whats the best nock and point taper tool??

[jacobsladder]

Im just starting to build woodies... Whats the best nock and point taper tool? the best way to cut shafts? and is the nock taper have the same degree taper as the point?? I'm sure i'll have more questions.... thanks to all!!!

[tim-flood]

They all work somewhat,  the one I like the best now is a cheap sander with a fixture you build.  but the plastic ones will work just fine and both ends are different

[TexMex]

I have a Tru-Center Taper Tool as long as the blades are sharp it works real nice and fast.

[Hot Hap]

The point end is 5 degrees and the nock end is 11 degrees. Hap

[ChuckC]

Yep, like above.  I think you can easily build a pretty durned good one yourself with a little thought and ingenuity.
ChuckC

[hit some miss some]

I built a couple last week. I used a couple blocks of aluminum and drilled holes in them at 5 degrees and 11 degrees. I then put an end stop on each one. I clamp them on a disk sander and insert the shaft and give it a spin. It puts a nice even taper on in about 30 seconds. They work for me alot better than the pencil sharpener type.
Brian

[aromakr]

Your question was what is the best tool. If you are going to purchase one get the "Woodchuck" there is nothing better, how ever if you are handy and have a disc sander, I agree you can make your own.
Bob

[Pat B]

Brian, Will you post pics of the block you use(made) for a tapering jig?
   I use my disc sander for tapering the point and nock ends. I have also used(and gave away) a Tru-center taper tool and the cheap plastic ones(which I like).  Pat

[wapiti]

I agree that the "woodchuck" is the best tool. It has the ability to be very precise on the taper.

[jacobsladder]

is the tru-center taper tool worth the price. Or should I just get a cheap plastic one. I will probably only build 3 dozen arrows per year... thanks again..

[SCATTERSHOT]

I have used the same cheap plastic tapering tools (different sizes) for over 20 years now with no problems. I have the Tru Taper, also, but it's too much brain damage for me to get set up properly. I guess you have to be smarter than what you're working with, but the cheapies work the first time every time with no fuss.

[varmint]

Another vote for the woodchuck as being the best.

I switched from a Tru-center to the woodchuck,I got it off of this site from one of the members for a very good price.

If you're interested in the tru-center,PM or e-mail me and I'd be happy to send it to you so you don't have to spend the $$,seeing as it is tucked away in a tackle box gathering dust now.......

[hit some miss some]

Originally posted by Pat B:
Brian, Will you post pics of the block you use(made) for a tapering jig?

If I can figure out how to post a picture I will.
Brian

[RamiusEng]

I use Tru-taper.  I use the collection of cheapies I have as shaft gages.  I like the consistency of the Tru-taper.  I find the plastic cheapies get deformed  by shafts that are not exactly to spec. Then, in my experience, the arrows that are in spec will come out..not so good.

For cutting wood arrow shafts I use an Exacto miter saw..it is a tiny thing.  The saw is based on their classic red plastic handle.  Mine is special because it is old, rusty, and bent (8 y.o minimum).  And the arrows come out perfect.

[wahoo]

Tru-taper is fine if you are building cedar arrows.Your best tool is the woodchuck $135 hands down.For cutting shafts I use an old pipe cutter or a sharp knife and then snap them by hand.

[Jim now in Kentucky]

any sanding disk setup will do a good job. I have the plastic ones and would only use them in a desperate situation if the shaft was hardwood.

My sanding disk setup uses V grooves like the Woodchuck. They hold any diameter shaft perfectly, standard or not.

For cutting to length, I use the old way of rolling the shaft under a sharp knife to score it deeply, then snap it off.

[Orion]

What arrowmakr said.