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Author Topic: from wheels to wood  (Read 193 times)

Offline ago

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from wheels to wood
« on: September 26, 2008, 04:01:00 PM »
after hunting for many years with a compound the other day I bought a martin mamba.....don't know what happened to me just saw one and it was a lefthanded one and it was the first lh wooden bow I had in my hands:what a feeling I just didn' want to put it down anymore
beeing a lefty is very rare to find lh bows in this country
not knowing anything about it I need help and shops here are useless
first of all I was told that I can leave it strung all the time I can't believe it what is best?
It'a 55# and I draw 28 I have two kind of arrows awailable(lots of them)so I hope I can use them.Both are carbon express  rebel hunter 4560 or 6075  both with feathers .which would be best to start with, they seem to fligh more or less the same.
I have field points and broadheads from 85 to 125 grs
It looks that trad arrows points are much more heavy then compounds why?

Offline Bjorn

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Re: from wheels to wood
« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2008, 05:08:00 PM »
Trad archers need the extra weight for penetration, 10+gpp is a good guideline for arrow weight.
By that measure 550+ grains for you. If the arrows fly the same the choice is yours. Have you bareshafted them to be sure?

Offline longbowben

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Re: from wheels to wood
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2008, 05:12:00 PM »
Welcome yes you do use heaver arrows,10 gr per lb standard.And yes leave strung.Contact sipsey river.
54" Hoots 57@28
60" MOAB 60@28
Gold tip, 160gr Snuffer
TGMM Family of the Bow
USAF 90-96 69TH Bomb Squadron

Offline Killdeer

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Re: from wheels to wood
« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2008, 05:13:00 PM »
Yes, you can leave it strung. Fiberglass laminated bows do not take a set or lose cast like self bows. You have a nery high-quality bow.

I know nothing about carbon arrows. I would try the ones that are 45-60 with 100-125 grain tips. If they look too light, go to the heavier spined ones with heavy tips. Trad bows go more by weight than speed, so we use heavy arrows. Your bow will kill anything in my neck of the woods!

Killdeer~ciao!   :wavey:
Long, long afterward, in an oak I found the arrow, still unbroke;
And the song, from beginning to end, I found again in the heart of a friend.

~Longfellow

TGMM Family Of The Bow

Offline ishiwannabe

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Re: from wheels to wood
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2008, 05:14:00 PM »
First off, welcome to the world of traditional archery.
I would think the 45/60s would be fine if you loaded up the tip weight to say, 200 or so.(More people will come along and tell you exactly what you will need for perfect flight) Another thing to consider is you arrow weight. Heavier arrows penetrate better, quiet the bow down, and some manufacturerers require a certain GPI(grains per inch) for their warranty.
The added point weight affects the spine of the arrow(faster recovery and betterflight) and with penetration.
Im sure more will come along that are better versed than I am.
Good luck and good hunting.
"I lost arrows and didnt even shoot at a rabbit" Charlie after the Island of Trees.
                         -Jamie

Offline Archer Fanatic

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Re: from wheels to wood
« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2008, 10:02:00 PM »
If you go to  www.e-archery.it/  you will be in contact with a traditional archery shop in Italy.

Offline ago

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Re: from wheels to wood
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2008, 02:21:00 PM »
Wow sure got replies to my questions
and I thank you all and have to excuse myself for not properly introducing myself before
with 125 grs points the 45/70 goes to 490 grs the 60/75 to 550grs the thing is that the lighter set-up has a flight and a speed that I am more used to coming from the compound
The only game that you are allowed to hunt in the free is wildboar and it's a pretty tough animal so if you think I have to go heavier I will.
To achieve weight is it better to buy a heavier broadhead or is it better to add weight with an insert?
 A.F.Thanks for the  netlink

Offline James Wrenn

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Re: from wheels to wood
« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2008, 02:54:00 PM »
With the 45/60s you might need a little more point weight to get the spine right.Make sure you have good arrow flight and the weight will be fine.Anything over 8gns is fine from most any bow and certainly is with the Martin.
....Quality deer management means shooting them before they get tough....

Offline ago

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Re: from wheels to wood
« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2008, 03:54:00 PM »
right i'll try a 140 broadhead
sounds like the people in this forum like the martin bow I bought, I know nothing about trad bows but this one just felt right from the first time I had it in my hands
I know I could maybe find a better arrow for it But I have so many 45/60 that have lost their vanes and just need feathers that its seems silly not to do

Offline beachbowhunter

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Re: from wheels to wood
« Reply #9 on: September 29, 2008, 03:59:00 PM »
Unless your 45-60 are cut short, they should be the right choice. That's what I shoot out of my 58# recurve. I draw only 27 and put between 225 and 250 on the end (I use 100 grain brass inserts from 3 Rivers). I cut my shafts to 29.5.
Ishi was a Californian                   :cool:

Offline ago

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Re: from wheels to wood
« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2008, 04:24:00 PM »
I draw 28 and the arrows are cut a 30.5

Ishi was a Californian   :)      :)      :)      :)
  :biglaugh:

Offline SteveB

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Re: from wheels to wood
« Reply #11 on: September 29, 2008, 06:05:00 PM »
A little against the grain here - I shoot a 420 gr arrow from a 53# recurve quietly with flat trajectory and have no worries about penetration - mature cow elk last year was down in sight.

Steve

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