Author Topic: How to attach Damascus broadheads???? (Read 765 times)

snag · « **on:** March 12, 2009, 07:12:00 PM »

I have some wood shafts I want to put some hand-forged damascus broadheads on. The tang on the heads is just rectangle and about the diameter as the shafts. Should I cut some notches in the tang so when I insert it into the notch in the shaft and epoxy it will hold better???? I would appreciate any ones experienced help! Thanks. I don't want to mess these up! I have some synthetic sinew I was going to wrap them with after epoxying them.

Guru · « **Reply #1 on:** March 12, 2009, 07:30:00 PM »

Her's one I did for St. Jude 07...a Doug Campbell damascus trade point......slotted for the tang, super glue, and wrapped with artificial sinew.....

MJB · « **Reply #2 on:** March 12, 2009, 07:31:00 PM »

Curt,
That is OUTSTANDING

Danny Rowan · « **Reply #3 on:** March 12, 2009, 08:02:00 PM »

Yes, it is outstanding, and it is in my quiver. Next in line to kill something.LOL.

Danny

JEFF B · « **Reply #4 on:** March 12, 2009, 08:06:00 PM »

that is awesome!!!

MJB · « **Reply #5 on:** March 12, 2009, 08:36:00 PM »

Congrats Danny

razorsharptokill · « **Reply #6 on:** March 13, 2009, 03:24:00 AM »

Almost to pretty to shoot! Outstanding job on that one!

NorthernCaliforniaHunter · « **Reply #7 on:** March 13, 2009, 03:32:00 AM »

Really, too pretty to shoot! Wow. And I thought my Magnus Snuffers were sexy... :D

razorsharptokill · « **Reply #8 on:** March 13, 2009, 04:53:00 AM »

Almost looks like flattened copper wire wrapped!

Plumber · « **Reply #9 on:** March 13, 2009, 05:52:00 AM »

that is breath taking

trad_bowhunter1965 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 13, 2009, 08:50:00 AM »

That is awesome,

snag · « **Reply #11 on:** March 13, 2009, 09:22:00 AM »

Those are the heads Curt! Thanks for posting pics. Did you cut any slots in the tang itself to have more for the glue to adhere to? I have heard some knife makers do this with knives...? Did you super glue the sinew after it was wrapped also?

Guru · « **Reply #12 on:** March 13, 2009, 11:49:00 AM »

Thanx fellas

I couldn't think of anybody better to have that arrows.....Danny was very generous for the St. Jude kids

I didn't cut into the tang at all, but it sure couldn't hurt to do that to give the glue something to hold onto.

To be honest, I never thought anyone would hunt with it when I made it. But I'm sure glad Danny is going to do so. I can't wait to hear how things go!

If I was going to make them specifically for hunting. I would at least "ruff up" the tang and area to be glued. I would use epoxy after I got it to spin true. And yes I did coat the wrap with glue. I would probably wrap a little longer and also coat with epoxy.....

But there's guys that make a lot more primitive stuff than I do that would know more about making/hunting with arrows like these.

I have two more of those heads matched weight that I'm going to make up with snakeskin and hunt with. Just want to wait for the "right bow"...I'm thinking self bow, but I don't own one....But it'll happen!

snag · « **Reply #13 on:** March 13, 2009, 12:19:00 PM »

Thanks Curt! I have 6 of these that are within a few grains of 150grs. I have been developing my arrow building skills up to a point where I feel I can do justice to Doug's craftsmanship. I'm ready to jump into this project. I would like to put a couple on the wall and then hunt the others. I'm hoping to introduce one to a bull elk that gave me the slip last year!

Charlie Lamb · « **Reply #14 on:** March 13, 2009, 07:49:00 PM »

Well, I've got my own way of tying on trade points. Taper just like I was going to mount a broadhead with ferrule.
1. Hacksaw/bandsaw slot so that tang sits in shaft up to where the taper starts.

2.Rough up metal and clean with thinner. I've done them by drilling a couple of small holes in the tang, but don't think it's needed.

3. Attach with good clear epoxy... the stronger the better. Align everything and let the epoxy cure.

4. Clean up excess with file and sandpaper.

5. Wrap with cord or sinew. Real sinew holds like iron. Cover with super glue.

Charlie Lamb · « **Reply #15 on:** March 13, 2009, 07:51:00 PM »

By the way... that's a Doug Campbell trade point I had him make to my specs. Size and shape were taken from Pope's description in "Hunting With the Bow and Arrow".
Pope's favorite design.

snag · « **Reply #16 on:** March 13, 2009, 07:53:00 PM »

Charlie, that head looks wicked! Any recommendations on epoxy? I am assuming that you want to cut the slot against the grain too...?

Charlie Lamb · « **Reply #17 on:** March 13, 2009, 07:59:00 PM »

Actually I think it just depends on how you like the head to sit. I like 'em horizontal so the cut is with the grain. Not sure it matters that much.

I use Smooth On that I have on hand for bow making.

fido dog · « **Reply #18 on:** March 14, 2009, 02:01:00 AM »

I think trade syle points are AWESOME! One day I would like to have a nice set. I've hafted my stone and obsidian blades to bones in the same manner. It works great.

Walt Francis · « **Reply #19 on:** March 14, 2009, 09:30:00 AM »

Charlie and Curt, those are some nice looking arrows.

I used to mount my Doug Campbell points like Charlie and Curt until one turned sideways after hitting a rib while going through a deer. Like Curt, I used artificial sinew on that arrow. Now I drill a hole on both sides about 3/8”-1/2” above the tang and use back sinew threaded through the holes in addition to wrapping the tang, then seal with super glue. I haven’t had one fail doing it this way. Also, I use MT-13, which is made for metal to wood applications, instead of 2 ton Devcon epoxy.


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Author Topic: How to attach Damascus broadheads???? (Read 765 times)

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