the difficulty with that, Tom, is that the same arrow more than likely will NOT be perfectly tuned for BOTH of those bows.
Something will have to likely change- point weight, shaft length, something.
Adding speed should be the last thing we worry about.
At twenty yards and under the performance advantage of adding 10 or 15 feet per second is INCHES of difference in reaching the target.
Besides, momentum is the key to penetration. The resistance to stopping is what we need to be concerned with.
O L Adcock laid down the 9( I can't count too well, but I think that was how many he wrote above) commandments
And arrow placement is the single most important factor in any hunting situation no matter what any of us say: If you put the arrow in the right spot, you can shoot field points.
Unfortunately, after watching a great many trad shooters loose arrows at game, including myself, I am of the opinion that we MUST set up our equipment prepared for the worst possible outcome, and practice like crazy to make the PERFECT SHOT. You can tell us how great a shot you are, and how you have never wounded and lost game all you wish. I'm not certain we are being as honest with ourselves as we should be if that is the tack we are taking.
In preparing this way, and should we have a less than perfect hit, and often when that happens we strike bone, we stand a good chance of breaking that bone, and getting into tissue that can kill the animal.
If on the other hand, you only hit soft tissue, I also want a single bevel head that is spinning through that tissue, to do the most possible damage while its traveling through the animal.
In the final analysis, the original questioner seemed absolutely befuddled by this whole situation and has threatened to stop hunting over it.
In my opinion, you should get some arrows together, and go hunt a hog. If you see a hog that you think is too big for your setup, here's a thought- DON'T shoot it. Move on and shoot the next one. You'll do just fine.