How could CX 250's NOT be right for me?

[GMMAT]

Sold my longbow, last night, and I sold every arrow I had with it.  That's fine.  I was going to go to carbons next, anyways.

I've got a Dorado 50# recurve on order (DL is 28").  These arrows are rated for bows from 50-65#'s.

I don't know much about tuning tradional bows/arrows, but how could these arrows NOT be OK for me?  I'd like to shoot 125gr. BH's and shoot a 30" arrow (like I've been doing), but that isn't set in stone.

I just want to have arrows here when my bow gts here.

Any input?

Jeff

[dragon rider]

Jeff,

PM sent.

paul

[whitebuffalo]

I'm not a pro and still learning myself. But carbon is naturally a stiff arrow and takes a bit of weight up front to parodox away from your bow riser correctly. Might have to add some weight up front. Plus it will add some mass to your arrow too. you caan get brass or steel inserts to add some weight. Good luck..JB

[George D. Stout]

The 250's will be much too stiff at 30" with 125 grain point.  You may get away with the 150's because the Dorado is past center.  The 250's will have to have at least another 100 grains on the tip to work at 30".

[GMMAT]

I don't mind adding tip weight, at all!  I just need to know what I will need to have on hand to tune these.

What would you suggest?

Also....with the way the dorado is...could I not shoot it closer to center to offset the stiffness of the cx's?

[kingrider]

Definately go with 150's

[nontypical]

Jeff, carbons tend to be very stiff.I decided to try carbons myself.I shoot a 49-50# recurve.I was kinda suprised myself to find at my drawlength (29-29.5) that a fullength CX250 w/250 upfront was to stiff for me.Ended up with fine tuning a CX150 30.5" w/250 grns up front.And the arrow flys like a dart and hits hard(554grns) w/a 2 gpi tube,wrapped and 4-4" fletch.Hope this helps.  PETE

[BobW]

I'm shooting 250's full length out of a 56# bow and use 225 up front.... they are WAY too stiff for your set-up.... need more point weight.  Better to go 150's

[GMMAT]

11.1gpi x 30" = 333gr. + 11gr insert + 150gr tip = 500gr (by the time we add in a nock and feathers.

Even if I had to go with 175 gr. tips....what's the rub?  Can't I weaken the spine with more tip weight....and not have to drop to a lighter arrow?

I'm just asking, guys.  I can see the merit in the 150's in that I probably could set them up exactly like the legacy's I've been shooting (125gr. tip and 30").  I might could even shorten the 150s up, some????

Thanks.

[robtattoo]

I'm shooting full length 250s out of 61-63# bows at 30" draw & I still need 100gn inserts & 200gn points to get them weak enough!

To be honest Jeff, you would need probably 400gn+ upfront to get the 250s to fly.

Go with the 30" 150s with 200gn points & you should be somewhere near.

CX shafts are waaaaay stifer than you'd think

[George D. Stout]

Jeff.....You always weaken the spine with more point weight, but you can't always weaken it enough.  To get those 250s to work at 30" you are going to probably need 300 grains or more up front.  I don't know who did the spining on those shafts but they are not 50/65 with 125 points.  Play with one and see what it takes to get flight; we can guess all day here.  Order some heavy inserts and points so you can build up the weight.

[GMMAT]

OK....more I read....more it sounds like 150's are better suited for my setup.

So let's do the math.  10gpi X 30" (outside) = 300gr + 125gr tip = 425gr.

Now....

If I add a weight tube (let's say 3gpi) that'll get me up "close" to 525gr (incl. nock/insert/feathers).

How's THAT sound?

AND ...will the weight tubes affect spine (dynamic)?

Thanks for indulging me.

[Gordon martiniuk]

250s will work if left 31" 100gr brass insert and tip weight of 175 to to 300gr tips will give you a real good arrow 150 will tune with less tip weight but will give ou a lighter arrow combo

[BowHuntingFool]

Jeff, I'd go with more weight up front in the way of a brass insert, I honestly think you'll need it!

[GMMAT]

Gordon...

Thanks!  If I could...I'd like to utilize the 125gr heads I already have.  So...I'd mentioned getting to total 525 gr arrow weight with 3gpi weight tubes.  Would it hurt anything to go ahead with a 5gpi tube?  I could get "close" to 600gr. and still be shooting the 150's (which sound like they're going to be easier to tune) and still be shooting (hopefully) my 125gr. heads.

I'm trying to learn, guys!

[Otto]

Honestly, I've never figured out why so many folks have to stick a 5 lb. weight on the front of a carbon to make it fly.

I shoot 50#'s @ 29" out of every recurve I own.  31 inch long CX 250's with 125 up front fly perfectly for me.  And when I say perfect, I mean they bareshaft to point of aim at 30 yds.

I don't get it.  Am I the only one out there who doesn't have to front load a carbon arrow to make it fly????

[GMMAT]

You guys confuse the hell out of me....lol.

[xtrema312]

I think you are on the right track now.  I don't know about the weight tubes and spine.  I am new to the carbon arrow thing also.  However, if they don't weaken spine you may still need weight up front.  

I just got back from bare shafting new bow and arrows.  I am now at a 500(3555)spine carbon with 100 gr. inserts and 100 gr point and 30.5" arrow with 46# at 28" and pulling right about 28".  That looks to be very close to tuned. I need to test more to make sure. I kind of want to use 125 heads and my 50# limbs.  I am just guessing that I could end up someplace around a 30” arrow with the 125’s, 100 inserts, and 50# limbs.

[Hot Hap]

Don't forget the weight of your insert-nock-feathers. Hap

[BobW]

Slow down bud.  I don't have the charts, but the CX Heritage 250 is a 85-90# spine.  You are way off the charts in point weight to make it shoot.  Weight tubes will not do much of anything here to get where you need to be.  Unless you are into the EXTREME EFOC, and hence not going to use 125 heads, you are way too stiff.  Seriously, look at 150's.  You will be happier in the long run.