Broken Arrow While Bareshafting....

[ThePushArchery]

Set-up: 55# @ 28" Bob Lee Recurve. 28.5" draw
Arrow: 65-70# POC Shaft 31" (Throat to end of taper)

Arrow nock pointing way down and to the right. The arrow flys sideways the whole way to the bail.

I ended up breaking the arrow after the 2nd shot. What is going on?!!

[vermonster13]

Your quite a bit underspined and the nock point sounds to be too high

[Bill Carlsen]

Need a stiffer or shorter arrow, IMO.

[ThePushArchery]

Thanks!

[dino]

Your going to break alot of wood shafts trying to bareshaft them.  Best to fletch them up and flight tune them.  Just my experience.  Carbon or aluminum work alot better to bareshaft. dino

[bbassi]

I broke the first 2 wood arrows I tried bare shafting 5 years and 15 bows ago. Haven't bothered since. Fletch them up and paper tune if you have too.

[Cherokee Scout]

The above suggestions will work if you are right handed. If you are left handed the shaft is too stiff.

[ThePushArchery]

Thanks for the help guys..

I am right handed I should have added..

[knife river]

I have to ask:  how do you pronounce "cpnhgnlngct"?   Would you like to buy a vowel?        

[SCATTERSHOT]

I always thought that the nock pointing right
(0<---<<<)   for a right handed shooter meant the shaft was too stiff. Could someone clarify this for me? What is the impact point?
Thanks

[Robert Honaker]

Copenhagen Long Cut?

[Shooty1]

Ditto Scattershot.
He said the nock is pointing right, not the point. He's overspined.

[CJC]

nock right = stiff
nock left = weak

he is overspined!

[Hatrick]

CJC, Shooty1, and SCATTERSHOT have it correct.
Bare shafting with wood can be a real challenge. Best bet is to start with a lower spine shaft, fletch, and paper tune as stated above.

[Gatekeeper]

Originally posted by knife river:
I have to ask:  how do you pronounce "cpnhgnlngct"?   Would you like to buy a vowel?            

  This made me laugh.

[vermonster13]

I would highly doubt he is overspined and am more inclined to think he has his terms mixed up as many do when posting about their arrow tuning. A 31" 65-70 is going to spine at 40-45 pounds and that is with 125 grain point. The bow is cut a bit past center, uses FF string and so forth so will nock the spine down another 10#s. If he is using a point heavier than 125 you can nock some more pounds off.

[30coupe]

According to Rose City Archey's spine chart you should be using 70-75 or 75-80 spine with a 55 pound recurve.

 http://www.rosecityarchery.com/spine.htm

So, vermonster is right on the spine. Weak spine should make your arrow go point right/nock left though. Hmmm, either you have your directions mixed up or there is something amiss in your form. Torquing the string can cause the situation you describe (I'd rather not discuss how I know that).

I also agree with the others though, that bareshafting cedars is a waste of time and often a waste of shafts. Fletch them and shoot groups. Use the ones that group the best. I'd bet you'll need more spine or a shorter shaft. If you are drawing 28.5" you can trim them some and maybe get them to group where you want.

[Hatrick]

vermonster, then since he's drawing 28-1/2" he should be able to cut 2" off and see at least some slight improvement...right.

Sorry 30coupe, we must have posted at the same time.   Dave

[vermonster13]

Yes he'd see some improvement if he shortened the arrows to 29". He should be drawing between 56/57# if his draw is 28.5". Knowing the point weight would help in arrow selection also.

[Cherokee Scout]

That is for right handed shooters, left handed is opposite!