Wood Arrow Shooters Gather Around!

[ThePushArchery]

Okay fellas,

now that I have you guys here, I need some help.

I have tried Easton XX75, and GT 5575 arrows and I am just not happy. I love making arrows, but something is missing. Everytime I go to make a new batch of arrows, I think about the one time I have shot woodies, and I loved them.

I am a beginner through and through when it comes to wooden arrows. I have three bows and draw 28.5";

1. PSE Coyote - 55# @ 28"
2. Bob Lee Classic - 55# @ 28"
3. RER Arroyo - 55# @ 28"

I want to start making wooden arrows so bad but have no idea where to start. I made a half dozen once out of red oak dowel rods, but sitting on the ground in Lowes and HD rolling 600+ rods across the ground gets pretty boring, but I didn't want to invest a lot of money in my first attempt.

So my question is, I need as much advice, from what type of shafts to buy, stain, sealant, etc and what types of tools I will need. (I have a taper tool, and all the fletching jigs and choppers already.)

I am not into cresting, as I am hard on my arrows and just can't justify the time, but any advice is welcome. My main goal is to come up with an arrow that will shoot out of all my bows. But I realize it is not a perfect world, so a start would be just fine for now.

Thanks guys!
Matt

[Fletcher]

You look to have most of the tools you will need.  A glue bottle is nice if you choose to use Duco (my choice) for fletching and nocks, and something for "hook" straightening shafts would be handy.  You don't need to buy a hook, tho.

Shafts are the heart of your arrows so don't waste your time and effort with crap for shafts.  There is nothing you can do with a lousy shaft to turn it into a good arrow.  Hildebrandt spruce and Surewood fir are both good and you can find good cedar from a few of the suppliers.  The Whispering Wind site has a good spine chart that will help you choose the spine you need.  Their shafts are very good, also.  I stain with Minwax and seal/finish with Minwax Fast Dry Polyurethane.  Lots of guys like the Polycrylic for its quick dry and low odor.  Gloss is the toughest and most waterproof.  You can wipe, brush or dip it on.  If you dip, thin it 3-4 to 1.  I like at least 3 coats.  Hope this helps get you started.

[talkingcabbage]

I'm the same way.  I started shooting wood arrows, and I love them.  I've pretty much settled on the fact that you get one kill (or miss) with each arrow, then it's pretty much guaranteed to break, but I still love them.  Check out e-bay for the shafts.  I got two dozen decent cedar shafts, already spine matched, for about $18 a dozen, which is super cheap.  If you need help with spine, you'd want to start with some 45-50# shafts and see how they shoot in your bows, then adjust if necessary.

As far as straightening, a screwdriver can do wonders.  You really don't need any fancy tools.  

I have a cresting lathe I made from an old fan that I had sitting in my garage and a 2x6.  

Finish is the spray polycrilic, in a satin finish.  I figured out I can finish a lot of shafts at the same time by drilling a bunch of 3/8" holes in a block and standing the shafts vertically, then spraying all at once.  It works pretty slick.

Hope this helps.  If not, I'll try better next time!

Joe

[Orion]

Fletcher's pretty much laid it out for you.  Down the road, you'll probably also want a spine tester and a grain scale so you can match your arrows on both physical weight and spine.  Most suppliers attempt to group their shafts within plus or minus 5 or 10 grains and within 5# of spine.  I say attempt because most times I've mail ordered, the range has been much larger than that.  The other physical characteristic of the shafts you'll need to be concerned with is grain.  It should run nearly straight the entire length of the shaft.  That's hard to find in POC anymore.  

Might consideer getting a good how to book like Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook by T.J. Conrad.  Tells you all you need to know about arrow making and a bunch of other stuff.  Good luck.

[StickBowManMI]

To start out, why not try some of the pre-finished shafts available from 3 Rivers. That will allow you extra time to crest them. After a few dozen arrows are made up and crested you may want to cap dip them or use a wrap on the arrow. Its a great way to pass the dull winter nights and end up with a nice dozen of finished arrows. You should consider the video available from 3 Rivers on making arrows from scratch. Its pretty good. Enjoy your seld!

[30coupe]

If you are drawing 28.5" with 55 pound bows, I'd start with 50-55 POC, maybe even 55-60 if your bows are cut to center. You will need to cut your shafts to about 29.5 BOP, which will drop about five pounds from your spine. 45-50's will probably be too weak.

3Rivers has good cedar shafts. Lamont at the Footed Shaft does too and will sort them for weight/spine for a bit extra. Both places are great to deal with. I do business with both and have been very satisfied with both.

Wood shafts are more forgiving than any other material, IMO. They are just a bit more work and they do tend to break a bit easier.

Have fun with them!

[waiting4fall]

Call this fine gentleman
  http://hildebrandarrowshafts.com/  

If you have'nt done so already, seriously consider switching to using this stuff, it's awesome!!!
   

These guys rock also. Any wrap you can imagine!!!
  http://onestringer.com/index.php?page=mods/Products/index  

What i like to soak my raw shafts in for 2-3 days
A mix of each.
  http://www.minwax.com/products/oil_based_clear_protective_finishes/helmsman_spar_urethane.cfm  

  http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_maintenance_and_repair/high_performance_wood_hardener.cfm  

I always weigh my raw shafts, & then reweight the finished shafts, (cured, w/ all components). I find i get a variation of about 10-12 grains,throughout a dozen shafts. For the most part mine are right around 600 grains, finished wt. That is 70-75lbs tapered sitka spruce, @ 30.5 inches.

