How to cure/age a stave?

[DelSnavely]

After being on this site and a couple others I want to build a longbow, but I want to do one from scratch. I'll try to build a few from purchased blanks first, so there will be time to cure or age a stave, and I have a lot to learn before I do it.

We have a lot of chokecherry trees here in ND and I know the Sioux Indiands made bows from them. I would like to know a few things before I cut some. I'll look for 3" saplings without limbs about 70" long or so. I'll cut about 3, peal them and seal the ends. Then I'll store them in our spare room. Is that the right thing to do?

I'm hoping you folks can help me out. What time of year is best to cut a stave? How long should I let it dry and cure before starting on it?

Also, have any of you ever shot a chokecherry bow? How did it shoot and feel? I'm greatful for your thoughts on this.

Thanks.
Del S.

[ozarkcherrybow1]

Hey Del, I've never worked with saplings, but with most woods, you can work them down to near bow diminsions and they can cure alot quicker. Just leave the limbs and tips a bit wider to minimize warpage. A white wood stave can be worked after about 3 months if it is stored in a dry area, but if you work it down to smaller dimensions, you can work on it after about 3 weeks.
 I take white woods in the summer and yeller woods in the dead of winter.  That being said, take them when ya can get them.
 Hope that helps a little. Keep us informed on your adventure.....Terry

[Pat B]

Good advice above. I would suggest you seal the back and ends if you peel the bark. This will prevent checking. I like spray shellac for this but others use carpenters glue.
   Whitewoods are easier to deal with if you cut them during the growing season. The bark peels off easily and whats under is the back of your bow. I would consider chokecherry to be a whitewood.  Pat