Why use 5" feathers....?

[O.L. Adcock]

Stand out there and see!   ...Whether I miss or hit, you'd never see it coming!    It's bad when I have to use GPS and zip codes to measure the distances....O.L.

[vermonster13]

lol

[pdk25]

Just my ignorance, but has anyone seen or done testing that showed how much and in what manner deer react to the sound of fletching whistling in the wind compared to the thump of the release?

[O.L. Adcock]

pdk25, There used to be some good video of deer ducking the shot but don't know where to find it. Compared to the bows noise, I doubt fletching noise is any significance. A walking deer, assuming it continues to walk, moves 8-14" at 20 yards before our arrows arrive. I can tie a string to a milk jug, stand off to the side, and no one can hit that jug just on my poor reflexes, compounds can't hit it at 25. So beyond about 15 yards, if they want to move we're going to miss or wound....O.L.

[pdk25]

Mr. Adcock, I agree deer can move on the shot.  I just wondered if anyone had done any testing to try to separate noise from the arrow and noise from the bow.  I suspect that noise from the fletching isn't likely to have nearly the reaction from deer that bowstring noise does, but would like to know if any evidence is out there.  I can't remember what video I saw it on, but I think Denny Sturgis Jr. was hunting in africa and shot some animals.  I was amazed how much those animals moved during the shot.  If my memory serves me correctly, the one animal had it's head and shoulders facing almost 180 degrees from their original position by the time the arrow got there.  I know he was using a pretty heavy bow and it wasn't a long shot, but that animal sure was fast.

[bbairborne]

Originally posted by O.L. Adcock:
Stand out there and see!    ...Whether I miss or hit, you'd never see it coming!     It's bad when I have to use GPS and zip codes to measure the distances....O.L.

Too funny but seems to what it is coming to. Especially so if we don't preseve our hunting grounds.

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Trad Rag | com
Stick & String or Cap & Ball | Giveaways
Longbow: ACS-CX 58#@28. Arrow: GT5575 Traditional, 100gr. Brass insert, 125 gr. Magnus 2-blade: 530 gr. total.

[Wary Buck]

I like 5" shield feathers four-fletched...perhaps it's a crutch for less-than-perfect for tuning, but it's a setup that I've had much success with.  Besides, I love the way they look, both in the quiver and with that twirling ball of color headed right toward the boiler room...

I recently shot a 3-D course with a compound-shooting brother who used those tiny mini-vanes.  It was NO FUN whatsoever watching (or should I say trying to watch) his arrows fly.  And friends, that is a big part of why I love archery:  watching those arrows fly downrange.  More than not, he'd shoot and then we'd both say, "Where'd you/I hit?"  What's the fun in that?  And it's downright rotten when it happens when hunting.

Give me a slow trad bow with lots of bright fletch and I'm a happy camper.

[BobW]

It is kind of funny, we call ourselves "Traditional Archers/Hunters", yet will go to the extents of wind tunnel testing to gain that fraction of an edge.....  Dang we are an interesting case study.  

[bentpole]

I use 4-4" feathers,3-5 1/2" feathers  3-5" feathers. Out of my longbows 4-4" seem to fly the best. My Hybrid Longbow likes 3 5 1/2" feathers for some strange reason.My Horne's Traditionalist doesn't really seem to care; shoots anything I knock out of it well.

[Tom Anderson]

Another questiong while we're on the subject of feathers:  Are you likely to get better arrow clearance by using traditional parabolic-shaped fletching rather than high-profile shield?

[O.L. Adcock]

Yep Bob, Back when what we are doing was state of the art and "modern", there was a lot of things we did based on common knowledge (or lack of it) and I have no doubt I have missed and or wounded lots of animals because of it. The good thing about our sport, we can make it as simple or as complex as we like, some enjoy playing with the details.....O.L.

[O.L. Adcock]

Tom, I don't think "shape" has much to do with it. Height would of course. Many have these bows that are 3/16" or more cut past center...those require arrow spines much higher then they should be. Tuning them that close to center makes them less forgiving to our errors making bow contact more of a problem. We're better off to build the side plate out so we have 1 arrow diameter at the tip left of center (rt handed), then find and tune arrows for that....O.L.

[2fletch]

Well, I just came in from the shop where I'd been experimenting a little with fletching. I've been shooting three 5" right wing shields for quiet a while but decided to try the 5,5" high back shields.

