Author Topic: AD Tradlights vs. Traditionals (Read 593 times)

ToxophilitePastor · « **on:** March 27, 2009, 01:02:00 PM »

I've gone back and looked at a number of posts on AD carbon shafts. Its seems as if the Tradlights break a lot more often than the Traditionals. Is this true or is it just a perception that I picked up in the posts? If it is true, should I go with the heavier shaft even though my bow would probably shoot the Tradlights better? I have a 60" MOAB that is 55# at my draw length of 27".

frassettor · « **Reply #1 on:** March 27, 2009, 01:08:00 PM »

I shoot the Traditionals out of a 58#, and a 62#longbow with no problems at all. I have them weighted up 360 gr up front. My friend shot one of my arrows and he shoots a 45# longbow. I havent seen the posts where "they break alot", Any concerns you may have contact Ted@raptor He is a sponsor here, he will be more then happy to talk with you about your questions, and concerns.

Terry Green · « **Reply #2 on:** March 27, 2009, 02:13:00 PM »

I never had any problems with the lites as they are the 1st ones I tried. Never broke a lot of them, however, I did switch to the Trad Heavies cause I wanted a heavier arrow. And so yes, more weight means more material, more material means more durability.

I don't see why you can't shoot the Trads out of that MOAB.

Ted Fry · « **Reply #3 on:** March 27, 2009, 02:57:00 PM »

Wall thickness is what makes the difference with all the Arrow Dynamics shafts , Trad lite is thinner wall than the Trad so yes it would be less durable but should not be an issue as even the Trad lites are tough. My choice for what you are shooting would be either the Trad or Hammerhead ( even tougher) All would fly fine from your setup , just have to decide the mass weight you want.

leatherneck · « **Reply #4 on:** March 27, 2009, 03:43:00 PM »

I shoot the Trad Lites out of a Morrison Shawnee 54@27 and can't seem to break em. I stump shoot all the time shooting rocks, stumps, etc. and have not broken any as of yet(about 1 1/2 years now). I had one broke when my partner shot it on the side while stumpin and another when I buried a BH in a tree and tried to twist it out. But I have never broke one shooting or hitting something. Most durable shaft I've shot to date.

Mike

joe skipp · « **Reply #5 on:** March 27, 2009, 04:50:00 PM »

Tradlites cut 29" with 225 FOC will work from your bow. I haven't had anyone complain about the Trad lites breaking compared to the Trad Heavies.

bayoulongbowman · « **Reply #6 on:** March 27, 2009, 05:08:00 PM »

I switched to nock adaptor for glue ons and that I like , dont break as many , other wise you will go through some arrow nock!!!!!!!!!!

leatherneck · « **Reply #7 on:** March 27, 2009, 11:14:00 PM »

I'll 2nd the nock adapters. I also use brass inserts on the business end. maybe this is why I never break them.

ToxophilitePastor · « **Reply #8 on:** March 28, 2009, 08:01:00 AM »

Thanks, I've learned a lot.

Paul Mattson · « **Reply #9 on:** March 28, 2009, 05:59:00 PM »

Here's an option that I will offering for the AD wood grain shafts. It's an aluminum collar that gets put on before the insert. This will help out on those hard hits.

Wannabe1 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 28, 2009, 07:34:00 PM »

I shoot the Trad Lites out of all my bows. I've lost a couple but have never broken one. If you don't need a real heavy arrow, you can't go wrong with the Lites.

amar911 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 28, 2009, 11:23:00 PM »

Paul,

That aluminum collar needs a taper on the back end too so we can pull it out of targets! I hate a flat shoulder on the rear of the arrow tip!!!! I have a bunch of AD Trad shafts that do not have the inserts glued in. I need to order some 100 grain brass inserts, and I would like to have the collars too if they were tapered at the rear end. Other than the taper issue, the collars look like a great idea.

Thanks,
Allan

Covey · « **Reply #12 on:** March 29, 2009, 12:48:00 AM »

I've been shooting the same dozen AD Trads for at least 2 years without a problem! 100 grn brass insert with 150 grn broadhead up front easton bushings with G nocks at the back, excellant shafts not a complaint!! Jason

Ted Fry · « **Reply #13 on:** March 29, 2009, 02:05:00 PM »

Badger , you can also make a collar out of a 2413 Easton aluminum arrow , this way you can cut different lengths to fit what you want for weight as well. Allan very easy to take a file or sandpaper and make a slight taper on the back of the collar

dino · « **Reply #14 on:** March 29, 2009, 05:41:00 PM »

I've been shooting the collars for a little while now and pull out of targets very easily. They are rounded over on the back edge and slide out nice. dino

Paul Mattson · « **Reply #15 on:** March 29, 2009, 10:13:00 PM »

These are machined collars, they have a shoulder on the inside that the shaft rest on. This helps to protect the shaft. It is not the same as using a piece of shaft. Allan, like dino said, they will pull out of a target easily.

amar911 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 29, 2009, 11:19:00 PM »

Thanks for the clarification on the rear of the collars!

Allan

Bowhuntah · « **Reply #17 on:** April 25, 2009, 03:51:00 PM »

What size brass adapters are you guys using for the tradlites? I got some 5/16 but they are too small.

Ted Fry · « **Reply #18 on:** April 25, 2009, 03:53:00 PM »

Only inserts made for the AD shafts will fit , sorry bowhuntah but you will have to get them from an AD dealer , happy to help you out as would any of the other dealers on here.

Bowhuntah · « **Reply #19 on:** April 25, 2009, 04:11:00 PM »

Is anybody using the steel to glue on kind?


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Author Topic: AD Tradlights vs. Traditionals (Read 593 times)

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