This is just how i do it. I then let hang dry for 2-3 days. Fletch & shoot. Maybe this will give an idea or 2. Enjoy.

[Bjorn]

You are getting a lot of really good tips and advice here; but I think we are underestimating the spine by quite a bit because it is a 'longbow'.
The cut of the riser means more than LB vs RC.
Matt, you are likely using FF, or D97 in at least the Arroyo-maybe the others too. The arroyo looks cut to center and my guess is you are going to need 70# shafting if you cut to 29" and use 145 grain tips.
Either way get a 'tuning kit' of 3 different spine weights from whomever before you order anything else, and bareshaft them to see what works best for you.
Also see the tuning sections at Morrison Archery and ACS Bows.
There is nothing more expensive than a cheap shafting when it comes to making good arrows.

[donw]

while i dearly loved using cedar shafts, i  found the cost became to prohibitive as compared to the returns. someone said above: "one kill or one miss..."

i bought some ash shafts that have proven to be extremely durable.

i did however switch to carbons as i had to go to a lighter draw weight poundage and found i could get better performance from the lighter carbon shafts than the smaller lighter wodden shafts.

IMO...go ash...little tougher to straighten but well worth the effort.

[SCATTERSHOT]

cheap - good - fast   Pick two, LOL!

Rogue River made some of the best shafts I have seen. Cecil and Paula sold the business to Wapiti Archery, and I understand that the new owner turns 'em out to the same standard.

My advice would be to get a few shafts around the spine you need and see which flies best before buying a whole bunch. Then spine the arrows to the bow that requires the lightest spine, and tune them to the other bows by building out the sideplate, if necessary.
Good luck!

[toddster]

Matt- glad you are into it.  As already said, the shaft is where it is at.  there are plenty of good people to buy from and different woods.  I would say buy some port cedar oxford shafts in the spine group you want, likely 50-55#.  now there are somethings to decide on and need.  ALL WOOD SHAFTS NEED TO BE SEALED, PERIOD!  There are several ways to do it.  I messed around with different ways to do it.  I finally went and bought the gasket sealing system and couldn't be happier and proffesional results.  As far as straightening, the good lord gave you hands, thats all you need.  Then you will need to buy a hand taper tool, tip-if you get your shafts to roll flat across a table top (usually 2-3 times straightening)cut it off and chuck it in drill and put taper tool on end.  I have the Woodchuck taper but unless you are making alot of arrows, don't worry about it.  As far as dying/coloring there are endless ways and stains you can buy or make.  Take your time and enjoy, don't dump alot of money into it till you know you want to do it alot.  Few other tips, you can buy a cutoff saw, or use a hacksaw, I got a multipurpose wheel for my drill and use it to cut them off.  Have a place to do it, and rig up a string and get some clothes pins to hand arrows so they dry evenly.  If using the gasket laquer system, I found I color/stain the shaft, let them dry 24 hours, then I seal them.  Then I cut them off and taper, this way the whole shaft is sealed, and no laquer on the taper to cause problems with glue, I use Duco.  Good luck and feel free to IM with any questions.

[George D. Stout]

Quality cedar shafts are not broken with one miss, unless you're shooing at concrete.  Fastflight material adds about ten pounds of spine to the formula.  I agree with Bjorn, you are probably looking at 70# spine or near there-abouts.  I love cedar and find them very durable.
Sitka Spruce and Douglas Fir are also good shaft material.

[Jon Stewart]

Matt, go for it.  You will feel a real sense of satisfaction when you shoot your first deer with an arrow you made.  I am going so far as to try and knap  a stone head for next years hunt.

I look at hunting this way.  when you shoot a deer or at a deer with a rifle or black powder, you don't get your bullet  back so why should you expect to get your arrow back when you shoot at a deer with your bow.  If you do find your arrow and its not broken then you are one up on the deer.  IMHO

This year I reconditioned old Bear arrows to hunt with and shot two deer with them. End result was both arrows broke in half and two deer in the freezer.

[Hot Hap]

I'm with Bjorn and George. 70#-Hap

[Bill Carlsen]

Try this link...http://www.stickbow.com/features/index.cfm?feature=arrowmaking

[vtmtnman]

Originally posted by Bill Carlsen:
Try this link...http://www.stickbow.com/features/index.cfm?feature=arrowmaking

:eek:  

THANK YOU for that link.        

I just got into wood arrow crafting and this thread is great!

[George Tsoukalas]

See Making a Simple Arrow on my site. Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[Bill Carlsen]

Richard: I rather like it. It has lots of good info....even for guys that have been making their own for some time. Enjoy your new endeavor. I used to make custom arrows so if  you get stuck or need an opinion I will be  happy to help. Just PM me. Where is Wells, Vt.? I used to hunt up in the Fairley area along the NH border.

[sagebrush]

I'm also with George and Bjorn. Gary

[Shaun]

12 - 70# tapered cedar shafts about $40

3 dozen feathers about $15

6 175-200 field points about $7

6 175-200 grain broad heads about $25

True spiraling flight of your home made arrow to the heart of a deer - priceless!