Tuning and Glue-in Nock Adaptors for CX Heritage?

[Curtis Haden]

http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=0149X

Anyone use these, how much do they weigh, and how do you like them?

I don't really care for the friction fit nocks that come with the CX Heritage shafts.  I always have to sand them for a decent fit, and I've lost a few stump shooting.  I'm kind of partial to Bohning Classic Index nocks and use them on all my aluminums.

The only real concern I have is that by adding any weight to the back of the arrow, it tends to stiffen the spine.  I suppose the only good way to tune would be to get the nocks set up and cut from the front.  It's just such a pain the a$$ to get the point inserts in and out on carbons...

I was thinking about using a small dab of Ferr-L-Tite on the inserts whilst bare-shafting, and then super-glue after tuning.  I don't think the glue would be hot enough to damage the shafts, and it wouldn't take much heat on a field point to get them back out.

Anyone else do that?

[Curtis Haden]

No one uses these or has an opinion???

Back to the front page for the evening carousers...er...browsers!

[wihill]

I guess I don't understand what you're asking about - I understand the question of the glue on adapters, but yes, they will add weight and change the spine.

I've shot the standard friction fit nocks for years and haven't had issues with them (unless you count trying to extract them back out of the end of the arrow, or cracking/destroying one from an impact with another arrow).

When I made the transition to traditional archery, I did notice a difference in the diameter of the serving and how tight the nocks fit, especially the ones from certain manufacturers.  The best compromise I've found from the old glue-on Bohnings to the new carbon nocks have been the Easton 3D Supernocks.  They'll still fit the standard carbons (.244-.246ID) but have more "play" around the string much like the old glue-ons.

Whole lot cheaper, won't mess with your spine, and just easier to deal with, IMO.

[DaveBriner]

Hello there,

Plenty of nocks out there that fit the CX heritage, go to an archery shop with your bow and an arrow and see what you like best.  Repeatedly cutting arrows at the front end for tuning seems like a huge pain to me.  Buy the brass weights that screw into the back of your business-end insert.  Glue these in with a hot melt gun, go shoot, and remove/add as needed with a 15 second dip in boiling water.  I recently went through the tuning process and was able to change weight up front on a half dozen arrows in about 10min.

Good luck,
Dave

[M60gunner]

I tried them on the CX 250's. I had to use 9/32 nocks as the Bohning classic 5/16 nocks were a sloppy fit IMO. I would ask if those adaptors work with all size CX shafts.
They do not weight that much and did not cause me any tuning problems. I cut the shaft to size from the nock end then glued in the nock adaptors.
If I use CX shafts agian I am inclined to use the nocks that come with shafts. Those 9/32 nocks are about the same size as the OEM nocks.

[Curtis Haden]

Originally posted by wihill:
I guess I don't understand what you're asking about - The best compromise I've found from the old glue-on Bohnings to the new carbon nocks have been the Easton 3D Supernocks.  They'll still fit the standard carbons (.244-.246ID) but have more "play" around the string much like the old glue-ons.

"The BBS is a head-last uninflected language, not perfectly capable of expressing the nuances of spoken word."  -- Brust

May give Supernocks a try.  Thanks.

Originally posted by DaveBriner:
Repeatedly cutting arrows at the front end for tuning seems like a huge pain to me.  Buy the brass weights that screw into the back of your business-end insert.  Glue these in with a hot melt gun, go shoot, and remove/add as needed with a 15 second dip in boiling water.
Good luck,
Dave

Thanks Dave.  I don't mind taking the time to cut-n-tune, and I don't really care much for the screw-in insert weights.  I'd like to keep heat to a minimum, although, I hadn't thought of using hot water to loosen the glue...  Any concerns about damaging the carbon shafts with water that's hot enough to soften the glue???  My original thought was to just "tack" the forward part of the brass inserts with some hot-melt while bare shafting...

Originally posted by M60gunner:
I tried them on the CX 250's. I had to use 9/32 nocks as the Bohning classic 5/16 nocks were a sloppy fit IMO. I would ask if those adaptors work with all size CX shafts.
They do not weight that much and did not cause me any tuning problems. I cut the shaft to size from the nock end then glued in the nock adaptors.
If I use CX shafts agian I am inclined to use the nocks that come with shafts. Those 9/32 nocks are about the same size as the OEM nocks.

Thanks Thomas!  Exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

[Paul Mattson]

I have used the adapters myself and built several dozen for customers.  I use 5/16" Bohning classic nocks.  I glue the adapter to the nock first, then glue the adapter to the shaft.  Doing this way gets everything in alignment.  As far as spine change, it may change some, but I can not tell the difference when using the adapters or with out.