Files for sharpening?

[mdwattsjr]

I bought a Nichalson file to sharpen my new Grizzley broadheads, and after one broadhead, the file is shot. You guys that sharpen your own, what type of files do you prefer?

[buckeye_hunter]

contact sharpster he'll get you pointed in the right direction.

-Charlie

[BigRonHuntAlot]

When using files they need to be chalked and cleaned so they don't get pinned up.  Your file may just need a cleaning to get the metal out of the file teeth allowing it to cut again.

[Ray Hammond]

You have to use an auto body rasp for changing the blade angle.

I'm coming out with a Grizzly sharpening package that will include an auto body rasp and a 14 inch mill bastard file...

Keep your eye on the Sponsors Classifieds in the next day I will have it up..and it will be reasonable compared to other options.

[BOWBENDERPA]

I use a 10" or 12" Nicholson general purpose medium bastard mill file on my Snuffers and have noticed problems when the teeth fill with metal filings which reduces the cutting ability.  To get around this, I once read about an old machinist trick where they would rub the cutting surface (of a clean file) with a regular white chalk stick before using.  This fills the voids and evidently the powder has enough "give" to allow the teeth to cut without plugging it up. Then, every once in a while I clean the file with a good wire file brush and they last a least a year or two. Will be interested in seeing what "sharpster" says.

[aromakr]

Guy's:
I've file sharpened my broadheads for 50+ years and thought a Nicholson or Simmons was the only way too go, until recently when a friend from Colorado came up to hunt Whitetails with me. He turned me on to a Lure Jensen hook sharpening file, Wow!!! I have changed my mind.
Bob

[NoCams]

aromakr,
That would be a Simonds brand file, not Simmons. Sandvik also makes a good file. I know cause I pushed them across lots of steels working in the aerospace industry for 12 yrs. Hard to beat a Nicholson though !!!

The chalk absorbs any oils that are on the file and keeps the metal from sticking to the file teeth. It also preloads the valley at the bottom of the file teeth so the filings cannot get pinned in the bottom of the file teeth.

When using a file just make sure you clean and chalk the file before, during, and after use and it will serve you well. Worst enemy of a file is not cleaning and chalking it. Also if you are in a high humidity enviro like I am in TN, I even WD40 my file when I am finished with it. When I want to use it again I dip it in acetone or alcohol, clean with a file card, then chalk it up and put it to work. Sweaty hands will rust and ruin a file before you know it. JMHO

nocams

[longbowguy]

And remember to lift the file for the backstroke. Make contact only on the forward stroke. No back and forthing; it dulls the file. - lbg

[bearfootin]

Try not to touch with you're bare hands what ever your sharpening using a file. The oils from your skin will get on the metal, making the file slip on the metal and will also help the fileings plug the file teeth.,...Lloyd

[Boneyard Bowhunter]

If you use a wire hand brush to clean your file after every few strokes and lift the file on the back stroke your file should last quite a while. I use a mill bastard for roughing and a mill smooth to finish. Get the good files from an Industrial supply like M S C.

[Skinny Little Runt]

"When using files they need to be chalked and cleaned so they don't get pinned up. Your file may just need a cleaning to get the metal out of the file teeth allowing it to cut again."
As Big Ron said, add to that if the file is a little slow soak it overnite in Muratic acid(HCL)
The acid will clean the steel debris from the teeth.