First I did a 2 fletch (that being my user name and all) to see how that would fly. Then I did a 4 fletch at 90 degrees with alternate feathers of 5" and 5.5 inch shields. Then I did a 4 fletch at 90 degrees with all 5.5 inch high back shields.  

After shooting them about 10 shots each I saw the following:

The 2 fletch  5.5" was not nearly as accurate at 15 yards. It seemed to take longer to correct, slow to rotate,and it seem to drift.

The 5 and 5.5" combination 4 fletch and the all 5.5" 4 fletched arrows shot the same. They shot accurately but seemed slower - even at 15 yards. They were also louder then my normal 3 fletch 5" arrows.

Conclussion: Time to stop fooling around with 4 fletch 5.5" feathers. It's more fletching then is needed.

Now, how about 4 fletch 4" feathers? That'll be another day

[O.L. Adcock]

2fletch, Yep, tried that 2 fletch once upon a time when I forgot my basic aerodynamics. 2 fletch opposing each other only stabilizes in 1 direction. An arrow can either pitch, yaw, or a combination of both and 2 feathers just won't cut it of any size. I guess if you wrapped them completely around they would be those are called fluflu's!   .......O.L.

[Tom Anderson]

Originally posted by O.L. Adcock:
Tom, I don't think "shape" has much to do with it. Height would of course. Many have these bows that are 3/16" or more cut past center...those require arrow spines much higher then they should be. Tuning them that close to center makes them less forgiving to our errors making bow contact more of a problem. We're better off to build the side plate out so we have 1 arrow diameter at the tip left of center (rt handed), then find and tune arrows for that....O.L.

Oh heck, O.L.....I think you're gonna have to 'splain the "why" about this issue....
If I read you correctly, you're saying that a bow not cut to center is more forgiving of errors? I'm lost....again...

[O.L. Adcock]

Tom, there is a difference between "centershot" and "cut to center" but folks incorrectly interchange the two. Center cut is when you line up the string down the center of the limbs the sight window is even with the string. "Centershot is when you nock an arrow and line the string down the center it cuts the arrow in half down the middle. This is on topic cause depending on how much the arrow bends will determine if the fletching clears or not. The closer to centershot you get, the less the arrow will bend and the more likely you'll get fletching contact or the tail of the arrow contact with a less then perfect release. The best starting point for tuning is the arrow 1 diameter at the tip left of center when sighting the string down the middle...

Ever hear anyone say "the closer to centershot the wider spine range you can shoot"? That's true only from the standpoint that cut "past center" gives you more options to build out the side plate, which few people ever do. So they wind up shooting a 70# arrow from a 50# bow. That configuration isn't as forgiving to our errors as it would be adjusted to shoot a 50-55# out of the same bow nor would you have as much fletching clearance....O.L.

[WidowEater]

Maybe just tune the arrows correctly, and then use any fletch you want to.

[electric blues]

Not everyone has enough money to go through 100 arrows a month testing and making new ones. I wanted the first batch to work so I didnt have to spend more. (im a college student) I'd rather go a litle slower than not hit the target. I barely notice the difference though, I fletched one of mine with 3 instead of 4. And there was a difference, but not enough to offset the bad arrow flight.

And I dont trust anyone I know to shoot an arrow at me. I'll have to let the deer decide if my arrow is too loud. I seem to think it wont be. The biggest thing I have found is new feathers versus old, half worn feathers.

[Rick P]

Originally posted by BobW:
It is kind of funny, we call ourselves "Traditional Archers/Hunters", yet will go to the extents of wind tunnel testing to gain that fraction of an edge.....  Dang we are an interesting case study.    

I'm having tons o fun and I fletch to please me have yet to see any evidence that using 4 vs 5 inch or shape has any real world difference. Guys you don't honestly believe a few feet faster or the shape of your fletchings is going to make any difference to the critter on the business end of a arrow do you? Next you'll be debating the thermodynamic advantages of all one color fletching, after all variance in color means variance in temp and therefore micro warping of the shaft.  

[pdk25]

Hi Mr. Adcock,
 I don't quite understand why a bow that is centershot would be less forgiving and more likely to contact the riser than otherwise.  I have no doubt that you have researched the issue, and I don't want to tie up your time explaining something over and over.  Is there any reference or simple explanation for this.  I can understand if you are using arrows that are significantly too stiff, but I would think you would have this problem if not centershot as well.