Author Topic: SOLID STEEL 2 & 3 blade glue on heads (Read 2663 times)

longbowjim · « **Reply #40 on:** January 18, 2009, 05:30:00 PM »

I wish that I could program for a round ferrule. It like I said. They aren't finished yet. When completely done you will be able to see your reflection in them. I like the idea of the onesies giveaway. As long as you dont lose it you should have it forever. I have plans to have one on an 800 grain footed shaft to zip out of a 65# osage curve. I have split a vertibrate with a grizzly head. I wish that I would've saved that piece of bone to show people. JD

Steve H. · « **Reply #41 on:** January 18, 2009, 05:41:00 PM »

BTW JD, I've got this purpleheart arrow (TradGanger Luke "The Ursus" Woodruff made with his Shaftshotrer) that is fletched RW....

leatherneck · « **Reply #42 on:** January 18, 2009, 05:48:00 PM »

Lets not be so critical of the ferrule until it is tested. Although the rounded Ashby ferrule appears to be a better concept, it is still too new to say it is the "cats meow". Maybe JD's design will slide right through as well. Remember, this is just the beginning stages. Give the guy a chance.
Like the Ashby reports, I for one await the results of the tests. Good job JD and thanks for the pics.

Mike

Charles Sorrells · « **Reply #43 on:** January 18, 2009, 06:57:00 PM »

I don't think there is any thing wrong with this ferrule design. It will lift and seperate tissue away from the blades and trailing shaft letting the arrow continue with less surface area drag. This same type of sharp apex ferrule was used by G5 on their Shakote' head. The rounded ferrule actually has more surface area and in theory therefore more drag. This one has only the apex to drag on and should not be a hinderance in any way.

I really like your design, craftsmanship, and thoughts put into this head. You are truly an artisan. I wish you well with these...for a lifetime.

Oliverstacy · « **Reply #44 on:** January 18, 2009, 11:06:00 PM »

I just got to look at them in person and all I can say is WOW!!!

JD was working on the tips and will post some pic's soon...they will be deadly that is for sure.

Hey JD...can't wait to stick a thunder chicken with one this spring, I'll even let you take the first shot.

Bring a back up arrow or two, accuracy by quantity!

By the way the ferrle is going to modified, the program will not allow him to round it while they're being cut out.

And they are sharp!

Steve O · « **Reply #45 on:** January 18, 2009, 11:06:00 PM »

Why not set the ferrule up with a RH bevel as well...more bang for your buck :D

Oliverstacy · « **Reply #46 on:** January 18, 2009, 11:10:00 PM »

I just got to look at them in person and all I can say is WOW!!!

JD was working on the tips and will post some pic's soon...they will be deadly that is for sure.

Hey JD...can't wait to stick a thunder chicken with one this spring, I'll even let you take the first shot.

Bring a back up arrow or two, accuracy by quantity!

By the way the ferrle is going to modified, the program will not allow him to round it while they're being cut out.

And they are sharp!

Josh

pete p · « **Reply #47 on:** January 19, 2009, 12:55:00 AM »

as long as the ferrule doesnt hinder getting a file on the cutting edge i dont see it as a problem. Like Charles said G5 incorporated an angled ferrule in the shakote design, common sense would dictate that less surface area would equal less drag?? as far as the tanto tip i will admit i am uneducated in the merrits of this design but i do know that i have shot several bear razor heads with "flat" tips like JD's head and i had no problem at all. tradgang is an awesome place to come and talk hunts, bows, gear or whatever...like leatherneck said lets not be so critical, give JD a chance, the head is in the infant stages. and as far as people whining about the price...who cares, JD said they arent for sale anyway. he is the one dealing with the cost and he is going to be nice enough to give some away!! when i get my hands on one (i will steal one from his quiver if need be) i will blow through a 260# whitetail...tanto tip or flat tip, angled ferrule or rounded. BAD A$$ head JD, keep it up.

longbowben · « **Reply #48 on:** January 19, 2009, 10:25:00 AM »

Nicely said pete,I want to get my hands on a 3 blade.

Talondale · « **Reply #49 on:** January 19, 2009, 10:35:00 AM »

Speaking of drag and surface area and non-production heads; has anyone ever tried adding dimples similar to golf balls to the surface of a head? The reason for the dimples on the golf balls is to reduce drag and improve distance. I wonder if similar dimples would reduce drag as the arrow is passing through flesh. A solid head like this one would be a good candidate because there's enough material for dimpling. It would also help with the weight. Just wondering?

longbowjim · « **Reply #50 on:** January 19, 2009, 12:21:00 PM »

Chuck- Maybe I will give the dimples a try. It would be a good way to reduce weight if I find them too heavy. They also use the dimples for road cycling helmets.

Once again, I'm flattered by the pm's, but they are not for sale. They are for fun. And because I have more time than money. I'm hoping that I will never have to buy broadheads again.
JD

Java Man · « **Reply #51 on:** January 19, 2009, 12:56:00 PM »

JD,

They would make a great St. Judes item.

Nice work.

Guru · « **Reply #52 on:** January 19, 2009, 01:03:00 PM »

JD, Awesome work!!

Incredible work!!

Oliverstacy · « **Reply #53 on:** January 19, 2009, 01:39:00 PM »

Dimples have been used on New Archery Products (Thunderhead) Crossfire three blade cartridge style broadheads.

Josh

BowHuntingFool · « **Reply #54 on:** January 19, 2009, 08:50:00 PM »

JD, looks like a pretty sweet broadhead. Looking forward to more pics!

longbowjim · « **Reply #55 on:** January 20, 2009, 12:22:00 AM »

To put the size into perspective here one is next to a 190 grain el grande Grizzly. I have also put a tanto tip on them. My wire machine won't do them for me(Same for a rounded ferrule). I finished programing and modifying my 3 blade program. As soon as I don't have any "rea;" work to do I will get cutting on it. I have the Stainless Steel to get rolling on those too.

tiur · « **Reply #56 on:** January 20, 2009, 07:36:00 AM »

nice u and v axis work, let me know if you need any sink edm for your 5 degree taper .
keep that 420 to max 52-54rc, got time check out the 300xtreem- morrison archery ( 700hrs of sink edm for 100 psc ) and people complain about cost?

ASL

Jason Lester · « **Reply #57 on:** January 20, 2009, 08:00:00 AM »

We work with a machine shop local to our company. I have been over and seen some of the machines. Its very cool what you can do with them. I'm envious as I'd love to play around with one and make a few things. Very cool BH can't wait to see them finished and on and arrow.

Another thought
If you have enough material when you drill in the taper for the arrow you could probably leave it straight so you don't have to taper your arrow. Just cut to lenght and insert. Probably not enough material though.

leatherneck · « **Reply #58 on:** January 20, 2009, 08:27:00 AM »

Love the tip JD. Keep the updates coming.

britts · « **Reply #59 on:** January 20, 2009, 09:53:00 AM »

That's a serious looking head, JD.


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Author Topic: SOLID STEEL 2 & 3 blade glue on heads (Read 2663 times)

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