Author Topic: stepp ladder tree steps? (Read 659 times)

PATGUN · « **on:** March 09, 2009, 03:16:00 PM »

Is anyone familiar with 'stepp ladder' brand tree steps? I have a set and need to replace some of the ropes on them and haven't had any luck getting in touch with the manufacturer.

VTer · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2009, 04:04:00 PM »

I think they're out of business. Sometimes you see them in the classifides for sale.

Craig Warren · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2009, 06:12:00 PM »

I don't know if Jim is still making them anymore, but he is a really good guy and should be able to help you out.
The Stepp Ladder is a great product. It is all I ever use. I sure wish there was a way for Jim to continue in business with it.

Try this e-mail address:

Jim Stepp
E-mail Address(es):
[email protected]

metsastaja · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2009, 06:42:00 PM »

found this there was a step link that said go here.

Sppets International
247 Libby Road
P.O. Box 860
South Casco, Maine 04077

[email protected]

PATGUN · « **Reply #4 on:** March 09, 2009, 08:39:00 PM »

Thanks for the info guys. I'll try both E-mail addresses. The phone number I found is not connected anymore.

Dave Bulla · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2009, 03:05:00 AM »

I have a set and while I don't recall where the original paperwork is, I do remember that there was a sheet that had the info on it for the company Jim got the rope from. I remember it because I thought it was cool that he wasn't gonna try to sell "replacement" ropes and make money. He just provided the info to the company he got it from so the customer could buy direct from them.

I just did a couple searches on Google for camo rope, camoflage rope, camouflage rope and hollow camouflage rope and didn't find anything that looks like the Stepp Ladder stuff.

I would try contacting Dean Torges (He's a sponsor here, "The Bowyers Edge") Dean I believe was pretty good friends with Jim Stepp and often spoke highly of the Stepp Ladder system. He might still have the info on the rope.

p.s. If you do find the source, could you please post it back here or pm it to me? Some of mine are getting frayed.

Jeremy · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2009, 07:57:00 AM »

I taught a bowhunter ed course this weekend and we demo'd the stepp ladder (Jim took our course a few years ago - nice guy). Anyway, we had an arborist in the class this time and he said the rope was pretty low-end stuff.

Do a search for "hollow braid rope" or "hollow braid climbing rope" You can also try "hollow braid marine (or mooring) rope" Just did a quick web search and found 12 and 16 strand hollow braid rope in nearly every color of the rainbow... I'm sure with a little more searching you could find camo

Ray Hammond · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2009, 08:07:00 AM »

they're obsolete in a sense- rapid rails are lighter carry easier and you don't hve to learn a special knot and you put up 3 or 4 pieces instead of 12 to 15 pcs

joebuck · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2009, 09:06:00 AM »

I love my Steppladders to top off my stand. I use them exclusively for top steps around tree trunk for my Quidos Web setup. I put them up in july and they are very tight around tree by October. However they would be a pain for me to climb with. I'm still wondering why Jimm didn't use a 4 pt tree contact instead of his 3 contact. You have got to get the knot right and have it cam lock or they will twist..

PATGUN · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2009, 09:47:00 AM »

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE, I'M HOOKED UP NOW!

Dave Bulla · « **Reply #10 on:** March 11, 2009, 01:43:00 AM »

Joebuck,

I can't speak for Jim but to me, it's totally obvious why he used three point contact instead of four. Simply put, a three legged stool will sit solid on any surface. A four point will only sit solidly on a perfectly level surface. Last I looked, trees are kinda lumpy and curved.... :D If the steps had four feet, you could bet that 99% of the time, one of the feet would not be in contact with the tree. Then there is the weight difference that would come into play too.

I know what you mean about the steps sometimes twisting a bit but I usually only have that happen if I dont' have the tension right or if the bark is very deep grooved like say on a black locust. It also helps to make sure that the rope going around the tree is below the level of the top two feet before you cam it over. Makes for a stronger setup.

