removing inserts from carbons...is it possible?

[DaveBriner]

Anyone figured out a way to do this?  I have some GT's I want to add the brass inserts to.  I used 2 part epoxy to get them in.
Best,
Dave

[BobW]

swing hammer.... something like a drill bit that will just fit in the shaft.  Whip the shaft causing the steel to strike the insert very fast and hard.  A series of quick whips will drive it out.  Insert may be toast, but it works.  Done it a number of times.

[DesertDude]

I have heated the field point and pulled out the insert. Pull stright and do not twist. I have had good luck with this method.

[BillW]

I do the same as DD
Bill

[shortstroke 91]

What BobW said, I took a screwdriver and cut the shft to about 4 inches, round the ends off on a grinder of file and use it as a swimg hammer. Just make sure to swing in a safe area, something like a corner that has carpet should do fine. Don't know if it will help but on regular glue you can even add a few drops of solvent down the inside of the shaft to loosen things up a bit.

[deermaster1]

as others have said, heat a field point, while it is screwed into the insert.  this will usually warm the glue enough to break, but not damage the shaft.  i have NOT had any luck with the swing-a-drill bit method.  it just wouldnt break loose.  and if it does, it usually flies away and i cant find it.

[DaveBriner]

Thanks all of ya,
I hadn't thought of the 'ol swing hammer method.  I guess I always thought it was bad news to try and heat up the carbons.  I'll give her a whirl and see what happens.
Best,
Dave

[Charlie Cole]

36" thin steel rod. About $3.50. Tape on the end so you don't score-up the inside of the shaft. Tap 'er out.

[Roadkill]

put it in the freezer for a day or two and then tap the insert.  Metal will contract, carbon won't-s single rap with a rawhide mallet shatters the crystallized glue.  i used to take sniper rifle actions out of fiberglass stocks this way.

[trapperDave]

I use thye drill bit method

[nutmeg]

Make sure you only heat the field point.The epoxy will start to smoke and you will smell it pull it out straight. It comes out quite easily.(nut)

[David M. Mathis]

I use a candle to heat the field point. Mike

[Whip]

I've done it with heat a number of times with no damage at all to the carbons.  As others have said, just put in a field point and make sure to heat only the point - don't let the flame touch the carbons.  The epoxy will break down long before the carbon is damaged.

[limbow]

Heat gun works for me-Either on the fild point or the shaft itself!

[Big_Al]

Here's what I do, to keep from damaging the shaft.

Find the biggest field point you've got.  Chuck it up in a bench vise with the field point paralell with the floor.

Twist the shaft and insert onto the field point JUST ENOUGH to securely engage the threads, not all the way down.

Apply heat using a propane torch to the tip of the field point (it's a lot easier if someone else holds the torch).  Do NOT get the torch near the shaft.

Apply firm pressure to the shaft rearward, away from the point/vice.  Keep steady, continuous pressure on the shaft while the heat is being applied.  As soon as the insert has enough heat to break the glue bonds the shaft will pull off the insert.

The most important part is to NOT screw the shaft all the way onto the field point.  If you try this with the field point all the way screwed on, the heat from the torch will pass right through the point and the insert into the shaft and damage it.  

When you heat it with the shaft halfway screwed on, all the heat is directed into the center of the insert, not along its edges.  This allows the insert to heat up but keep the shaft relatively cool.

[George D. Stout]

Why don't you just get an 8/32 tap and screw it into the insert...that way threads will not be damaged.  A little heat shouldn't hurt the shaft and you would have good leverage.

The carbons that I have are glued in with hot melt...the low temp kind.  They hold very well if the inside is chafed slightly ahead of time with some rolled sandpaper.  They are very easy to remove then with an alcohol burner by heating the field point or tap.

[DaveBriner]

Thanks again all you guys,
I successfully removed all inserts last night using a candle to heat up a fieldpoint that was not entirely screwed in.  Now I have some GT's ready to tune up!
Take care and good luck this fall,
Dave

[Holepuncher]

I have taken a 1/4 " toggle bolt and cut the head off, removed the knock and inserted the bolt in the shaft, heat it up a little and then by holding the knock end of the shaft whip the arrow in a quick downward motion causing the bolt to fly to the insert end of the shaft thus the weight of the bolt knocking out the insert.