Cresting Lines "Run"

[Mark-R]

I mask my arrows at 9" and spray a white crest.  Then mask and spray a red band.  Then mask and spray a black band inside the red band.  This gives me a white crest with a red/black/red band in front of the feathers.  This is done with Rustoleum enamel.

Then, to "hide" the masking lines I do thin lines of silver to seperate the red/black/red.  This is with Testors enamel model paint.

Finally I protect it with Rustoleum clear enamel.  Each color is done on different days to allow for complete drying.  However, the clear enamel makes the silver lines "run".  Any ideas on what I can do/use to not have the silver lines run?

Thanks,
Mark

[snag]

I think the testors is dissolving with because of the oil-based top coat. I use water-based for the cresting over Rustoleum crown and don't have this problem.

[Andrew Wesley]

the only thing i can think of is that there could be a difference between the testors enamel and the rustoleum which is making it run.

[Whip]

I do all of my cresting lines with the Testors paints and then coat them with 2 or 3 coats of water based poly before a final dip in clear.  Make sure to let things dry well in between and your problem will be solved.

[Plumber]

I think drying is one thing but cureing is another. when you allow the testors to cure it should not act this way .cure of course meaning dry longer it may take 2-3 days.

[Mark-R]

Sounds like I may have better luck with a water based protective coat.  Not sure what Rustoleum clear enamel is, but I'll find out and try a water based protector.

I have a "test" shaft that I practice on and I did notice a small difference in 24 and 36 hour drying times on the silver Testors.  I'm in no hurry so I'll give it 3 days min. with the silver and see how that works also.

Thanks for the help,
Mark

[SCATTERSHOT]

yep, the silver is "eating" the Rustoleum.

[Steertalker]

Mark,

Are you sure that the Rustoleum clear coat is enamel based?  Enamels, if I'm not mistaken are petroleum based, so you shouldn't have a problem with covering the Testors which is also petroleum based.  Now if your clear coat is lacquer base then you will have a problem if not done carefully.  Lacquers are "hot" and will eat into petroleum based paints.

I use pretty much the same proceedure as you described.  However, I use Krylon Fusion spray paint.  Then after cresting with the Testors I spray a VERY fine mist of Krylon clear lacquer over it all.  It is important that the first coat of clear be sprayed on very lightly so as not to make the Testors cresting lines run.  That first fine coat will set everything and then you can go back over it with a normal final coat of clear.

One other thing, it's important to keep your Testors cresting lines pretty thin.  By that I mean keeping the paint thin.  Thick paint will run much easier than thin.

This is what works for me.  You might want to give it a try.  Good luck!

Brett

[Jack Denbow]

Same as Whip here.
Jack

[dino]

I've been using Watco spray lacquer over my cresting.  Seals it in with a couple of quick coats.  Haven't had any compatability issues and no smearing or burning in targets. dino