Ray, I have both the Stepps and rapid rails (Steel version) and while I admit they are faster to set up, they take up a lot more space and I can't get quite as high as I do with 12 steps. Of course, I seldom go very high but the point is I can if I need to due to terrain or something. What I've done a few times this past year is to take the rails and about 3 steps. The rails get me about the right hight but then I put up the stepps so that I have hand holds going to about shoulder hight as I'm standing on the platform. I'm not as agile as I used to be and I really like to have a good hand hold as I'm stepping on and off the treestand.

DAGATOR · « **Reply #11 on:** April 05, 2009, 09:27:00 PM »

Dave-
I finally located and bought a full set of the stepp. My bag did not have instructions inside. Can you describe the ropes position...does it start out on top or under the bar? Then the ratchet part...after the tied off end, should the pointed part at the bottom be off the tree kind of in the air till weight is applied? Or, will the pointed part ratchet down with pressure making it firm?
Clay

DDyer · « **Reply #12 on:** April 05, 2009, 10:11:00 PM »

If you have the original bag the steps came in there should be a diagram of the knot on the outside of the bag.You will want the bottom point firm in the tree before you climb or the top two will pull away from the tree allowing the step to twist some. Like Dave said you can get it to cam over and stay down if you have the rope around the tree slightly below the top two prongs.With practice you will be able to tie the knot in the dark and the steps will go up surprisingly quick.

DAGATOR · « **Reply #13 on:** April 05, 2009, 10:58:00 PM »

No problem with the knot. My biggest question is the "cam over" part. I have no instructions for this. Does one tie the knot while the step is upside down then cam it over?
Thanks,
Clay

Dave Bulla · « **Reply #14 on:** April 06, 2009, 12:01:00 AM »

Clay,

I'm not looking at mine at the moment but I'll try to go through it by memory.

To start, the steps go on with the curve towards the trunk, the two feet pointing down and the triangle point sticking out towards you.

You tie the knot in this position but not real tight. After you have tied the knot, grab the step by both sides and pull it straight up until the feet are about even with where the rope goes around the tree. I put both thumbs down towards the point and when the step is pulled up, cam it downwards by pushing on the point. If your tension is right, it will be a little difficult to cam it over and once it goes, it will snap down and really lock on tight.

The catch is, it does make a difference if the rope at the attach point is routed from behind the step or over the top and at the moment I can't remember for sure which way it goes. It think it goes over the top but not sure. If I get a chance, I'll try to take some step by step pics but it may be a while.

Dave Bulla · « **Reply #15 on:** April 06, 2009, 12:08:00 AM »

Just re read your post and it sounds like you are talking about the same thing... over the bar or under. I think it's over. But don't forget, the step is almost completely upside down and pointing away from the tree when you start the knot so the rope will be towards the tree until you cam the step down.

And no, the point should not be sticking out except during the install steps until you pull up on the step till the feet come up to the rope hight and cam it over. Be careful though, if you take out too much slack before caming the step, it is possible to bend the step by trying to force it to cam over. Experiment a bit. It's easiest on a smooth barked tree or even a utility pole.

DDyer · « **Reply #16 on:** April 06, 2009, 07:56:00 AM »

just went out and tried mine,then tried to describe it and confused myself wish I could do pics.

griz#1 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 06, 2009, 10:20:00 AM »

pat,will do my best to get you out of the woods in one piece.

DAGATOR · « **Reply #18 on:** April 06, 2009, 11:03:00 AM »

Thanks DDyer & Dave-
That is what I needed to know! I'm sure I can mannage from here. No need for pics.

Clay

joebuck · « **Reply #19 on:** September 02, 2009, 07:29:00 PM »

Dave..i had a welder spread my bottom point 2" into now a 4pt with an extra horizontal bar to secure the bottom point........Totally different stepp....So much much more secure in the tree. Simple Physics shows two contact points sturdier than one..I do not know about your hunting experience with the stepps but use them alot, a heck of alot going on 7 years. I have had stepps kick out..250# on the side of a stepp soft bark tree trunk does torque it out even on the tightest cam over torque..reason being is i'm swithcing from step to step sideways as i'm using them as a base. Jim Stepp looks like he weighs 140# in his video. I'm 250# with collard greens on my breath.. great idea but fully not finished IMO. thats why i went to 2 contact points..it digs in..Curve of tree trunk is not a factor....FYI


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