What CX Heritage for my set up?

[toby]

I'm shooting a fairly high performance recurve at 48#'s and my dl is 30", so arrows will be about 31" finished. Fast flight string.

[M60gunner]

I would say CX250's. I draw 28", cut my shafts to 29". My bows are 55lbs. Bareshaft "straight as an arrow". A little heavy but great to 30yards.

[NDTerminator]

250's...

[Jack Whitmire Jr]

I think the 150 or 250 will be WAY too stiff unless you put 300-400 grains up front. I shoot a Schafer with CX 90's 175 grain point drawing 27" and 53# .

[snag]

If you go with the 250s you will need to put some weight upfront. I use 100gr adaptors along with 125gr tips. The 250 are equivalent 84# spine weight. The 150 are a like 64# spine weight.

[30coupe]

Is your bow 48# at your draw length or at 28"? That would make quite a difference (six pounds of draw or 54# bow. AT 48# you might get by with a 150 loaded fairly heavy. A lot depends on the bow and if it is cut to or past center.

[Otto]

I'm shooting 50#'s at 29" from all of my BW recurves.  I cut CX250's to 31 inches and they bareshaft perfectly out to 30 yds with 125 grains up front.

250's will not be too stiff.  Never underestimate the increased powerstroke from a long draw length.

[Greg Skinner]

I shoot 250's cut to 29 1/2 bop with 50 gr brass insert, 100 gr steel adaptor and 190 gr Ace or Grizzly, total weight about 700 gr. They fly extremely well out of 3 different bows: Liberty ELB 54# @27, Liberty Chief 52# @27 and a Moosejaw Elite 52# @27. Your draw weight is less than mine, but that extra 3 inches of draw more than makes up for it. I tried 150's and couldn't get them to fly well at all.  All 3 of these bows are cut close to center shot.

[toby]

The 48#'s is at my 30" dl.

That longer draw really seems to make a differnece.

I have always tended to need a little bit stiffer arrow, but am not familiar with the Heritage shafts. But, have heard good things about them.

I hunt elk and deer and would like to use the same shaft so I don't have to learn two different trajectory's.

[pseman]

You could go with either quite frankly. The 150s will require little weight up front and will probably weigh in ~500gr.

If you go with the 250s, then I think you will need 200+ grains up front and will probably have a finished weight closer to 600gr.

I would decide what type of finished arrow weight you want and pick the spine based on that.

[Shawn Leonard]

I have to agree with the 150s, you can shoot them with 145-175 grains up front. I shoot them out of my high performance recurves and cut them to 29.5"s and 175 up front. My bows are 52-54#s at my 28.5" draw. The 250 will most likely be too stiff unless ya went with 250 or more up front. If your bow is cut way past center it will shoot those 250s with less up front and flight may appear pretty good, but trust me they will be stiff. Shawn

[Mint]

I shoot 150's out of my 51 lb Predator recurve cut to 28" and with 200 grs up front. With my 55lb Palmer recurve I shoot the same arrows with a 125 gr point.

[Paul Mattson]

You can go with the 150's if shooting from a shelf, I shoot them from my 50# RER with 250 grns up front.  If you are shooting from a rest and can go with the 250's.

[toby]

I'll probably shoot from some sort of elevated rest.

Why can I shoot 250's if using an elevated rest?

[metsastaja]

I am just finishing up with the Heritage test kit.
I shoot a Crow Creek recurve 54@28. String is B-50 12 strand.  My draw is 29 and I shot off the shelf The Heritage 250 shafts are cut to 29 3/4".  Right now I have 125gn tips on both the bare and fletched arrows.  I am getting great flight and groups.

You might want to get a couple of 150's
I had a #45@28 I was shooting this summer and could not get the 250's to behave so switched over to woodies.

Take a look at the CX draw weight adjustment worksheet at their site it might help. It might help.
 http://www.carbonexpressarrows.com/techarrowselect.html

I did not use it but might give you some additional insight with selection.

[Cherokee Scout]

150s