? for all you custom knife makers

[MATT_MO]

A few weeks back I happened to come across a blade that my grandfather made before he died.  I think it was made out of a saw blade.  It is almost black due to the high carbon content in the steel, but too the questions now.  I just made a handle for it out of wood and was wondering the best way to attach it?  If it would be using pins if so how do you go about putting them in and having them stay in.  I tried to drill through the blade and it didn't even make a scratch on it so I was kind of hoping for a different way.  This might sound like a stupid question but I have never done this before and am wanting to do it the proper way so it doesn't have a bad look to it.

My other question is how do you go about making a hand guard for it and how would you go about attaching that to the handle or blade.  I was thinking about maybe just making it part of the handle I made, but for some reason it just didn't look right to me.  I think it would give it a good look to it to have a steel guard on it if at all possible.  Thanks for any help on this it will be much appreciated.

A knife that has been case hardened will it be able to hold an edge after you sharpen through the first layer of steel or would you be able to sharpen it a little before you hit a softer spot?

[sticshooter]

WELL I AM BY NO MEANS A KNIFE REAL KNIFE MAKER. THAT BEING SAID TO DRILL I HEAT THE HANDLE UP AND LET IT COOL(BE SURE NOT TO HEAT THE BLADE. I USE COBALT DRILL BITS. AS FOR THE GUARD TOU CAN BUY THEM OT MAKE ONE FROM BRASS. IF THE BLADE IS TOO HARD TO SHARPEN YOU HAVE TO HEAT IT UP ALITTLE BUT NOT TO MUCH OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE TEMPER.<><

[OconeeDan]

Matt, I am no expert at all.  But I suggest you try a new drill bit first.  I have never seen steel that was too hard to drill, but have seen plenty of worn bits that won't drill anything.   Even if it looks sharp, buy a new one and try it. Centerpunch where you are drilling first to keep the bit from wandering.  I have used 1/8" bit and 1/8" brass rods for pins.
You can attach wood scales/handle using clear epoxy, the holes in the tang help the epoxy to get a better grip.  You can also add pins if you want that look.  It's up to you.  But I tried the "pin only" method, didn't work well for me (because I am not an expert).
Dan

[robtattoo]

If you're having too much trouble drilling for pins, try using a new cutting disc in a grinder. Grind a slot down the centre of the tang, leaving around 1" at either end. You can then fit your pins in the slot, down the middle of your handle. The gaps between the pins (in the tang) will be filled by your epoxy & leave an awesomely strong handle.
As for fitting a bolster, that'd depend on the shape of the tang. If it's straight, or tapers away from the blade, you can chain-drill & file out a piece of brass/nickel/gold/whatever and slide it over the tang towards the blade.
It'd be a great help if you could post a couple of pics of your blade.

[uhdet]

When I use saw blade material I usually use a Dremel with an 1/8" stone to grind my pin holes. You can also anneal the area with a small pinpoint butane torch. Get it red in your marked pin area and let it cool at it's own spped. Don't quench it or you will reharden it. Good luck.

[MATT_MO]

I will try and get a few pics up tomorrow.  I got a little busy today and didn't get a chance.  I was also wondering if it was alright to just use epoxy or some kind of glue instead of pins?  If so what brand of glue works the best, and is the handle going to be secure enough to last forever or is there a chance it will come apart if it gets wet?

[OconeeDan]

Epoxy should be fine without pins.  Make sure everything is clean and degreased.  
I like Devcon brand clear epoxy, the slow set version.  Smooth On works good too.
Dan

[MATT_MO]

Here are a few pics of the knife I am working on.  I hope I sized them right.

 

 

[Straitshot]

If you want a finger guard make a slotted one out of 1/4" brass bar stock or you can buy one from one of the knife making supply companys. Fit it and then use low heat silver solder and solder it in place. Make sure all surfaces to be soldered are clean and grease free and remember it is low heat solder so you don't have to get it super hot for the solder to flow.

Louis

[MikeJMO]

Matt MO is my friend so he wont mind me saying,

"That looks like it was made by a drunk kid in a Pakistani sweatshop"