Dan Quillian kit bow

[foxchef]

Picked up a Dan Q kit bow a couple years back, just before he passed away, and have been having a hard time shooting it. It's a nice bow, 60# 64" cherry with hickory backing. The hand shock is unreal. If I shoot more than a dozen arrows with it I can't shooot anything else for a week. Serious pain in my elbow and wrist. Would it make sense to try to work it down a bit to a lower poundage? I'd have a bowyer do that. There are no markings on it so I don't think it's really collectable. I'd like to be able to shoot it. Any thoughts or ideas?

clint

[ishiwannabe]

I would suggest trying to get a picture or two of it. Then those that know(not me) might be able to help you out some...
As far as I know(and it isnt much) hand shock comes from an uneven tiller or heavy limb tips. Im sure better versed people will come along and help you out. Good luck.

[Pat B]

Ishi is right. It is more likely the tips are too big(heavy) but limb timing can also cause hand shock.

[Eric Krewson]

Your bow was probably made by Jim Taylor in Russellville Al as he made Dan's kits.

The problem isn't the poundage, it is the 5 minute bow tillering job Jim did on a balloon sander. The limbs are probably badly out of time and have stiff spots.

I was in Jim's shop one time and he made a bow like yours from a glued up blank in about 15 minutes. I always told buyers to order a higher poundage bow than they wanted and retiller it. Then they might have a pretty good bow for a little money. Jim did use pretty good wood in his bows.

I doubt if the bow will be a collectors item as it is unlikely that Dan made it and there are thousands out there like it.

[foxchef]

Thanks guys.
Eric, I think you're right on the money with the sanding job. The limbs are kind of "wavy" or have ripples. It'll be a fun winter project.

[Eric Krewson]

Make yourself one of these and check the limbs for flat spots.

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=033419

I use a palm sander for final tillering with 100grit paper on it. This will take out most of the washboard effect.

If you shoot three under you want the tiller matched on the limbs, even tiler to 1/8" positive on the top limb.

If you shoot split finger 1/4" to 3/8" positive on the top might work for you.

[foxchef]

Believe me I had already checked out the how to section. I'm a chef by trade and pretty handy with knives but the wood working stuff will be an experience.

I do shoot split finger finger. So the 1/4 to 3/8 positive is the upper limb flexing more by those dimensions???

[Eric Krewson]

After you get the limbs bending evenly with the gizmo. With the bow strung, measure the distance from the string to the belly of the bow at several points from the string nock to the handle and compare the top limb measurements against the bottom to see which limb is further from the string. The one with more distance has positive tiller.

I usually even them up and sand a little off the top limb, shoot a few arrows, check arrow flight and hand shock, check tiller on the limb I sanded and make small corrections until the bow shoots like I think it should.

[breid]

I bought one of his 60#@28 and it is more like 70#.  It shot really well until I decided to burn a deer and elk into the limbs.  Cracked the bottom limb.  More of a splinter.  I think part of the handshock can be negated by using a heavy arrow.  I got some up to 700 gr. and it took some of the shock out.  For the $ you really can't beat it.  Just wish I knew where to get more like it.

[tim-flood]

I'm pretty sure the cherry ones were made by a guy named Johnny Stelly.  his number used to be 337-585-7233 Stelly's Primitive.  A good natured Cajun.