Another quality that i like in a well made string is that the serving is the right length.You should be able able to put a bow square on the string to check brace hieght and nock point.I like the serving so the bow square sits on the serving and not the string.So the top section of serving needs to be long enough to accomidate the bow square.The bottom part of serving should be long enough to protect the string from string slap for long string life.I get strings sometimes that are served either too short at the top or bottom sometimes for me.