Repost-new information Ben Pearson Advice

[NewtoTrad2008]

Biff from Tenn suggested I repost with more info so here goes.
Let me know if I am posting in the wrong area.
OK, as my name says I am new to this. I picked up a Ben Pearson KM Special 7305 in late spring. Hand written it says BN 4248 58" 50# @ 28", but above the shelf it has 52# (behind the skin). I draw right at 28# and I measured it and it is closer to 54#. I shoot off of the shelf, three fingers under,canting the bow and attempting to do it intinctively. The person I bought it from said he bought it new and lost interest and it has been in a closet for over 20 years. The limbs are straight and after getting a new string and some arrows I shot all summer, but I think I need a different arrow set up. The guy I got the string from set me up with some carbons (full length)Beman Venture 500 and 100 grain field tips and I was planning on using 100 grain G5's, 4" feathers with left helical. I can shoot a pretty good group at 10 yards, (4") but then I get all over the place at 20, I don't want to tell you what I do after that!    
Besides a lot more practice what can you suggest for an arrow set up. Once I get confident I plan to use it for deer and elk hunting, as well as any other small game I can get after. I love the look of wood but need the durability of carbons for now.
By the way, the finish was in prety bad shape, so with a lot of tips from past threads I have started to refinish her as well.
Any idea of the age and what the BN4248 means would be great. I know I'm asking a lot, can you tell I'm still pretty excited?
Any suggestions and insight is apprieciated.
 

   
 
 

[Blackhawk]

Hi New...,

Try posting this on the "Trad History/Collecting" forum found just below "PowWow".  There are some fellows there that know Pearsons and can give you and idea of age and such.  

Those 500's should work, but I would increase the weight of the fieldtips.  With your 28" draw, what length did you cut the arrows?

good luck...

[George D. Stout]

That is simply a Ben Pearson Hunter that was made for K-Mart and called KM Special.  They are good bows but are not centershot...close but not centershot.  You will in all likelihood have to add more weight to the end of those 500's to get them to bend more.  Your hundred grain points are too light and create too stiff an arrow for that bow design.  I bet if you add a 100 grain insert, in addition to your broadhead, you will see a big improvement.

[NewtoTrad2008]

Thanks for the response.
Blackhawk, they are not cut down at all, full length, what do you suggest?

George, sorry for my ignorance, it think I know but to be sure what is centershot?

I will try adding some weight. Thanks

[Biff]

Matt- don't cut your arrows to your draw length. That would make them stiffer. Adding heavier points helps the arrow to bend a little more in your circumstance.
  Center shot bows have the sight window cut into the bows at,  or slightly past the center of the bow, so the arrow dosn't need to bend as much to get around the bow.
  The only thing that will help you shoot a tighter group from further out is for you to consentrate on one part of your shooting form at a time. possible your release needs to be more consistant, and burn a hole in your target, not letting your eyes vary from the exact center. Good luck, keep on enjoying your bow, it's a good one. Biff

[jchunt4ever]

You should take a look at this page about OL Adcock's tuning page. It will walk you through exactly how to tune those arrows for your bow, and I think it explains a lot of terminology that you are probably unfamiliar with also.

Here is a link to the site:    OL Adcock\\'s Tuning

Centershot refers to how much, toward the center line of the riser, that the arrow shelf is cut. A bow that is centershot, means that the arrow passes directly down the center line of the bow. A bow that is under centershot, the arrow must flex around the riser when shot, in order to travel straight forward.

George states that your bow is not centershot so that would mean your arrow shelf is not cut all the way to the center line of the bow, therefore your arrow must flex around the riser when shot, which also makes your arrow tuning a little more critical.

Hopefully that helps and doesn't confuse you more.

{updated}
Well, Biff beat me to it above.