Adding Weight to Carbons

[hickstick]

I just got my CX shafts flying like darts with 100 gn brass inserts and 200gn  ezpull points (so total arrow weight was 570 grains outta my 58 # longbow and 57 # recurve) was all set to order some 200 grain razorcaps when I just heard they are going to be discontinued.  I really wanna use WWs but I can't find a steel insert that weighs 75 grains...  it would seem to me with all the 125 grn glue-on heads out there someone would make a 75 grain insert to total out at 200 grains.....anybody have any hints????

[hickstick]

ps..these were 45/60 terminators that even with the 100 grain brass inserts, and regular 125 grain field points acted too stiff. (got them clearence at wally world so they were already cut to 29"....saved a few bucks per shaft but ended up spending more tuning....penny wise, pound foolish I guess)

[Terry Green]

njstickbow,

Maybe it was your shaft.  Arrow Dynamics are tapered and I insert the tubing in from the front, and it gets jammed into the taper.  The taper is where the bend is on the shot, and the tubing isn't there, so there is no difference in spine for me.

Just another reason I use these shafts.  No matter what I do to them, they fly perfect for me, and seem to defy physics    :D

[Woodduck]

Interesting thread.
I like it when my arrows defy physics, for me  

[njstykbow]

Terry,

I shot the AD shafts for quite a while and never thought of using a tube in them just because of the taper.  I did have problems with those shafts splitting out on the nock ends when stump shooting.  

Never too old to learn a trick or two I guess.

[Terry Green]

Yeah NJ.....that was the only problem I had too...so I quit using the stock nocks early on.

[bjk]

Marc -- 3 Rivers has 75gr steel inserts (as well as 100 and 125).

[JC]

Most of my experience is with Carbon Express Terminator Hunter 60/75's and various weighting methods. In my arrows, out of my right handed Morrison takedown, arrows that impact on target without the yellow 3gr/in will impact approx 2" to the left with the tubes. Don't know about defying the laws of physics but I can get these results every single time all day long. No other changes in the setup, just adding weight tubes. Not sure what would cause that other than too stiff. Can't say about the other commercial wt tubes cause these are the only ones I've bought.

As far as aquarium tubing, maybe you are thinking of the rigid airline tubing? I'm talking about the really soft clear stuff...you can easily tie it in a knot if you want to. It's fairly heavy because of the thickness of the plastic, but very flexible.

I wish I could get the tapered shafts to fly out of my bows. I have never been able to get the AD's to NOT wobble, no matter how much tuning I tried...same for the Grizzly sticks, I went from way too weak to way too stiff with exact same flight results. It certainly may be something I'm doing, but I can't get them to perform nearly as well as tubular shafts.

They certainly work for Terry, I've seen him shoot them out of bows with 10-15# draw difference and fly perfectly. I put them on my bow and they wobble like crazy. I know it's just me, but it still happens    

NJ, David says we'll get to my target wt of 63@27. My hope is, it will be enough to push the CT Safari's (15gpi) I've been playing with. I'm not 100% sure but I think these spine at .150 or so, vs. my typical CE Terminators of .290. I'm looking at about an 800gr finished arrow, with hopes of shooting it off the shelf. I'll let you know when it gets here how that works. What are your suggestions for arrows, always open to something new?

[jesse cales]

i just picked up a dozen AD trads.i cut them 30"bop,shoved some aquarium tubing in the front.like terry said,screwed on a 125gr. point
and they fly like darts out of my 55# sequoia.
the finished arrow weight was 592gr.i either got lucky or the AD's are,"all that and a little more"

[bjk]

JC -- I've thought of this a couple times, but never tried it (never really needed to)...I've shot the Axis/Beman shafts quite a bit and find them to be excellent shafts.  I wonder if you needed a very heavy shaft, could you add a brass insert to the front as normal, then another to the front and one to the back to counter any spine change the extra front load might cause...it would make for a very heavy arrow with 300grs of just brass inserts, plus whatever bh...seems like getting to 800 plus would be very doable...of course, only if it flew and you wanted to tinker.

A 400 (or maybe 340) Axis/Beman built this way would be interesting out of a 63#r.

[JC]

JDC, for some, they are all that and more. Terry swears by them and I've seen the results first hand.

BJK, now that's one I haven't thought about. I can't get the 340 to work out of my 63 or 64# morrisons with the brass insert, only the standard aluminum...not stiff enough. I have 2 300's here but haven't had the time to try them.

[Terry Green]

jdc,

I usually cut mine level with the front of the shaft, so when I shove the insert in it jams the tubing so it doesn't rattle.  Glad they worked for you.  Of all the people I've sent ADs to try, or let shoot, they all had the same results as me.  JC is the only one...go figure.        

Also when JC shoots the ADs out of MY bows, they fly fine and dandy....double figure.          

[NDTerminator]

I just tried some 50 grain brass inserts on my 29" Carbon Extreme Terminator Hunters.  This upped the weight from 475 to 525 grains.  The flight was great before, but now it's absolutely perfect with much more penetration in the bag target....

[jesse cales]

terry,that's exactly how i did it.i tell ya fellows.logging in to this site has cut years off my learning curve.

[Rick McGowan]

bjk, yes you can add weights to the back to bring the spine back up, I've done it using the GT weight system, but there are limits on it. ie you can't just add as many weights as you want to make a real heavy arrow and you still need to make the arrow balance out right.
Terry, do you find that you can put the same abount of tubing in all the AD shafts? The ones I have that I tried it on all took a different apparently due to variations of the internal taper. I have to go along with JC, I've tried my best to make the tapered shafts work for me with little success, maybe its because I can't tune them like a paralell shaft. I do have some double tapered hickory shafts that are awesome, I wish I had some more!

[Terry Green]

Originally posted by Rick McGowan:
Terry, do you find that you can put the same abount of tubing in all the AD shafts? !

Yep.

And here's my arrow tuning regiment....I get them cut off the front end to 29 inches BOP.  That's it.  

At that point they are tuned for any of my bows from 58 to 70#s no matter the fletching, wrap/cresting, bHead with or without a steel adapter or tubing or not.

[robtattoo]

Terry, can I send you my bows & all my carbons for tuning?  

Actually, I had exactly the same results with 2213 XX75s. Cut 'em at 29" fill 'em with poly tubing, add b/head of choice. All fly perfectly from 50# up to 72# Go figure  :D

[Black Gold]

I like my weight up-front so this is what I found works best for me.

I cut 1/8" brass rod into 2" pieces.  This fits very snug on the inside of the 3/16 clear aquarium hose.  I fit them together and cut the hose at 2" as well.  This fits perfect inside my CE 250 shafts.  Put on a little gorilla glue and shove it to the front.  With 190 gr field points plus this extra weight my arrows are flying great and great penetration!